pinned barrel model 10

[halfded]

Had a guy offer me a S&W model 10 4" PINNED barrel for my ultra-lite Taurus 85.

Never heard anything about pinned barrels, is this a good thing or a bad thing? Had a 6" Model 10 a while back that I regret selling but didn't know much about it.

I am already familiar with the revolver pre-buy checklist, BTW.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

The barrel pin (as well as recessed chambers, which are not applicable to your revolver anyway) harks back to an era when there was more hand labor and craftsmanship in manufacturing a gun than there is now. It is not functionally any better than the crush-fitted barrels used afterward; you will never notice the difference when shooting it.

 

[Oro]

+1. It is more "symbolic" of older methods than useful in and of itself.

whether it's a good trade depends upon if you prefer that gun to the one you have, and the condition and originality of the gun you are trading for.

 

[Guillermo]

I would trade darned near any Taurus for an older Smith.

You can buy another Taurus just like the one you have. The Smith is a vanishing jewel.

 

[Old Fuff]

The main problem with the crush-fit barrels is that if you have to change or replace one it's a factory job. By reason of how it's fitted it only goes on once and that it.

There have been a few crush-fit barrels that came out of an alloy frame and went down range when guns were fired, but this rarely happens and does not seem to apply to steel frame model 10's.

The pin in the barrel is not particularly important, but it does speak to the quality of yesteryear that is no longer with us.

 

[MCgunner]

The pinned barrel thing came in handy for me when I had to have the barrel changed out on my M10 when the forcing cone cracked. Nothing's happened like that with my M85UL, but if it ever does, I reckon it'll take a trip to Taurus. I've had it about 14 years now.

M10s in good shape go for around 300 bucks down here and you can get a used M85 for cheaper. A new 85UL goes for something around 300-350 so I reckon, depending on condition, the trade would work money wise if you wanted to just buy a new 85 to replace the old one you traded. I don't know your situation, might not need the 85, but I would want another one were it me cause my 85 is one of my favorite carries.

 

[S&W-Keeper]

Swap quick,he may change his mind.

 

[MCgunner]

So, Fuff, if it's pinned, it's high quality? That's good to know. My Rossis are pinned. Hell, the .22 is "pinned and recessed".

 

[Old Fuff]

Ah... well... gee... gosh... weren't we discussing Smith & Wesson???

It's a matter of opinion, but mine is based on long experience. After World War One some of the "little perks" started to disappear from Smith & Wesson's revolvers. Nothing really important, but nice - if you know what I mean.

During the Great Depression this trend slowed, but it slowly picked up again following World War Two, and went to high speed during the 1990’s to present. If you take a current gun apart and compare the innards and internal machine work to those that were made during earlier times the difference is obvious, and becomes more so as you go backwards in time.

As noted, a pinned barrel in itself is meaningless, as is for example the 4th screw that used to be at the top/rear of the sideplate, or the 5th screw in front of trigger guard that blocked the coil spring and plunger that used to tension the cylinder stop.

Now these missing features don’t mean that later production was junk – which it wasn’t and isn’t – but they are an indicator of reduced quality. I would be more interested in the serial number on a particular gun because it’s a rough indicator showing when it was made then the pin in the barrel, if there is one. But on the other hand if I’m looking at two identical revolvers (or mostly so) I will likely pick the one that’s pinned and I’ll very likely pass on anything that has a two-piece barrel. Others of course can make their own choice, and I sure hope they pick the latest one…

What the heck is is a Rossis???

 

[halfded]

Meeting up for the trade tomorrow. THe guy I'm getting it from doesn't know much about it's history except that it's ex Chicago P.D. Does Smith and Wesson have a feature on their site you can search serial numbers for age and other info? He says that the bore is nice and bright, lock up is tight, and the rifling is in good shape. He's had it for at least 16 years and hasn't shot it much. Are the Model 10's +p rated?

 

[AZ Desertrat]

Good luck.....Model 10's are all a good thing.....enjoy!!

 

[BCRider]

Trade before he changes his mind. And if this is mostly a range toy get a Wolff spring kit for it pronto. Install and enjoy the heavenly bliss of the wondrous trigger pull.

If it's an SD gun then you may want to think twice about the reduced trigger pull or at least use something other than the light trigger return block spring just so there's a millisecond extra to change your mind.......

I just got my own Mod 10/6" recently and installed the last of my three Wolff kits. I also reshaped the target grips and plan on doing some more reshaping based on some pictures I've seen. I'll be using it for some Speed Steel target matches as well as PPC if I get out to any of them. I've got a Model 19 but the 10 is quickly moving the 19 over in my heart and taking up more of the blankets....

 

[MCgunner]

I never messed with my hammer spring. The model 10, as is, has a wonderfully smooth trigger. So it's a little heavy, no biggy, it's smooth and big plus, it always goes bang. 10s are quite accurate revolvers, too, and many a PPC match revolver was built on a M10. I'll never let mine out of my possession, won't loan it out, nope, not my M10. You can borrow my Rossi if you have to have a good revolver for a bit.

I had a 19. I don't know that I care much for K frames in .357. I don't think the K frame is the frame for the magnum. The gun didn't shoot well with .38s and many a forcing cone has been destroyed by shooting a steady diet of hot magnums in a K frame. Hell, I cracked the forcing cone on the 10 shooting .38s! Which reminds me, keep the forcing cone clean of lead if you're shooting mostly lead bullets. Lead build up is hard on it. It stresses at the flat part at the bottom of the forcing cone. It WILL crack, not something I just read about.