ny32182
Member
Currently I don't sort my pistol brass. Do you think I would see any significant accuracy difference if I did, out of stock service type pistols?
Pistol brass... worth sorting?
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Maybe, maybe not.
All brass is not the same.
Some will have less powder capacity then others, differances in extractor groove dimensions, maybe even neck thickness, etc.
See this thread about a hair-pulling experiance I had with different brands of mixed .38 Spl brass:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=6966298&postcount=1
rc
All brass is not the same.
Some will have less powder capacity then others, differances in extractor groove dimensions, maybe even neck thickness, etc.
See this thread about a hair-pulling experiance I had with different brands of mixed .38 Spl brass:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=6966298&postcount=1
rc
ny32182
Member
I've noticed exactly the kind of differences you mention rc.
I guess I could test it myself, but if the consensus here is "meh", I probably won't bother since I'm not doing bullseye shooting anyway.
I guess I could test it myself, but if the consensus here is "meh", I probably won't bother since I'm not doing bullseye shooting anyway.
243winxb
Member
I would guess not worth your time. Brass with the same headstamp made on a different day/machine will be different from lot to lot. Testing is the only way to know. New brass of the same lot is more accurate than range bass. But your firearm has to be match grade.
Some are more accurate then other. Test fired 3 S&W 645's against each other, 1 was/is very accurate.
I started out sorting, but I stopped.
I thought I could sort it once, then keep my brass separated. But unless you have enough of one headstamp for all your reloads and your own private range, it doesn't work like that.
I only sort my revolver brass. And when I shoot factory ammo, I sort out the once-fire cases if they're a unique primer color or headstamp.
I thought I could sort it once, then keep my brass separated. But unless you have enough of one headstamp for all your reloads and your own private range, it doesn't work like that.
I only sort my revolver brass. And when I shoot factory ammo, I sort out the once-fire cases if they're a unique primer color or headstamp.
Funshooter45
Member
For the most part, I don't sort it. Although I typically keep in reserve a supply of 50-75 extra-special cases for my 357 and 44 mag revolver loads. They are all out of one batch of brass and I use them for the hottest loads. For the mild plinking loads, I don't worry about it.
Damon555
Member
no need to sort if you keep your loads on the lighter side.
Arkansas Paul
Member
Me too. I'm not good enough to tell any difference.
stork
Member
25 yards and under, no.
50 yards, sometimes.
over 50 yards, yes.
This from the perspective of shooting highly accurate customized 1911 bullseye guns. For my stock 1911's, there isn't any improvement to be had.
FWIW
50 yards, sometimes.
over 50 yards, yes.
This from the perspective of shooting highly accurate customized 1911 bullseye guns. For my stock 1911's, there isn't any improvement to be had.
FWIW
RustyFN
Member
And you would have to be good enough to be able to see the difference, that would leave me out.
BeerSleeper
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I sort it, because I like it that way.
I use the different brass to differentiate different loads. I've got some 115gr FMJs loaded over 231 in winchester brass, and the same bullet loaded over power pistol in remingtion brass. They're all in labeled boxes for primary identification, but this lets me know immediately what is in the magazines three weeks later when I can't remember what I last loaded them with.
I use the different brass to differentiate different loads. I've got some 115gr FMJs loaded over 231 in winchester brass, and the same bullet loaded over power pistol in remingtion brass. They're all in labeled boxes for primary identification, but this lets me know immediately what is in the magazines three weeks later when I can't remember what I last loaded them with.
1SOW
Member
Rusty FN:
Me too-----but:
I use a turret press to reload and find a 'distinct' difference in the lever 'pull' with different headstamped 9mm cases.
ATK (Fed, CCI, Blazer, Speer and a few others) cases are 'softer' than Win, PPU and R&P cases. If I use the same pull after loading 10 WIN cases on a FED case, it'll seat at least .004 deeper on my press.
As long as I load cases with a "similar" 'hardness, all are consistent.
I expect a progressive press wouldn't vary near as much.
YMMV
And you would have to be good enough to be able to see the difference, that would leave me out.
Me too-----but:
I use a turret press to reload and find a 'distinct' difference in the lever 'pull' with different headstamped 9mm cases.
ATK (Fed, CCI, Blazer, Speer and a few others) cases are 'softer' than Win, PPU and R&P cases. If I use the same pull after loading 10 WIN cases on a FED case, it'll seat at least .004 deeper on my press.
As long as I load cases with a "similar" 'hardness, all are consistent.
I expect a progressive press wouldn't vary near as much.
YMMV
Hondo 60
Member
I keep my brass sorted by headstamp & number of firings.
But sometimes the stuff that's been fired 5 times gets mixed in with stuff that's been fired 7 or 8 or 9 times.
(revolver brass)
But sometimes the stuff that's been fired 5 times gets mixed in with stuff that's been fired 7 or 8 or 9 times.
(revolver brass)
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