Pistol Range in the Basement

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Another thing to consider is if in a residential zoned area would shooting be allowed in an occupied dwelling. There are many strange laws on the books.
 
As an industrial hyginest and a shooter I've though 'bout this from time to time.

Granulated rubber berm material will prevent most of the problems associated with lead bullets striking armor plate. No fracturing or ricochets. http://www.duelatron.com/granulated.shtml

Enough ventilation to move air from the shooting positon directly to an exhaust point you will also remove most of the contaminants generated there as well. Think of air returns overhead pulling air from right in front of you so that smoke moves directly toward the intake. A stack exhaust and blower that allows the exhaust to be blown upward positioned high up as possible on your house will prevent point contamination of the outside that could represent a hazard to children. If you prefer, you could use a P95 or HEPA filter system to trap the lead and other contaminant particles. Remember to wet or spray with something tacky (cheap spray paint, spray adhesive, or hairspray) that will lock the loose particles onto the filter, wear gloves when changing, and to seal in a garbage bag before throwing into the trash.

All surfaces should be sealed so that they can be wet wiped/mopped with a trisodium phosphate (TSP) detergent. Disposable wipping/mopping material should be used and tossed in a plastic garbage bag and into the garbage. Never sweep or vacuum (unless you want to pay for a lead abatement vac).

Carpet should not be used. Epoxy sealed concrete would be best. Rubber mats could be placed on the concrete for comfort. These should be washed down from time to time.

LeadCheck swabs (http://www.leadcheck.com/LeadCheckSwab.shtml) are a color indicating lead suface contaminant indicator and should be used on a regular basis to verify that the anti-contamination systems are effective. Galson labs can send air sampling pumps and media for air sampling and this costs less than $100 for the materials and ananlysis.

Anticontamination step-off pads (http://www.frhamsafety.com/nuclear/stepoff/pads.htm) should be placed at the exit so that contaminants are not tracked into the house.
 
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That is ludicrously expensive, but how large was that range? And how many people were going to be using it and how frequently? Not to say it still wouldn't be expensive to do it at home, but a one or 2 lane range used by a guy and maybe his buddies is going to require much less maintence than one used by a Guard unit, which would lead me to assume it's a pretty big range.
25 meter, 4 or 5 lanes.
Rarely used.
It wasn't the size, it was the specialized equipment they have to use to clean the place.
 
Here is a guy with an outdoor range and his insurance company dropped him.

http://www.scfirearms.org/Merchants/StateFarm/

The first rule of insurance is never pay out. Now here is a scary thought for renters. I own one gun(for now) and just brought reloading equiment. If my landlord's insurance company found out that one of his tendents own guns and or(even more likely) reloads ammo, could he be dropped?

-Bill
 
I intend to build an indoor pistol range in the near future, too. I have to finish remodeling my house and get it sold or rented, so I can buy my next one. The one I'm going to buy has a 1200 sq. ft. shop. I have to replace the roof anyway, so I'm planning to add 10 ft. to each side. One side will be left open as a shed, and the other side will be blocked in as a range. A strong fan would keep the airborn particles down, and it's also separated from the house. At least, that's the plan.:D
 
The solution is really very simple.

Shoot only lead free ammo such as WinClean.

The primers are lead free, and the bullets are either totally encased or made entirely of a non-lead metal.

BTW, the primer only plastic/rubber ammo is not necessarily lead free. A good bit, if not the majority, of surface contamination and inhalation danger from lead is FROM THE PRIMERS NOT THE BULLETS.
 
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