Plated or non, a big diff in leading?

[Thirties]

Is there a substantial difference in barrel leading between plated wadcutters (for example Berry) and the lubed, non-plated wadcutters (for example Hornady)?

Thanks for your replies . . .

 

[Kamicosmos]

I'm not familier with the bullets you're talking about, but any plated bullet, by nature, will lead less than a non-plated bullet.

Unless I'm misunderstanding something here...

 

[444]

There are many factors that contribute to barrel leading. If you have barrel leading, you are doing something wrong. Since you are buying the cast bullets you will have no control over their size, or the lubricant used which are two huge factors in barrel leading.
You don't give enough information to answer the question, but by their very nature plated bullets are less likely to lead since no lead is in contract with the barrel.

That being said, copper plated bullets will still foul the bore only with copper instead of lead.

I personally dispise plated bullets.

 

[Zak Smith]

Copper plated bullets will not "lead" like lead bullets do, as long as you keep the velocity below the level where the plating stripped off. The bullet manufacturer should be able to tell you how fas this is.
-z

 

[MoNsTeR]

Plated bullets deposit ZERO lead at reasonable velocities. I've had fairly good results with Rainier's 148gr DEWCs.

 

[Black Snowman]

Plated bullets will generally foul a barrel less than a lead bullet but neither will be happy with high pressures. Treat plated bullets as lead bullets for loading data and you normally won't have a problem.

I've used plated bullets extensively in my .40 S&W with target loads (IE not max) with excelent results out of my Glock 24P. I've since switched to Star FMJ bullets for about the same price and gotten just as good of results and with the bullet weight I want.

For something like .38 Special loads I think the main advantage of a plated bullet would be less airborne lead at the range rather than reduced barrel fouling.

 

[HSMITH]

Plated bullets are EXTREMELY soft. They will not take much pressure as already mentioned, and they also won't take much crimp either before the plating is damaged to the point where leading is an issue again. Loading plated bullets is different than jacketed or cast. I much prefer cast bullets over plated bullets. Leading is easy to control and not a big deal if you do get some leading.

 

[Sheldon]

Something to keep in mind is that Speer and a lot of the big name companies out there sell SWAGED lead bullets which are softer than hardcast lead bullets. They are made for target (low) velocities.

I shoot mostly hardcast lead bullets and have no excessive leading problems. You might get a little bit of lead in the barrel, but it should not be getting worse as you shoot. The lead is cheapest, so if you can get over the hopefully small amount of leading it will save you in the long run. It is a bit dirtier and generates more smoke as well. I know my light 38 spl. loads would really smoke an indoor range up pretty good!!

 

[Tony Z]

I stopped using Laser Cast lead bullet years ago after trying West Coast Plated bullets, they have made exellent target loads and as the copper coating is pure copper, what little copper fouling there is, is easy to remove.

About a year ago I found an even better bullet that causes no fouling and its not copper plated, but has unique dry-lube formula covering the match grade bullets. Here is the linkPrecision Bullet these bullets are the most accurate I have used, I belive anyone that tries them will stay with them.


Tony Z

 

[larryw]

Given your two examples, the Berry's will probably lead more. Stick with West Coast Bullets for plated: very hard core and thick plating. Berry's leaded my USP and 1911 bores something terrible, WCB zero.

As already stated, leading is a function of velocity and lube.

 

[Thirties]

I need .314" bullets for my .32H&Rmag revolver, and most of these smaller companies like West Coast don't make .32 caliber stuff. I'm now using Hornady, and I'll be trying Speer later. The Berry's I use are .312 and they go in my Russian Nagant.

I'm not having a leading problem, folks. I was just asking if there is a BIG difference in barrel leading between plated and non-plated wadcutter bullets.

So far, I've not seen any difference.

 

[P95Carry]

Doubt the difference is BIG ........ but probably significant/noticeable.

I would pwersonally stay away from ANY swaged lead bullets .. plated or not. Hardcast are the way to go for me....... my own! Often with gas checks.

 

[Sheldon]

At the typical velocities that the wadcutters are used you probably will see no difference as long as your bore is fairly smooth. If you were to increase the velocity you might start to see leading in the lead bullet, but not in the plated. The plated should not lead at all as there is no lead exposed. I have heard that some plated bullets can lose there jacket when loaded to extreme velocities or when the plating is damaged in the reloading process (as in too much of a crimp), but I think that is usually after it leaves the barrel, so it still should not cause a leading issue. If the plating to crimped on too much it will cause the plating to break away from the lead core and when weakened like that the substantial centrifigul forces on the bullet as it leaves the barrel will rip the plating off the bullet.

 

[MoNsTeR]

I suppose everyone has their own perspective and experience, but I for one HAVE seen a BIG difference. For me, D&J and Laser Cast lead a whole bunch, Speer, Hornady, and Remington swaged bullets lead significantly, and all three brands of plated bullets have never leaded a single atom so far as I can tell. All at velocities below 900fps (though I've loaded plated up to around 1200). From where I sit, if you load lead bullets and don't get leading you must be magic, and if you load plated bullets and do get leading you must be cursed.

 

[444]

"if you load lead bullets and don't get leading you must be magic, and if you load plated bullets and do get leading you must be cursed."

No, you either understand the ins and the outs of lead bullets or you are lucky. The first group of people understand what causes leading and one by one eliminate those causes. The second group of people just buy commerical cast bullets with no regard to anything and shoot them with no problems. Keep in mind that there are tens of thousands of shooters out there shooting lead bullets. There are many thousands of people casting bullets at home. There are plenty of them shooting cast lead bullets in centerfire rifles and have no problems. Obviously, if you are shooting them out of a relatively low velocity pistol and are having problems, you need to re-evaluate what you are doing wrong or just stay away from them. This of course is not to mention that if you are using the right tools, leading is not a significant problem. I am currently working with a .45 Colt Ruger Blackhawk that is leading. But, I have a Lewis Lead Revmover and can remove the lead in less than one minute no matter how bad it is. I can currently evaluating why I am getting leading and will, shortly have the problem solved. I regularly shoot cast lead bullets out of my Super Blackhawk using max loads and get very little leading. I am talking about shooting a couple hundred rounds and having the bore clean with one pass of the Lewis Lead Remover. If I tone down the loads just a little, there is no leading at all. I shoot thousands of .38s and .357 cast loads every year and have no problems at all-zero.
And if you get leading with plated bullets, you are doing something seriously wrong, or have a significant problem because there is no lead exposed. If there is no exposed lead coming in contract with the barrel, it would be mighty hard to get leading. This isn't magic, this is common sense.

 

[Tony Z]

Just a follow up.

I dont like working with lead bullets because lead its quite toxic. This is the main reason I mostly stay away from lead. Especially since I shoot mostly indoors.

Just a heads up.

Tony Z

 

[Nero Steptoe]

West Coast Plated bullets are loaded to jacketed, not lead, reloading specs.

Beware of so-called "plated" bullets from National Bullet Company. They're not plated, they're copper washed and will lead your barrels terribly.