Please help - ceracote job gone wrong?

[ahtoxa]

I seem to have an issue with a ceracote job. It was done by a well-regarded local place exactly one week ago.

They are aware of the issue, so I'm going there tomorrow to have it looked at.

Can you guys tell me, in your opinion on what may have caused the issue? I would like to be more knowledgeable when I talk to them tomorrow. Any questions that I need to ask in regards to the process/issue?

There seems to be excessive wear on the front corners of the slide. Seems to happen on the leather side and kydex side.









This one is for comparison. It was taken the same day the job was done.

 

[Drail]

That gun has either been in and out of a holster a few times or been slid around on a gritty work bench. Could be bad prep work before it was done. If the gun came out of the box "unused" looking like that I would probably lodge a complaint. In my experience none of the spray on shake and bake finishes are as durable as they claim to be. Parkerizing and hard chrome are the most durable finishes.

 

[ahtoxa]

Everything gets worn, but this is after 15 hours max of being in a holster? I wear the gun maybe 2-3 hours a day because I can't wear it at work. I have not even practiced presentation with this finish yet...

I have read peoples reviews in cerakote and how durable it is for them in and out of holsters for years. But a week later?

 

[ahtoxa]

Also, no sliding around on work benches. Gun rests on wooden table top when out of holster. I would say that it's been in/out of the holster a total of 14 times. Once when put on and once when taken out. 2 times a day total for 7 days.

 

[rcmodel]

Cerocoat is paint.

Paint is paint, and is subject to holster wear just like any other paint finish.
But it should last longer then that.

Perhaps it was poor surface prep?
Doesn't look properly sand blasted to me?

Perhaps it was insufficient baking curing time in the oven?

Did they do it like this?
Or in the back room of the gun emporium with an air-brush & a garage sale toaster oven?

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/resource/faq/

rc

 

[bainter1212]

I haven't had Cerakote done because I know that not all shops do a proper prep job. I saw an "American Guns" episode recently where a lady wanted a pink gun. The guys did no blasting or parking, they just hung up the gun from a wire and airbrushed it.
Having refinished a firearm (using Jon Norrell's Moly Resin) I know firsthand how daunting and time consuming proper prep can be. It should take a few HOURS to prep the gun.

 

[Blue68f100]

Cerakote is normally very durable. My Kimber show very little wear after 3yrs. Did they do the air dry or bake? The air dry takes over 7days till it's fully cured. It's possible that they did not get the mix right.

 

[Drail]

There appears to be quite a lot of pitting under the finish (or maybe it's in the finish). Looks like an Earl Scheib $99 paint job. As RC stated - "paint is paint". I tried shake and bake on exactly one gun and I'll never waste my time or money on it again.

 

[MarshallDodge]

According to the local gunsmith that does a lot of Cerakote work, he recommends letting the gun sit for a month after applying the finish for the best cure.

If you picked it up the same day it was applied and put it in your holster then I would think that the finish was still not fully cured.

Like rcmodel said, Cerakote is paint. Sure it is tougher than your average paint but it is not going to hold up like Tenifer, Melonite, or hard chrome.

 

[ahtoxa]

Cerakote is normally very durable. My Kimber show very little wear after 3yrs. Did they do the air dry or bake? The air dry takes over 7days till it's fully cured. It's possible that they did not get the mix right.

It was baked.

 

[ahtoxa]

I appreciate all the additional responses, thank you. I am surprised to hear the recommendation of sitting a month after oven-curing. I didn't get that indication during my search. Those that had their EDC guns coated carried same day with no issues.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Agree that it's pitting. They didn't remove the pits before painting.

 

[NCsmitty]

It certainly appears to be a pitted or marred surface that was not addressed prior to coating. It's also possible that we're seeing the result of tiny air bubbles in the mix that didn't smooth out.
Surface prep is everything. It should be fixable with a little attention and elbow grease and a re-coat.


NCsmitty

 

[carbine85]

My brother carries a Polish 9mm that's a baked finish and it hasn't worn like that. I just sold an AK that I refinished with a baked finish several years ago and it didn't show any wear.
I'm guessing it wasn't prepped probably or applied properly. Once the parts are baked and cooled down it should be ready to go. I don't think the is a month long curing period required, at least it's not in the instructions that I can see. That's what the baking does.

 

[BBBBill]

Improper prep work. The surface must be blasted to remove all traces of the old finish and provide the "tooth" to allow the new finish to bond. Thorough cleaning and degreasing. Parkerizing is highly recommended for carbon steel surfaces, but it must have the freshly blasted surface at minimum. Another thorough cleaning and degreasing. Handle with clean gloves to avoid contamination. Proper mix of the product. Proper application rate with the right spray gun. Curing per directions. All necessary to get a good final product. Looks like at least a couple of those steps were skipped.