Please help with a Savage single shot 22 scope mount

[tundrawolf]

When I was very young my father gave me a Savage model 72 single shot rifle. It is a reproduction of the Stevens Favorite rifle in .22LR. It didn't shoot straight at all, because I later found out the plastic front sight was wobbling around inside the dovetail.

I have spent almost a year refinishing the stock in Tru-Oil and it has turned out superb (But not as durable as I was hoping, I was warned about that though).

Now, I want to fit a powerful scope to the rifle because the farther out I can reach, the happier I am.

I sent it in to a reputable gunsmith who gave it back to me with this design:









The set screw on the end of the mount doesn't go into the barrel, it just rests against the barrel.

It seems to work OK, I fitted a fixed 4x to it, and one day discovered the mount was loose. I don't remember bumping it.

With the larger scope mounted to it it really makes me question the sturdiness of the mount.

I need to know, is there someone out there who sells a mount for this rifle?

 

[sappyg]

i checked Midway, Brownell's and J&P and had no luck. i couldn't find any reference of this rifle ever having a specific mount for it. the one (mount) your GS put on looks pretty functional. have you tried a little loctite on the threads? that might help.

 

[BrocLuno]

That's a tough one. The center to center distance between the rear screws is so short that it will not offer good durable alignment. You have a system of levers at work here - the weaver rail is about 5 times the screw center distance, and then the scope is about 4 times the rail length meaning that every time you bump the scope, it's a 20 to 1 ratio trying to torque the screws loose and shifting things around

I think id see if anyone can make a barrel block like they used to use on Unertil scopes - the ones that mounted on the barrel in front and the receiver of rear of the barrel with a recoil spring. Someone may have a barrel block for an octagonal? If not, you local machine shop can knock one out pretty easily. That black could go down with sight screws into the barrel, or it could be epoxied in place as a saddle over the barrel with JB Weld. Then that front screw on the weaver rail could be attached to block and you'd be about 4 or 5 times more secure

If you want to try to make the true oil surface a bit more durable, you can put a coat of Helmsman Spray Spar Varnish (I like matte) over the True Oil. It works quite well and leaves a silky nice finish that is a bit harder and more durable. But, if you really scratch it, you'll have a tougher time blending the repair. One of the biggest advantages of True Oil is ability to rub in a a patch if need be

 

[tundrawolf]

We both loctited the threads. I am thinking about another two screws to steady things up, there's just enough room to do that.

Also, I was thinking about maybe a sort of hex piece that can clamp around the barrel, and then be tapped and threaded for a screw to stabilize the end of the mount. The problem is finding a female hex piece that will fit my barrel.

Edit:BrocLuno we are on the same wavelength. I'd have to machine a groove in the foregrip, but that is a small price to pay for durability. A barrel lock plus an additional two screws in the receiver I believe will make the whole thing extremely durable in the event the rifle is to be used as a true survival rifle.

Now to find a hexagonal barrel lock. I may contract a machine shop for it.

The barrel dimensions are: .630"x.620"x.630"

 

[tundrawolf]

Does anyone have any idea what a machine shop might charge to make a part like this?

 

[BrocLuno]

I'm guessing it would be in the $80 range.

But I think you could get a small rectangular barrel block to just fill in from the top flat to the bottom of the Weaver rail for much less. Any good machine shop could make that for $20 or so out of steel. Two holes for mounting screws tapped into the barrel (you have lots of metal - look at the dovetail for the iron sight) and one for a screw down from the scope rail and you are good to go. Maybe another $25 for holes and tapping? Nothing sticking out or messing with the stock, or anything. Very traditional

Then some Ospho Blue to get some color onto it and you'd think it was original

 

[tundrawolf]

A great idea. Thanks for your help!

 

[788Ham]

tundrawolf,

What isn't to like about the finish you put on the stock? Durability? I just refinished the stock on a Remington #33 .22 rifle a week ago, I'd used Boiled Linseed Oil. I put about 8 coats of the BLO on it, letting it totally dry between coats, then using 0000 steel wool to lightly rub down before adding another coat. One responder on this forum told me about using bronze wool, I guess it gives a smoother finish? over the steel. Then, if you're of a mind to, or want a softer satin finish, get some "rottenstone" and a felt pad and smooth the finish this way. I got the rottenstone from Brownnells, if you're not familiar with it, its like powdered sugar, that fine, put into an old salt shaker. Use a soft felt pad, dab lightly into the BLO, then apply the RS on the felt pad and rub "lightly" over the finish on the stock. This will abrade the finished BLO, leaving the satin look, if not your style, rub it out with a soft cotton towel for the shinier finish. I was very pleased with the finished look.

 

[tundrawolf]

Oh no, don't get me wrong, I love the finish. I think it is beautiful. But the first day I took it out after finishing it for almost a year, it got scratched to heck via the sling I put on it. Not that it is underly durable, but all the scratches show. However, I am not being realistic in wanting such a beautiful finish to be durable in a rifle that I will be taking everywhere with me in the desert. Hiking, backpacking, riding, everything, the rifle will be with me. But it's worth it. When I find that I cannot stand it I will put another coat of Tru-Oil on it to cover up any scratches.