Polish, wax, oil-Protecting the finish

[Bravo11]

I've see a few threads discussing using polishes or wax on their handguns.
I'm wanting to protect the finishes on my handguns from the wear that can come from daily in and out of leather holsters.
I have a Govt 1911 with a satin blued steel finish and a Sig with the Nitron finish. Both holsters are pancake style and are pretty tight. I usually wipe the guns down in morning before holstering them with CLP or Rem oil.

 

[sgt127]

You will be hard pressed to protect the finish from holster wear. The actual physical rubbing will take off most anything you can put on the surface. Hard chrome will last as long as anything, but, it too will get shiney spots.

Holster wear is a sign of a used gun, used by a SHOOTER. Its a sign of honor.

 

[Standing Wolf]

As far as I'm concerned, only carry guns belong in holsters, and I expect them to show signs of it within a few days, too.

 

[CWL]

You may also want to try using a silicone-impregnated cloth for your rubdowns. As it comes off and soaks into the leather, silicone will also treat the leather and displace any moisture in the leather.

But I also like some leatherwear 'charachter' in my pistols.

 

[GeorgeH]

Here is what I do.

On a blued gun, use Renaissance Wax. You use a small small amount--just enough to see the dull shine on an unbuffed wax, then buff it out to a high gloss. Then put on a very thin layer of oil.

Renaissance Wax is great stuff. You can use it on anything. On a blued handgun it will protect the gun from holster wear, if you apply it frequently. But holster wear will occur. You can slow it down, but you will not prevent it.

Renaissance Wax is expensive for a wax, but you use so little of it, a tin lasts for years.

Some of my favorite maintaince items are: Renaissance Wax, Flitz Polish (the paste), Gibbs oil, Militec-1.

 

[SelfProclaimedExpert]

then buff it out to a high gloss. Then put on a very thin layer of wax.

George, am I understanding right; wax, then wax?


Also, does anyone advocate degreasing first for better wax absorbtion and adhesion, or just start with an oiled, but wiped down gun?

 

[GeorgeH]

Screw-up

I screwed-up. I meant to say wax then oil. What I actually do is spray on Gibbs oil, let it dry. Wipe-off the surface of the gun, then wax it with Ren Wax, then put a thin layer of oil.

I use the wax on everything. Unlike other waxes, it does not build-up nor does it form acids from exposure to the air. Renaissance Wax is such a great product, and it is so different from other waxes, that I make certain to specify the brand.

I carry a small custom made fixed blade "Push Dagger" made by Mickey Yurco. He calls it a push dagger, but it is actually neither a dagger nor a traditional push dagger. Its more like a push knife.

So every Sunday, I wax it up. It takes me maybe 15 to 20 seconds to do it.

 

[GeorgeH]

degreasing

You don't need to degrease with Gibbs, but yes with other kinds of oil.

 

[Bravo11]

Great replies.
Thx everyone. I understand that holster wear is just part of it and that a little wear shows character but I would still like to slow it down. It's like having mud on your 4x4, it shows character but washing it is good maintenance.
On the Ren... wax, where can that be purchased, Wally World or some kind of spec shop?
Also on silicon wipes. Is this a gun cleaning item, and where would I find them? I've looked for those before and couldn't find them. I may have to order.
Thnks again.

 

[GeorgeH]

Renaissance Wax

This stuff is not that easy to find.

It was developed by the British Museum in the 1950's when it was discovered that Beewax and Carnuba wax formed acids when exposed to the air.

On the web, it is fairly easy to find. At your local store--not so easy. Very, very upscale hardware stores may carry it. Stores that sell art and furniture preservation stuff will carry it. The knife making suppliers generally carry it. Coin shops sometimes carry the 2.5 oz tin. Some photo shops that cater to professional large format photographers will carry it (art galleries will coat a photo with it to protect the photo from air borne stuff and fingerprints). Rolls Royce dealerships will carry it. Sometimes fancy woodworking shops will carry it.

But once you use it, you will be hooked. It is extremly easy to apply and no wax that I have every used is so easy to buff out to a high shine. The key is to use very little. If you want to build up a shine, you can apply several coats. Unlike normal waxes, every time you put on a new coat, it removes mosts of the old, you have virtually no build up.

A neat test between different waxes is to wax a sheet of typing paper. Most waxes will darken the paper this stuff won't.

If you ever want to remove all traces of the wax, you daub some mineral spirits on it and it disappears.

It comes in three sizes: 2.5 oz (65 ml), 7 oz (200 ml), and small bucket. I buy the 7 oz size. If you order it on the web, the 7 oz stuff will cost, including shipping and handling, about $24-27.

 

[SelfProclaimedExpert]

A yahoo search shows that the best price in the States is $18.99 for 200mL. The stuff is much cheaper in England.

 

[GeorgeH]

Renaissance Wax

But the shipping and handling is a bite.

Someone told me that the distributor shows up at knife makers guild knife shows and sells the stuff at discount. But I've never gone to one of those shows.

The stuff isn't cheap, but I can't live without it. I love this stuff. My wife uses it for her shoes, which drives me nuts because she uses too much of it.

A couple of things that I forgot to mention. The stuff never dries out in the can. I guess it could given enough time, but it has never happen to me. Second, if you use it only for guns, knifes, holsters, and sheaths, a 7 oz can will last you for years.

 

[mparris71]

Renaissance Wax

"Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish is a blend of highly refined micro-crystalline fossil-origin waxes developed by the British Museum and used by restoration specialists world-wide on virtually all solid surface materials - including wood, metal, marble/onyx, shell, stone, ivory, plastics, smooth leather, and even paper. The hardness of a matured wax coating also gives excellent protection against finger marks, which are easily buffed away".

The Gemmary sales Renaissance wax and other conservation products. Good folks to deal with.

www.gemmary.com/restore.html

 

[C. H. Luke]

The best stuff have found for general use on handguns/rifles is
Boeshield T-9:

http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm