Polishing Parts - With A Tumbler?

[martin]

There is a thread in the reloading forum regarding tumblers and there was mention of a lapidary grade tumbler. I checked it out and it is sufficiently large to hold handgun components...even slides, etc.

I started searching the web and came up with a variety of high grade polishing compounds - even optical grade type - made for use in tumblers for polishing precious metals, jewelry, and such.

So, have any of you used a tumbler to prep slides and such for bluing or to refinish stainless steel handguns? I would assume if you mask the rails and plug the holes appropriately you should be ok regarding wear of those areas.

Seems like a heckuva time saver if you can afford the media to do it. The media available can do mirror finishes and preplating finishes to metal.

Whaddya think?

 

[Old Fuff]

If you did more then one part at a time they would bang into each other and leave dings and maybe worse. I've heard of it being done, but I think I'd rather stick with the old ways.

 

[Standing Wolf]

If you did more then one part at a time they would bang into each other and leave dings and maybe worse.

I tossed a couple brass parts from my Uberti 1851 Colt Navy pistol into my tumbler. It did a fine job of polishing the brass, but the parts banged together. I buffed out the scratches, returned them to the tumbler one at a time, and was happy with the result. I've got to assume what works for brass would work for other metals—or anything else, for that matter. My first cartridge case cleaner was a rock tumbler I found at a garage sale for $2.00. It worked fine for about a decade.

 

[4 eyed six shooter]

I do not think a tumbler would be the right thing for a slide. In a tumbler you are taking metal off of every surface and I don't think you would get an even polish. For the best polish job tape off the sides of the slide and bead blast the top and scallops on the side and then hand polish using a small hardwood block and wet and dry paper with kerosene on it. If the slide is in good shape I would start with 320 grit and then keep going to a finer grit until you have the degree of polish you are looking for. If it is pitted you can draw file or have it surface ground prior to polishing. Be sure to clean the slide well between grits. I have done several this way and they are a thing of beauty.
Good shooting, John K

 

[martin]

Well, I thought it was assumed you would do one part at a time. I also mentioned that with appropriate masking you won't be removing metal from where you do not want it removed. There are resins available to mask your object to be polished.

Uneven finish? How? I would think a machine would be far more consistent than someone with a buffer wheel. You are removing the human element from the operation. Remember you can leave a tumbler running for a sufficient time to get an even finish.

 

[Jim K]

Most factories routinely tumble frames, slides and other parts to remove sharp edges. That is why you can take down, say, a 1911 type pistol without needing bandages and a quickie blood transfusion. (Essex doesn't, as I found out recently with one of their frames. Ouch!)

Jim

 

[ambidextrous1]

I think it's a good idea - but go to a commercial deburring/polishing firm and describe what you are looking for ("mirror-loke finish"). You'll get questions about the metal, etc. Ask them if they'll try some old parts.

A good outfit will have a large variety of abrasives, and hopefullu a wheelabrator , sorta a vibratory case cleaner on steroids.

Don't be surprised if the dude you talk with is also a shooter; but be prepared to pay him for his efforts (barter is common in this trade). It's worth not spending hours getting cramps in your hands while sanding & buffing. I'll bet that's the wat the gun manufacturers do it on their well-finished firearms.

Oh - and be sure to report beck - with photos!

 

[4v50 Gary]

Some big companies "tumble finish" their guns. S&W does (go on a factor tour) as does Ruger. S&W was nice enough to let me have a "rock" which I brought home. Bought a S&W logo pin, snapped off the pin and epoxied the logo onto the rock.

 

[JoeHatley]

Bought an unfinnished Essex 1911 frame a few years ago. After spending a lot of time hand polishing the frame, I got the bright idea of tossing it in my Lymann brass tumber.

Great idea, poor execution. The sharp frame corners ate right through the pretty orange tumber bowl. Came back to a mess of ground walnut all over my bench, and needing to order a new bowl.

Oh well... Live and learn...

Joe