Polishing up brass

[Hikingman]

Since the brass is polished for my use, I avoid extra time or expense to polish it to the level that a commercial customer might expect. So, it looks very good, not perfect when leaving my dry tumbler setup after about 60 minutes. Nu Finish is my fav. polish these days mixed with corn cob/ walnut media.

 

[CQB45ACP]

Midway has the Frankford Arsenal complete dry tumbling kit - with tumbler, media, polish, separator and bucket - for $92 after $10 off special. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2124184804?pid=414369
The FART Lite by itself, no extras, is $110. They’re not really that close cost wise.

I got the small one a couple years ago from Cabela’s with pins & a bag of Frankford’s cleaning packets for $119. It was one of the few bargains I can recall them having and it wasn’t even that great. Had to buy a sifter separately.

But it’s the perfect size for me since I like to clean my cases as I shoot them (well, when I return from each range visit) and seldom have more than one load (100-150) per caliber at a time to clean. If I had much more to do at a time a larger one would make more sense.

 

[rdnktrkr]

I built a wet tumbler using 6" pvc and it holds all I need but I don't shoot a lot, after everything including pins I'll probably have $50-75 in it. My shooting buddy purchased one from Midway last year for about what I'll have in mine and he said shipping was pricey. I still use my vibratory cleaner with walnut, Nufinish, mineral spirits and dryer sheet to clean off sizing lube and leave a protective coating on the brass.
I replace my walnut media about every 2 years since the brass is already clean when it goes in the tub. I use the National Metallic brand of media separator from Midway and it seams to work ok, I also have a bucket liner and I have only recovered a pin or two that got by, rinse twice then dry in front of a fan.
I like being able to see inside the cases to see case fill easier

 

[Dane R. Marley]

I always deprime before I clean my brass.

I also use Lizard Litter and Nu-Finish in my Lyman Tumbler and I like the results.

I am also trying out a Frankford Arsenal Wet Tumbler wiith SS chips instead of SS pins. I find it to work well but clean up and seperation of the SS chips from the rifle cases is a Pain in the A**. I plan from now on to only clean my rifle cases in my Lyman Tumbler with Lizard Litter and Nu-Finish.

I haven't tried any pistol cases yet in the FA wet tumbler with chips. When I do the pistol case in the FA tumbler with the SS chips and I find the seperation to be is easier then the rifle cases I may keep the FA Wet Tumbler. As for now the FA Wet Tumber with Chip takes too long, (w/Rifle cases), to clean and go through a seperation process. I do have the FA seperation tumble.

I have watched a few videos on youtube where the reloader cleans hiis cases in a FA Wet Tumbler without any type of media. I may also try that with pistol and rifle cases.

It's all a learning process.

 

[Walkalong]

I bought all the stuff to tumble with SS pins, never got around to trying it, now many people have stopped using pins and just use citric acid and dish washing soap. I really should try that one of these days, but I have been so busy at the property I haven't shot much, haven't been picking up brass at the local range, and haven't needed to tumble much, I really need to fix that........as I plan what I am going to work on today...need to finish wiring the buggy shed, finally got power to the work shed, then dug a trench and got power to the buggy shed last weekend.

I need an intervention.

 

[9mmepiphany]

the FA Wet Tumber with Chip takes too long, (w/Rifle cases), to clean and go through a seperation process

1. Take the container and attach one slotted cover.
2. Cover the container with a barrel and invert both. You can this in a shower to contain water splash
3. Oscillate the container vertically inside the barrel to rinse out pins/chips
4. Open top of container and add water until it runs clear.

I've personally stopped using pins/chips because I don't really worry about how clean the primer pockets are. I just use some citric acid and Armorall Wash & Wax

 

[CQB45ACP]

My rifle brass that I don't need to polish a large quantity at a time I can polish with 0000 steel wool & a cordless hand drill.

Before
View attachment 1125788

After

View attachment 1125789

I say you’ve got it bad. Worse than a tumbler.

 

[sksshooter]

for those of you talking about the trouble to separate the stainless pins aren't using this then i understand the issue. this seperator is a must have. i also have the older bucket style that i still use for my dry tumbler but this square one is a must for the wet tumbler.

https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/ca...Y3iRAQ2-1DbA2zWETKS3Uog20ema0t7RoCn4gQAvD_BwE

 

[AK Hunter]

I say you’ve got it bad. Worse than a tumbler.

That may be but I figure I have to clamp the case in this fixture to trim it to length, I may as well polish it while it's in there. And for small batches it's not that bad.

 

[Rule3]

Please name a company that formulates their tumbler case polish using ammonia.

Dillon, Frankford Arsenal, Lyman, Hornady, RCBS and Flitz…..are all ammonia free. And for good reasons.

You are correct. Ammonia is not good for brass cleaning. But back to original post #1. The OP put a small piece of Never Dull wadding in his tumbler, Mostly it will collect dust. The small amount is not gonna hurt the brass

 

[BushMaster-15]

Having been at this for awhile I imagine I've used near everything imaginable at least twice Coatings and Polishing are areas of MY expertise and related to My employment in aerospace for decades . Take it for what it's worth ,as it makes No difference to Me one way or another .
Brass is a malleable combination of elements CU ZN FE SI PB AL even some P aka phosphorus . Not particularly hard but rather a softer metal .
Polishing IMO should be kept to a minimum ,reasoning being no different than the paint on your vehicles . The More one polishes the MORE one removes the material ,Brass Aluminum even Steel is No different abrasion leads to loss of material . After all Something has to give right .
Tarnish or surface contamination ,sure we want to remove it but we're NOT making jewelry are we .

That said professionals outfits who specialize in de-burring and polishing , use specific media along with time constraints to accomplish this with minimal material loss . Wet wash Dawn and or Lemishine dish soap ,cuts grease and carbon lube whatever ,Citric ,Oxalic , Acidic and other acids Aid in removing lime calcium hard water spotting .

Acids should be diluted perhaps as much as 1/128 depending upon their strength .
Mildly dirty brass pre wash ,then dry and run in a vibratory tumbler with , Walnut shell . IF You feel the need for Jewelry use corncob run longer time and or add polishing rouge . Yep just like you see a shop buffing a piece of metal ,rouge on the wheel and Buff away ,same principle as the vibratory polisher .

Wet tumble SS pins Dawn + Borax water cases ,run less time . Polish as described above .Dissolve Borax in Hot or boiling water for Maximum effectiveness .

My time proven method WORKS for MY purposes . Filthy 60+ year old left to the weather Range Brass as Bad as it should ever get .

Dawn Borax water **5 gal bucket, **optional size depending on # of cases being done . Soak 10-30 minutes You can also add a small portion of acid to the mixture . Vigorously shake swirl agitate MOVE cases in the solution ,allow 10 minutes repeat . Flush with clean water in other words rinse well . OK semi dry cases , then De prime case ,if You get some water on your Dies DON'T panic just wipe or spray with a water displacing lubricant .

Now You have Pre Washed de primed cases ,inspect discard defective cases . After cases are FULLY dried either vibratory polish or wet tumble with SS pins and soap mixture .

Because of the condition of MY particular WWll and Korean War Era Brass ,I pre wash de-prime run through My #3 frequency commercial Ultrasonic 3-4 minutes max. ,semi dry anneal neck shoulder ,cases are NOW fully dried De-capped and annealed .
IF I want Beautiful highly polished cases ,after sizing and trimming .
I'll put them in my vibratory polisher Big Dillon with 65/ 25/10 , Walnut shell ,corncob ,Triangular plastic ceramic impregnated shapes with 1 Tbls . of polishing rouge and run 20 Minutes MAXIMUM . Cases emerge looking like some of those stand up comics front teeth braces , aka BLING !.

Bottom line I DON'T run any of MY cases longer than 20 Minutes MAXIMUM in any of MY cleaning or Polishing methods ,including wet SS pin tumbling .

The advantage to MY setup is ,by running My special solution in the ultrasonic is , That I can fully process #250 cases in an hour .
I can clean and de-cap #700 .

Because I use Boeshield T 9 lube for sizing and simply wipe with clean micro towel when finished loading , have Never had the need to do any further extensive cleaning . Simply De-Cap vibratory 20 minutes reload . After #3 Rd. firing anneal trim if necessary and polish again if necessary reload .

 

[BushMaster-15]

Ammonia DOES ATTACK BRASS as well as Copper ,as Brass is approximately 70% CU aka copper and leads to brittleness .
Ever use Sweets copper killer ?. Sweets 7.62 Copper Cleaner 5% ammonia ,it removes it out of a bore ,it will remove it from a case .

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

That may be but I figure I have to clamp the case in this fixture to trim it to length, I may as well polish it while it's in there. And for small batches it's not that bad.

Pretty darn clever in my opinion. I am definitely trying it if I ever have just a few pieces that need cleaning old corrosion.

 

[BushMaster-15]

Cases cleaned and annealed , the heat re-tarnishes the cases almost immediately ,so I quit over cleaning or polishing until that process is finished . Then proceed to polish size trim reload .
First photo 3-4 minutes right out of the ultrasonic from Grubby filthy dirty . Photo #2 as they were and one out of ultrasonic for comparison .
These have NOT been pre washed straight into the ultrasonic and rinsed . Photo #3 Raw annealed cases . Photo #4 cleaned and annealed cases . Photo #5 Cases polished and reloaded .

One must remember the pictured cases headstamps are 1943 44 on .30 Cal and 7.62X51mm are 1953 54 . Could I make them shinier of course I can ,but My Garands and M14's can't tell the difference . I've never seen any data where highly polished cases put bullets into the same hole .
I simply avoid putting crap up My Dies and want rounds which function ,so far so good ; Besides it's what's inside which counts

 

[Dane R. Marley]

for those of you talking about the trouble to separate the stainless pins aren't using this then i understand the issue. this seperator is a must have. i also have the older bucket style that i still use for my dry tumbler but this square one is a must for the wet tumbler.

https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/ca...Y3iRAQ2-1DbA2zWETKS3Uog20ema0t7RoCn4gQAvD_BwE

I have that setup and it sucks for chips. I may work better for pins but I wouldn't know that since I have never used pins.

 

[AK Hunter]

I have that setup and it sucks for chips. I may work better for pins but I wouldn't know that since I have never used pins.

I have tried pins they stick to everything because of surface tension. I like my brass clean & polished but it doesn't have to be perfectly clean as new unless you are selling it as new. The inside can have a little discoloration & the primer pocket can be a little dirty but needs to be flat on the bottom so the new primer can set flat in the bottom.
The pins stick to the inside of your brass & don't fall out until the brass dries. Then they end up in your brass containers or work bench & shop floor. And at the high price of them I don't feel it's needed.

 

[sksshooter]

I have tried pins they stick to everything because of surface tension. I like my brass clean & polished but it doesn't have to be perfectly clean as new unless you are selling it as new. The inside can have a little discoloration & the primer pocket can be a little dirty but needs to be flat on the bottom so the new primer can set flat in the bottom.
The pins stick to the inside of your brass & don't fall out until the brass dries. Then they end up in your brass containers or work bench & shop floor. And at the high price of them I don't feel it's needed.

i have not had that issue however i do fill the catch pan up with water and spin the basket multiple times in the clean water. to date i've only had 2 pins hang around and they were short pins stuck sideways in primer pockets.

 

[Blue68f100]

I have tried pins they stick to everything because of surface tension. I like my brass clean & polished but it doesn't have to be perfectly clean as new unless you are selling it as new. The inside can have a little discoloration & the primer pocket can be a little dirty but needs to be flat on the bottom so the new primer can set flat in the bottom.
The pins stick to the inside of your brass & don't fall out until the brass dries. Then they end up in your brass containers or work bench & shop floor. And at the high price of them I don't feel it's needed.

If the pins are sticking you did not get all of the soap removed. Once the soap is remove the surface tension is lost and they fall free.

 

[Blue68f100]

i have not had that issue however i do fill the catch pan up with water and spin the basket multiple times in the clean water. to date i've only had 2 pins hang around and they were short pins stuck sideways in primer pockets.

When I find the short ones they get removed so it doesn't happen again. Like you I have had a few get stuck sideways in the primer pocket. It's a simple fix, just toss the short pins.

 

[AK Hunter]

If the pins are sticking you did not get all of the soap removed. Once the soap is remove the surface tension is lost and they fall free.

???? last time I checked the detergent we use reduces the surface tension, that would make them fall free faster. Unless my high school science teacher was wrong?

 

[AJC1]

Goal = clean brass or is it Goal = bright shinny brass?
You have to decide.
My goal is to have clean brass that does not damage my reloading equipment. I do not recall anyone at the range or any animal while hunting say....."oh, that brass is not pretty". I dry tumble until any tranish is removed. Dillon trumbler, walnut, Dillon polishing media.
Just saying.
View attachment 1125239

Wet tumbling allows me to restore horrible looking brass found in the mud and dirt. I don't even think a vibratory cleaner could get it clean without soaking and cleaning it first and then probably not still.

 

[epags]

Wet tumbling allows me to restore horrible looking brass found in the mud and dirt. I don't even think a vibratory cleaner could get it clean without soaking and cleaning it first and then probably not still.

You are probably right about the effectiveness of a dry vibratory vs wet tumbling on heavily tarnished brass.
I have been range master at a paved range and a member of a private range in (until this month) dry California so I haven't the problem of brass abandoned in mud and dirt. Thank heaven.

 

[Skgreen]

Soap contains Surfactants.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Soa...1C1CHBF_enUS908US908&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Surfactants reduce surface tension.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Surfactants&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS908US908&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

For that reason, I leave a little soap in my brass before it heads to the separator.
The bottom of my separator basket is submerged about an inch into the water.

 

[50of4064]

I have both dry and wet systems, each have their merits and their drawbacks, I built my wet / pin system just a few years ago. I had used the vibritory tumbler with crushed walnut media to process my brass for over 35 years. I chose the wet system over the dry for it's ability keep the "DUST" from the tumbling process down to a absolute minimum. The water acts as an encapsulating media and thus any dust would be one less contaminant that I would be inhaling. We expose ourselves to enough contaminants in this sport as it is. I never really gave that much thought, sometime things catch up with you in ways you never expect. For me it's not about contaminanation of the water, the ground, the septic system...I now have a lung condition, and the wet system is the cleanest system for my lungs. Wet or dry, your going to have to deal with what ever it is that you remove from your brass. You can pour it out, down the drain, bag it up and toss it, your call...just try and keep it out of YOUR system.
Pray all of you reading this, are well.
Good shooting and keep your powder dry.

 

[AJC1]

You are probably right about the effectiveness of a dry virbatory vs wet tumbling on heavily tarnished brass.
I have been range master at a paved range and a member of a private range in (until this month) dry California so I haven't the problem of brass abandoned in mud and dirt. Thank heaven.

Welcome to the muddy brass club. Only had to wait two decades or more. I don't recall this much rain ever, but my mom said it was like this in the 70s.