powder coated bullets vs plated bullets

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roval

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looking at options for loading a 357 at closer to max loads that may exceed 1200 fps. hard cast bullets looked at but would like to avoid bullet lube if possible and then looked at powder coated hard cast bullets. They seem to be cheaper than plated bullets but from what I was told no lube was required.

jacketed bullets can be bought but since this is for plinking would prefer less cost.

is there a disadvantage vs plated? are the plated bullets like xtreme hard cast as well? I didn't see any mention about their brinell hardness on the site.
 
Montana Gold 125 gr JHP bullets are hard to beat if you buy by the case. They are 10 cents each shipped.

With that said, I wanted some heavier bullets and ordered a few boxes of Missouri Bullet Company coated Zingers. They are excellent. I loaded them to 1300 fps. I get no leading, very little smoke, plus they are very accurate in the guns I have tested them in.
 
Plated bullets are not cast.
The lead core is swaged from relatively soft lead wire.

Then the electroplated jacket is added on top of that.

For full power Magnum loads your two options are Properly sized cast lead bullets.
(Not necessarily 'Hard' cast.)

Or real jacketed bullets.

Now, for plinking, why do you need full power Magnum loads anyway???

rc
 
I’ve been using the X-treme plated bullets for a few years and like them. Although I’m not very fond of the shape of the 148gr WC’s.

I don’t know what the coating is on the coated bullets you’re looking at. I tried some Moly coated bullets in 45ACP a while back. Some shooters swear by them, but I don’t like them. I just don’t like handling them and the coating transfers to and coats the bore making cleaning a pain. Just my opinion.
 
MBC bullets don't have moly on them. They have Hi-tek coating baked on them. They are clean to handle. From my experience, very little coating comes off in the bore. What had easily came out with a couple of passes of a dry plastic brush followed by a patch.
 
for fun and to see how I handle the recoil in a consistent fashion. I also like the sound of my steel targets. then i'll dial it down. I'm currently shooting 1000-1100 fps 158 grain with 800x but I tried one box of jhp 158g from black hills that had a nice punch and was consistent, definitely higher velocity . I enjoyed shooting those bullets too much though to chrono it.

I doubt i'll go max load but would like to try the higher velocities so long as it remains accurate.
 
I know this is not what you asked, but if you wnat to significantly reduce cost on full power magnum loads to practice with, nothing is less expensive than an uncoated cast bullet.

If you get good quality cast bullets such as Missouri Bullet Company Keith 158gr SWC, with a BRN of 18, you can load to full magnum velocities without leading issues in guns. If your concern about the wax lube they use on cast bullets is smoke, it won't be an issue when loaded with magnum powders as magnum loads.

My deer loads are a 158gr XTP over 110/296, and my pratice loads are exactly the same with a SWC. Both print the target at the same height at 50 yards. I don't have leading issues.

If it matters, I'm shooting them from a 6" GP100.
 
i'll be shooting it from a gp 100 6 inch as well.

going back to one of my original questions is there a disadvantage to powder coated vs plated?

it's cheaper and if you also don't have to use case lube on them then no disadvantage of the mess of the case lube from what I read. they don't look as nice as plated bullets but if they function well or is better I wouldn't care. should I just switch from plated to powder coated for plinking?
 
I am loading BBI bullets with the Hi Tek coating in 9mm. They do as well in my guns as plated.
I have not tried powder coating, that is mostly a DIY project and I do not want to bother with casting pistol bullets.
 
Cheapest is cast with lee Liquid Alox. :) I use powder coating now for almost all of my cast loads, but I'd have no trouble going back to hard lube or Tumble Lube. It's the balancing of the hardness of the lead, the lube and the load to ensure as little leading/fouling as possible.
Geez, I said that like I know something about it. ;)
 
will check out bbi then but several range regulars have been using sns powder coated bullets. no plans to do something like that myself. I haven't even done shake n bake chicken in over 20 yrs.:)
 
Powdercoated bullets are fantastic.

Storebought or homebrew, it leaves the speed limitation of plating in the dust- and although not useful in your application, solves the polygonal rifling / lead bullet problem quite nicely.
 
While the end appearance is the same, there are two different processes going on.

Powder coating is based on the industrial and automotive process of getting a powder to adhere to the object and then baking it to melt the powder into a smooth coating.
The current DIY is to shake bullets, powder, and airsoft pellets in a plastic container. The airsoft pellets and plastic container (A Cool Whip bowl is suitable.) generate enough static cling to get sufficient powder to cling to the bullets until baked.
Falcon Bullets say they use a dry coating, probably applied with an electrostatic spray gun as for your hot rod.

Bayou, BBI, SNS, MBC, and no doubt others use the spray or dip liquid Hi Tek coating imported from Australia by Bayou.
 
I powder coat my own pistol bullets and have had spectacular results in doing so. I'm in disbelief how easy the barrel cleans up and yes, polygonal rifling is a after thought now shooting the Glocks and H&K's. Shoots very clean and accurate.

I've done the tumbling method but now use a powder coat spray gun. Very fast and easy so much so that I've put my lubrasizer on hold. I've also powder coated some 30/06 for the M1 Garand but have yet to shoot those but have no doubt they will perform since I've shot quite a bit of cast with it.

PC_Glock45%20Custom_zps7e20yntp.jpg
 
So, I have a little bit of professional experience with both the plated and powder coated bullets so I will tell you what I know. I can't say much about the Hitek coating though as I have no experience with it at all.

Powder coating is extremely pretty, quite slick, cleans up easy, and is very very very hard to do right. The biggest issue you will get with powder coating is an inconsistent coating over the entire bullet. Even though the entire bullet may look perfect and pretty, you could end up with a jacket that is .020" thick on one side of the body and another that is just .005". If this happens, your bullet will want to fly wobbly and it won't always hit your point of aim. This isn't as big a deal in pistols as it is in rifles, but it may explain why rifle bullets that have been powder coated are never as accurate as gas checked rifle bullets even though there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the coating after firing. I'm not saying it can't be done to give a perfectly concentric coating, just that it is nearly impossible. That said, this hasn't stopped me from spending a lot of money to find a way to do it in a what that should be "good enough." I think the benefits outweigh the cons with coated bullets.

Plated bullets suffer from the same issue because various shapes and angles will attract the copper differently. Plating thickness will vary over the entire surface of the bullet and the copper tends to accumulate the most around the edge of the base. The variances are much less than that of powder coating so a reasonable amount of accuracy can be obtained. That said, not all plated bullets are created equal. For example, if you take four different brands of plated bullets, you will get four different standards of plating thickness (e.g. .006"-.016") Also, between each caliber and grain of each brand of bullet you will find different standards for plating thickness as well. Most plated bullets are made out of the softest lead they can get that will still work in the core cutters. This is usually even softer than jacketed lead cores. Some people experience bad bullet setback or even bullet resizing during seating because of the super soft lead core. In my experience, the resizing of a plated bullet can often be traced back to a Lee FCD. The soft lead will also obturate too much at higher velocities and the thin plating will crack and fail. This isn't a huge deal unless you are trying to push the envelope on speed.

Now, if you don't want to be exposed to biased information please stop reading here. Though this may construed as trying to advertise, it is more intended to explain that not all plated bullets are created equal. Too often, plated bullets get lumped into a single category when really each plated bullet should be given its own category and special treatment. Berry's, Rainier, Frontier, Xtreme, Powerbond, RMR, and Speer all have different plating thicknesses, core harness, and varying quality and each one may need to be treated differently.

For example, we have our own line of plated bullet that we developed based on the various issues we've seen with other plated bullets. The first thing we started with was a much harder lead core. The hard lead core does a number of things for the bullet. Coupled with our thick plating of between ".011-.014" It seems to handle higher velocities just fine. It also resists being resized during the seating and crimping stage. Our bullet also seems to resist bullet setback which we attribute to three factors. One is the harder lead core doesn't allow the bullet to resize while seating, second, we size all our plated bullets to what a commercial hard cast bullet would be so there is more neck tension, and third, we purposefully don't polish our bullets to a mirror finish so that it isn't so slick. We actually found that highly polished bullets may be very pretty but may have something to do with variances in seating depth and bullet setback. That isn't to say our bullets are ugly, just that you won't be able to see your face smiling back at you while you load them. Third, we put our bullets through three different striking processes. First we make the lead core. Then the core gets struck to the proper diameter for accepting the determined plating thickness. This is supposed to help with concentricity of the copper coating. The bullet is plated in two steps which creates a lot of excess copper on the base which is, when struck again, folded over onto the base creating what we have been calling a gas seal. Finally, the round is struck for a third time to make sure every one is the right diameter. A lot of extra time and materials goes into making our bullet. Because of this, I think our bullet will stand up to most any jacketed bullet in both accuracy and loadability. Not all plated bullets are the same.
 
RMRs 230gr .45 p,lated bullets shoot really well for me. No issues and I use the Lee FCD. (lightly)

I have shot a lot of MBC lubed lead bullets and had no issues with leading, but lately I am using the coated ones. They are not that much more.
I have some of the new RMR 9mm "cones" that I need to work up loads for hopefully they will work as well in my 9s as the .45s do in my Citadel 1911.
Usually you can get the coated bullets for a little less than plated, but the difference is not that large.

So, well.........I like both.
 
I've had some good results with plated bullets.

Scoped @ 200.

527at200yardstarget.jpg

Irons at 200.

200yards125grBerrysPHP_zpsd8bb88b2.jpg

Powdercoating not quite so well, and it is really obvious sometime when the drips down one side is going to throw it off.
 
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