Powder suggestions: Loading .300WM in a Dillon 550

[wombat13]

My FIL gave me his Dillon 550B progressive press. I'm working up a load for my .300WM. I chose two powders to start, RL 22 and IMR 4831, because these seemed to be among the most popular on reloadersnest.com.

I'm wondering if there are other powders that would be appropriate for .300WM that might flow better in my press. My charge weight variation with these powders is typically +/- 0.5 grains, but there is the occasional +/- 1.0 grain charge. I'd like to avoid weighing each charge if I can.

I'm focusing on 180 gr. bullets for now. I haven't had a chance to get to the range and try any of my loads yet. I'm just wondering if there might be a better powder. Thanks for suggestions.

 

[General Lee]

I use IMR 7828 with my 300 win mag works very well for me I have used it on 150gr to 220gr bullets with no issues. I think the best way to measure powder is to just use a scale and funnel though. I wouldn't imagine you would be producing mass amounts of this type of ammo. I have a Lee Pro 1000 that I have the same powder issues with but for a .223 I am not that worried. Big mag rounds I wouldn't trust anything but my powder scale.

 

[wombat13]

Big mag rounds I wouldn't trust anything but my powder scale.

Why? An over-charged .223 will blow up just as fast as an over-charged .300WM, won't it? I'm not trying to be a smart-aleck. I appreciate your response and I'm trying to learn.

I would also think that the same charge variation would have less of an affect the larger the total charge. For example, the powder charges for my .300WM are in the low 70 grain range, while it looks like .223 charges are around 25 grains. A 1.0 grain variation amounts to a little over 1% variation in the .300WM and 4% in the .223.

 

[wombat13]

Are there no powders appropriate for .30 cal magnums that flow better than RL-22?

 

[TonyM]

I also load .300 win mag. I find IMR 4831 to be good. However, I recently started using H1000 due to supposed better temperature insensitivity. With 150 grain bullets (light for this caliber) IMR 4350 worked well. To be honest IMR 4831 is a great powder for the .300 (IMHO).

 

[jfdavis58]

I've used Magnum from Ramshot with fairly good results; in fact, I've tried a couple of different Ramshot powders and had fairly good results (not all in 300WM).

The nature of a volumetric powder throw is such that variations are minimal ONLY within a small range of powder volumes in the hopper and consistent stroking of the mechanism. From your numbers and the nature of the powders tried, I'd say you're getting about the best performance possible from such a device. I doubt a change in powder will make much improvement.

You say you're in a learning mode: good. Many magnum loads REQUIRE maximum powder charges-where a +/- variation of .5 grain can MUCH MORE easily (and safely) be bettered with the old fashion scale and weight them all technique than a progressive press volumetric throw could EVER ASPIRE TOO!

 

[wombat13]

I've used Magnum from Ramshot with fairly good results; in fact, I've tried a couple of different Ramshot powders and had fairly good results (not all in 300WM).

The nature of a volumetric powder throw is such that variations are minimal ONLY within a small range of powder volumes in the hopper and consistent stroking of the mechanism. From your numbers and the nature of the powders tried, I'd say you're getting about the best performance possible from such a device. I doubt a change in powder will make much improvement.

You say you're in a learning mode: good. Many magnum loads REQUIRE maximum powder charges-where a +/- variation of .5 grain can MUCH MORE easily (and safely) be bettered with the old fashion scale and weight them all technique than a progressive press volumetric throw could EVER ASPIRE TOO!

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll check out Magnum by Ramshot.

Also, thanks for the info on volumetric measurements. I try to be very careful about using the same stroke each time. I noticed that I saw greater variation when I had the charging bar set for low charges than I did when I had it set for higher charges. The charge to charge variation at 69.0 grains was in the +/- 1 grain range but was down to +/- 0.5 grains when I had it set for 74.0 grains.

I did have a problem when I allowed the powder level in the hopper to get too low. The level was under 20% and I started getting light charges. I have five rounds set aside until I can get a bullet puller.

 

[wombat13]

A follow-up question. How much of a difference will 0.5 grains make on the exterior ballistics of a .300WM? Say my charges range between 73.5 and 74.5 grains, is the that the difference between 1moa and 2moa?

 

[NCsmitty]

Are there no powders appropriate for .30 cal magnums that flow better than RL-22?

I'm guessing that you are using a Dillon powder measure in your setup, and I would be disappointed if my measure could do no better than +- 1gr at times.

Most measures handle ball (spherical) powder more consistently than extruded or flake types. I'm not sure if you can develop a more consistent technique with your setup or not. Regardless, switching to a ball powder has got to help with the drops being more consistent.

FYI, I still use a single stage setup after nearly 50 years of loading. My Lyman #55 measure throws +- .1 with nearly all powders that I use, and I weigh all my rifle loads individually. I'm in no hurry, and I truly love reloading. Your rifle is only as good as your ammo allows.

The recommendation of spherical Ramshot Magnum is good, but it is quite slow and works best with heavy bullets.

Winchester's Supreme 780 ball is loaded in factory ammo for the 300 WinMag and like most ball powders, flows like quicksilver.

Rel-22 is an absolutely great powder, and it would be nice if you could get it to drop more consistently.



NCsmitty

 

[coug]

the difrence in 73.5 and 74.5 grns dependent upon the powder can safe and damage your rifle. you probly won't ever shoot more than 50 rnds a year. why not weigh them out the right way? so you can know without a doubt its perfect. the magnum rounds will be efected more than say a .223 because the pressure is higher so little difrences make big difrences .

 

[jfdavis58]

"A follow-up question. How much of a difference will 0.5 grains make on the exterior ballistics of a .300WM? Say my charges range between 73.5 and 74.5 grains, is the that the difference between 1moa and 2moa? "


This would depend on the powder. Within a listed range of powder weights (from a reputable manual) it's fairly common to interpolate in a linear fashion. Listed Loads are taken from a straight line region at, on or near typical ranges obtained with other competent choices and subject to remaining in acceptable pressure regions. On typical rifle loads a half grain more or less off either end of the listed range is probably within acceptable statistical variance and probably results in (less than) 20-30 fps velocity difference.

I've heard people say a half grain makes the difference between 1 and 2 MOA, BUT THAT'S NOT MY ACTUAL EXPERIENCE. I usually find a 3-5 grain region where there is both a dip in velocity variance and an increase in accuracy. Most often right between to sets of testors-thereby requiring a second trip with loads across that smaller range. Frankly 1 to 1.5 MOA is average to above average for the standard OTC rifle from a major brand. Handloading my get you 1/4 to 1/2 MOA smaller but YMMV...

 

[jfdavis58]

"the difrence in 73.5 and 74.5 grns dependent upon the powder can safe and damage your rifle. you probly won't ever shoot more than 50 rnds a year. why not weigh them out the right way? so you can know without a doubt its perfect. the magnum rounds will be efected more than say a .223 because the pressure is higher so little difrences make big difrences . "


I'd say 1 grain makes more difference in 223 than 1 grain in 300WM. Modern rifles are proofed at 1.5 to 2.5 times the top of the usable range. All other factors being within spec, a one grain over will show more in the brass and primer than in the rifle.

Now for that fifty round per year thing. Maybe I'm just crazy but 50 rounds in a single visit is just warming-up. Eighty or so makes a good match and 200 or so a good practice session. I get 8 to 10 practices a year.

 

[coug]

I truely doubt that you go tl the range and shoot 80 to 200 rounds out of a 300 wm ? but if you do why not make them accurate ? I have owned one for 18 yrs and I own a lot of other magnum rifles. I reload for all of them.. I have realoaded all my life and I can't think of one good reason to make substandard rounds to save a couple of minutes. the powders for the smaller rounds weigh better than the slow burning ones. IMO you don't buy magnum rifles to go burn 200 rounds in one setting . that's just silly all you will do is destroy your barrel .if you want to shoot like that most of us shoot a .223 or something similar. they are cheep and that is the kind of rounds that most people use the auto press for. but back on topic if you have long enough barrel you may want to try H-1000 or Reloader 25 or I almost forgot Retumbo its smaller than RL 25. Well I hope some of what I've said makes some sense to you and I hope it helps.

 

[wombat13]

Thanks to everyone replying to my questions. I want to avoid weighing each charge primarily at the beginning of load development. I've only got three bullets and two powders and I've already loaded 105 rounds (5 rounds of each combination, 21 combinations). If I try a couple more bullets and one or more different powders I'm looking at dozens of additional combinations and lots of loading time.

The other motivation is that I only get maybe an hour per week to load given family/work. I don't think it will be a big deal to weigh each charge once I have a load I'm happy with.

 

[wombat13]

I truely doubt that you go tl the range and shoot 80 to 200 rounds out of a 300 wm ? but if you do why not make them accurate ? I have owned one for 18 yrs and I own a lot of other magnum rifles. I reload for all of them.. I have realoaded all my life and I can't think of one good reason to make substandard rounds to save a couple of minutes. the powders for the smaller rounds weigh better than the slow burning ones. IMO you don't buy magnum rifles to go burn 200 rounds in one setting . that's just silly all you will do is destroy your barrel .if you want to shoot like that most of us shoot a .223 or something similar. they are cheep and that is the kind of rounds that most people use the auto press for. but back on topic if you have long enough barrel you may want to try H-1000 or Reloader 25 or I almost forgot Retumbo its smaller than RL 25. Well I hope some of what I've said makes some sense to you and I hope it helps.

My barrel is 24". Is that long enough for some of the powders you mention?

 

[coug]

you can try it and see if you get the velocity that you are looking for. but the H100 and retumbo are very slow. they would be more suited for a 28 inch or longer. it will shoot fine you just might not get the speed you want. you will notice a big difrence in recoil. those 3 powders just shove instead of kick. I try to shoot them in all my magnum rifles.

 

[TonyAngel]

I load .308 using a 550b. To do it right, there's just no true progressive loading, that I can see. I have one tool head with a sizing die in it. I run all of my brass though and decap and resize. Doing this on a progressive press is still faster than doing it on a single stage because all you have to do is place the next piece of brass and you don't have to worry about ejecting/removing the one that you just sized.

Next, I trim all of my cases, then debur and chamfer, then I clean the primer pockets. Now that the cases are ready to load, I tumble them for five minutes or so to get the lube off. Now they are ready to load and use a semi progressive method. I put the unprimed brass in the first station and go as though I am resizing with a full stroke, then prime on the downstroke. In the second station, I have my powder drop die rigged up with a funnel. I also use a Hornady Auto Charge to dispense my charges. On the upstroke, I dump the dispensed charge into the funnel. Of course, while on the down stroked, I seat a bullet. It goes pretty quickly. I can load about 100 rounds in an hour and a half if I'm not messing around.

 

[General Lee]

Personally if I am shooting a dollar a round I would want it to be as accurate as possible. If I am shooting a 20 cent I would probaly be a little more leniant. As far as the 1 grain potential difference. When I load progresssive with my 223 I have to dial down the powder to make sure I never go over. With my 300 WM I feel I want every shot to count for the extra money. I dont plan on making 1k rounds of 300 WM but I do plan on making several thousand 223 rounds. That is the main reason I take my time and measure for 300 WM. I wouldn't say my advice is wrong I would say it is my suggestion... Don't post if you don't want people suggestions.

 

[wombat13]

I wouldn't say my advice is wrong I would say it is my suggestion... Don't post if you don't want people suggestions.

Sorry if you were offended by my question. I simply asked a clarifying question to try to understand your post better. As I said before:

"I appreciate your response and I'm trying to learn."