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Hey folks. Did a little playing this weekend and thought I would share...
I finally started loading rifle a few months ago and .308 is the only caliber I'm loading for. The very first time I sat down and processed 200 .308 brass in a single sitting, I realized I wasn't going to be able to retain enough interest do this long term if I couldn't speed up the process.
My process is fairly typical; I tumble in Walnut/NuFinish/Mineral Spirits/Dryer Sheet Strips. Next is a light lube with Hornady Unique Case Lube and a dip into Motor Mica for the neck, then size and deprime on an LnL single stage. Then I take the brass to the garage to trim and prep.
I'd been using a hand crank Hornady Cam-Lock Trimmer and then a handheld chamfer/deburr tool. That really sucks, and I knew in my gut there is no way I'd pursue that long term. Too slow and too much manual elbow grease.
The first decision was simple - I bought the Lyman Case Prep Center. It is AWESOME - and I can do two brass (as I have two hands) at the same time. Maybe 20 seconds to take two brass cases at the same time, around the course of tool bits. I picked the Lyman over the RCBS Case Prep Center based purely on customer reviews on MidwayUSA.com. Here is the Lyman unit after doing 100 brass, before cleanup:
Next decision I thought was to simply replace the Hornady Cam-Lock Trimmer with a World's Finest Trimmer (WFT) for .308 for $69. It would simply chuck into my drill press.
Doing some searching, I did find that Hornady does sell a drill attachment for the Cam-Lock Trimmer - but it is almost $30 excluding the drill, and is backordered through July 2012 at MidwayUSA.com. Sunday morning I decided to see if I could make my Hornady Trimmer powered and try that before ordering a single caliber trimmer for .308...
Items Purchased:
1 x 3/8-24tpi (which is 'fine' as opposed to standard or 'coarse' for 3/8" thread) brass nut @ Menards $0.69 (this is the thread where the handle attaches to the cutter drive shaft)
1 x 9/16" socket in 3/8" drive @ Menards $3
1 x 1/4" shank (cordless screwdriver bit) to 3/8" socket drive @ Menards $3
$7 total instead of $30
After sitting down and doing a test batch of 5 brass, I decided to JB Weld the nut into the socket, so that when I complete a piece of brass, I can pull the trimmer back with the drill and the drive assembly won't separate.
Below you can see the JB Weld on the brass nut in the socket. Had Menard's had any steel 3/8-24 nuts I would have just tack welded it into the socket with my little 110v MIG welder.
Once that was done, then the unit started separating at the screwdriver - the bit was pulling out as it is simply magnetic. The 3/8" socket drive bit for the screwdriver has a recessed section like many screw driving bits, so I just needed a set screw to hold it in. I happened to have a 6-32 thread tap and plenty of 6-32 machine screws, so I drilled and tapped the drive collar on the cordless screwdriver - and ended up with a rather non-elegant but perfectly functional bit retention set screw. A little blue thread lock and a snug and I was all done.
Note - the 3/8" socket driver does have a ball detent - it must be on bottom as you can't see it, and it is strong enough that when I pull the screwdriver back after finishing a trim, it doesn't separate from the socket. If it did I would tack/spot weld the socket drive bit to the socket as it is a dedicated unit anyway. Note I wouldn't weld anything to my screwdriver I want it to be available for any other normal use also.
I already had the screwdriver - it is a Black & Decker Li3100 cordless screwdriver @ Lowe's $29. It has a Lithium Ion battery, runs at the same 180RPM that the Lyman and RCBS Case Prep Centers run, is advertised as retaining a charge for up 500 days (18 months) and has a 2 year warranty. I bought it 6 months ago for work, but ended up with a nice Hitachi 18v Cordless Hammer Drill hand-me-down.
I did a batch of 100 .308 brass last night and noticed two things:
1.) Once I was not turning the crank, I was surprised to see for how long the cutter continued to produce shavings. When turning by hand I was seeing a .002-.003" variation all to the long side. Meaning I was rushing and not cranking enough and missing out on some trimming. You can actually hear the drill unload a bit and gain some RPM - easy to tell when it is done cutting. My variation is now .0005". That is superb!
2.) The cast aluminum frame of the Hornady Cam-Lock Trimmer was not going to last long powered. I pulled the cutter off and removed the crank assembly and wiped the shaft and saw TONS of suspended aluminum. I had dutifully filled the little oil hole with air-tool oil every time I used it, but clearly that wasn't providing enough wear protection. I cleaned off both surfaces with brake cleaner, and GREASED it with Lucas Oil Red & Tacky with Lithium, that says it is good for sliding and rotating surfaces. I wouldn't want to crank the handle manually now - WOW talk about some drag! But the screwdriver doesn't mind... : )
Anyway I am super proud of this upgrade and I am actually LOOKING FORWARD to prepping some more RIFLE BRASS this evening. Wow after my first brush with rifle brass prep I'd have never believed I would say those words.
If anyone else has or comes up with an improved drive system I'd love to hear about it.
Any thoughts?
Thanks, and happy rifle brass prepping!
I finally started loading rifle a few months ago and .308 is the only caliber I'm loading for. The very first time I sat down and processed 200 .308 brass in a single sitting, I realized I wasn't going to be able to retain enough interest do this long term if I couldn't speed up the process.
My process is fairly typical; I tumble in Walnut/NuFinish/Mineral Spirits/Dryer Sheet Strips. Next is a light lube with Hornady Unique Case Lube and a dip into Motor Mica for the neck, then size and deprime on an LnL single stage. Then I take the brass to the garage to trim and prep.
I'd been using a hand crank Hornady Cam-Lock Trimmer and then a handheld chamfer/deburr tool. That really sucks, and I knew in my gut there is no way I'd pursue that long term. Too slow and too much manual elbow grease.
The first decision was simple - I bought the Lyman Case Prep Center. It is AWESOME - and I can do two brass (as I have two hands) at the same time. Maybe 20 seconds to take two brass cases at the same time, around the course of tool bits. I picked the Lyman over the RCBS Case Prep Center based purely on customer reviews on MidwayUSA.com. Here is the Lyman unit after doing 100 brass, before cleanup:
Next decision I thought was to simply replace the Hornady Cam-Lock Trimmer with a World's Finest Trimmer (WFT) for .308 for $69. It would simply chuck into my drill press.
Doing some searching, I did find that Hornady does sell a drill attachment for the Cam-Lock Trimmer - but it is almost $30 excluding the drill, and is backordered through July 2012 at MidwayUSA.com. Sunday morning I decided to see if I could make my Hornady Trimmer powered and try that before ordering a single caliber trimmer for .308...
Items Purchased:
1 x 3/8-24tpi (which is 'fine' as opposed to standard or 'coarse' for 3/8" thread) brass nut @ Menards $0.69 (this is the thread where the handle attaches to the cutter drive shaft)
1 x 9/16" socket in 3/8" drive @ Menards $3
1 x 1/4" shank (cordless screwdriver bit) to 3/8" socket drive @ Menards $3
$7 total instead of $30
After sitting down and doing a test batch of 5 brass, I decided to JB Weld the nut into the socket, so that when I complete a piece of brass, I can pull the trimmer back with the drill and the drive assembly won't separate.
Below you can see the JB Weld on the brass nut in the socket. Had Menard's had any steel 3/8-24 nuts I would have just tack welded it into the socket with my little 110v MIG welder.
Once that was done, then the unit started separating at the screwdriver - the bit was pulling out as it is simply magnetic. The 3/8" socket drive bit for the screwdriver has a recessed section like many screw driving bits, so I just needed a set screw to hold it in. I happened to have a 6-32 thread tap and plenty of 6-32 machine screws, so I drilled and tapped the drive collar on the cordless screwdriver - and ended up with a rather non-elegant but perfectly functional bit retention set screw. A little blue thread lock and a snug and I was all done.
Note - the 3/8" socket driver does have a ball detent - it must be on bottom as you can't see it, and it is strong enough that when I pull the screwdriver back after finishing a trim, it doesn't separate from the socket. If it did I would tack/spot weld the socket drive bit to the socket as it is a dedicated unit anyway. Note I wouldn't weld anything to my screwdriver I want it to be available for any other normal use also.
I already had the screwdriver - it is a Black & Decker Li3100 cordless screwdriver @ Lowe's $29. It has a Lithium Ion battery, runs at the same 180RPM that the Lyman and RCBS Case Prep Centers run, is advertised as retaining a charge for up 500 days (18 months) and has a 2 year warranty. I bought it 6 months ago for work, but ended up with a nice Hitachi 18v Cordless Hammer Drill hand-me-down.
I did a batch of 100 .308 brass last night and noticed two things:
1.) Once I was not turning the crank, I was surprised to see for how long the cutter continued to produce shavings. When turning by hand I was seeing a .002-.003" variation all to the long side. Meaning I was rushing and not cranking enough and missing out on some trimming. You can actually hear the drill unload a bit and gain some RPM - easy to tell when it is done cutting. My variation is now .0005". That is superb!
2.) The cast aluminum frame of the Hornady Cam-Lock Trimmer was not going to last long powered. I pulled the cutter off and removed the crank assembly and wiped the shaft and saw TONS of suspended aluminum. I had dutifully filled the little oil hole with air-tool oil every time I used it, but clearly that wasn't providing enough wear protection. I cleaned off both surfaces with brake cleaner, and GREASED it with Lucas Oil Red & Tacky with Lithium, that says it is good for sliding and rotating surfaces. I wouldn't want to crank the handle manually now - WOW talk about some drag! But the screwdriver doesn't mind... : )
Anyway I am super proud of this upgrade and I am actually LOOKING FORWARD to prepping some more RIFLE BRASS this evening. Wow after my first brush with rifle brass prep I'd have never believed I would say those words.
If anyone else has or comes up with an improved drive system I'd love to hear about it.
Any thoughts?
Thanks, and happy rifle brass prepping!
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