"precision" rifle on a budget

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tshaw

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Looking to pick up a new rifle something capable of tight groups at 500-800+ meters.. budget for rifle only is 700-1000 anything cheaper would be nice too so.I could afford a better scope when I get said rifle.. bolt action, just trying to get some ideas on what's out there!

Thanks in advance!
 
Single Shot/Repeater? Competition? Caliber?

Close to the low end of your price range is the Savage 10 FP-SR. Only available in .308 and .223, and the .223 isn't going to be what you're after for 700-1000 yards, probably. And you didn't say 600 yards, so I assume that this won't be for F-Class/Target Rifle shooting.

The Savage 12 LRP (Long Range Precision) is slightly over you max (MSRP anyway) but can be had in the .260 Rem and 6.5 Creedmore which will be easier on your shoulder than the .308, and won't burn barrels as fast as the 6.5-284.

The first thing I would do is go over to www.savagearms.com and take a look around.

ETA: RC is the 12 VLP BDM the one you are thinking of? Looks like it from the picture at Bud's. The 26" barrel can't hurt at long range.
 
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Prefer 308 and I said between. 500-800 maybe more.. will be doing local distance competitions and just a fun gun to take to the range 500yards..
 
RC is the 12 VLP BDM the one you are thinking of?
I don't know?

I just picked the cheapest 26" Model 12 Varmint I found on Buds website.
They list it as the Savage 308WIN 26StainlessACU - Savage #18624.

Sure looks just like the 12 BVSS - Savage #19139 to me though.

Savage has too many model's for me to even pretend to keep them all straight!!

rc
 
I doubt if anyone really needs a muzzle break on a .308!

The blast will have them flinching in no time flat!

rc
 
rcmodel said:
I doubt if I really need a muzzle break on a .308!

The blast will have me flinching in no time flat!

rc

There I fixed for you!:p

After shooting prone for extended lengths of time even the 308 Win will wear on you. I have brakes on rifles from 223 to 50 BMG,they do help tremendously with seeing impacts even when your NPA is on. The muzzle brake is getting to be more common place with 308 tactical/precision crowd, why do you think Savage is offerering them from the factory if the demand wasnt there. Having the muzzle threaded is also nice to have if you ever decide to host a suppressor. Threaded caps can be had if you chose not to run a brake or a can. I have run QD brake attachments which allow me to quickly swap suppressors out on different rifles.

My point is that you might not find a threaded muzzle/brake nescessary now but it might be something to consider for the future if considering shooting alot or hosting a suppressor.

brakeex.jpg

ThreadProex.jpg
 
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IMO, the main problem with trying to buy a precision factory made rifle on a budget will be finding a rifle with an excellent barrel. Many factory rifles have pretty good barrels, but getting one with an excellent barrel will be mostly a matter of uncommon good luck.

My suggestion would be to consider a good quality used rifle (hunting, varmint, or target) with a well used barrel. Buy it cheap and replace the barrel with a Douglas or other high quality barrel (whatever length and weight you desire.) (Stainless steel might be preferable.) With a Douglas stainless barrel and the re-barreling done by a qualified local gunsmith, the total cost of the new barrel (with matte spray coating) could be about $350 to $375. But you will have a good basic rifle with an excellent barrel.

Glass bed the action (and the first 2.5" of barrel) and float the barrel. Install a Timney or other high quality trigger for around $120. Refinish the action and barrel with a high quality matte black coating if it was not done during re-barreling. Refinish and reseal the stock yourself. Add whatever cheek pad accessories are required to get the proper comb height with your chosen scope. If you bought the original used rifle for $300 to $400, you will probably end up with a better shooting rifle with a better barrel and a better trigger than any new factory rifle you can buy for the same total cost.

The suggestion to consider one of the Savage models is also a good one.
 
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The Weatherby Vanguard is a good low priced rifle for a beginner. They are on sale at most shops at this time. Because they are bringing out a new model of the Vanguard and want to sell off the others. (so i have been told)

223 vs 308
The 308 can be used on everything from pasture poodles up to bears. The winner in my book would be the 308.
 
Savage 10 or 12 would be my first choice in your price range, followed by the Remington 700 Varmint .308. Then spend as much as you can afford on a decent scope. Either one of those would be capable of respectable groups 5-600yds, even 1K, but you need to have a serious optics budget to shoot much past 600 IMO.
 
There have been many excellent suggestions, but so far only my suggestion has told you how you can end up with a great shooting rifle with an excellent barrel and an excellent trigger.
 
I second those recommending Savage!

buy new as you are paper punching you want as much bbl life as possible. Also, I agree with spending a bit more than entry level to get a decent stock (laminate or synthetic) as you will be cursing an injection molded stock before long if you are chasing small groups.

I would recommend going with a Savage precision in .260 Rem. http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/36_62_974/products_id/71098 as that caliber gives you cheaper ammo if you reload, much better ballistics than .308 especially if you start to go past 1000 yd, phenomenal accuracy and way less recoil and muzzle blast than a .308.

That said, I have a .308 savage precision build that shoots .25 moa 6 shot groups.

If you are marginally handy with guns you can save a few bucks by doing what I did: buy the action, barrel and stock separately. and then assemble them yourself. Savage's are relatively easy to do.
 
I would look for a used Savage with the correct bolt face - don't worry about the stock, caliber, etc. I've been able to get some good deals on LA 30-06 Savages. Pull the stock and barrel, sell them(you'll get around a hundred dollars or so). Order a barrel from Northland shooters supply or other sources in 308, then start looking at stocks.

Just a bit of surfing found the base rifle for around ~$300, the barrel is also $300, and a used HS Precision stock for $240
 
My Savage 10fp in .223 has surprised me about every time I've shot it straight out of the box especially, with hand loads. I replaced the Accutrigger with the Rifle Basix SAV-2 trigger and plan to put it in a Bell & Carlson stock still. I would imagine it might be worth a thought in .308 caliber for around $600.00. :)
 
Used older Sako, Tikka brand new, or Weatherby Mark V used, or Weatherby Vanguard Sub MOA. It is my understanding that Tikka rifles have the same barrels on them as the Sako 85 line.
 
My friends trying to turn me on to a 24inch barrel ar15 says his is did accurate on a good day at 500-600 yatds any opinions on that
 
.223's are used in High Power out to 600 yds. the main problem with using this cartridge at such long ranges is that it requires somewhat specialized ammunition. i.e.- heavy for diameter bullets such as 75 gr. and up. My buddies son practiced with his AR on my 600 yd. range prior to competing at Camp Perry and used handloads with the 75 gr. Hornady A-Max bullet exclusively.
Many of these longer bullets must be seated out longer than magazine length which means they must be loaded singly in an AR, which in effect gives you a really slow, single shot rifle. I believe Hornady and maybe others load 75 gr. ammo that can be used in a magazine, but it's typically specialized (read expensive) ammo. So, while the .223 can certainly be used out to 600 yds., that's pretty much the limit, where the 308W can and is usd out to 1000 yds.
I'd suggest broadening my criteria to include used rifles. The .308 is a naturally "accurate" cartridge which means almost any quality rifle chambered for it is liable to be accurate.
I have an old 70's vintage Ruger 77 308 in sporter configuration that ALWAYS shoots under 1" and occassionally gives up 3-shot, 1-hole groups with hunting handloads. Likewise, my little Mauser based 308 Scout rifle with a 2.75X scope rarely, rarely groups over 1" and has done so for the 20 +/- years I've owned it. Years ago I handloaded some hunting loads for a buddies Remington 788 .308 and it was the same way; yielding a few groups that put 3 shots into one ragged hole.
Point is, with a 308 in any reasonable rifle firing any reasonable ammunition, you're going to have an accurate long range rig.
Oh, and please don't let anyone tell you that you need a muzzle break. The .308's recoil is not at all bad (just ask the guys who compete in High Power with M1's and M1A's firing 80+ rounds per match).Using one of those things is the quickest way I know to make enemies at the gun range.

Good luck in your search.

35W
 
Prefer 308 and I said between. 500-800 maybe more.. will be doing local distance competitions and just a fun gun to take to the range 500yards..

Sorry, I misread the distance. :eek:

If you are doing competition read the rules first. Some (like F-Class/TR) specify the calibers you have to use.

I would still steer you toward the .260 or even the 7mm-08 over the .308, especially if you hand load.

I have a Savage 110FP in .308 with a 24" barrel (pre accu-trigger) that will shoot almost anything I put in it sub-MOA. Even "surplus" 7.62 NATO ammo goes ~1 MOA. Regardless of the cartridge you shoose, it's just hard to go wrong with a Savage in your price range.

Speaking of your price range...

For about $1000 you can buy a donor Savage Model 11 in .243, 7mm-08, or .308 (a new model 11 will run ~$450-$500) and send it to McGowen and it will come back with a custom barrel made and installed to your specifications for ~$300. Put on an aftermarket stock to your liking for a rifle that will likely outshoot you. Or just shoot it the way it is for a while and then spend the money on a barrel and stock later when you eventually decide what you really want/need.

If you really want to get fancy you can buy just a Savage target action, which will give you a very nice target trigger (it will help a lot at long range). Check out "Northland" at the savageshooters.com forum. http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,7912.0.html

I bought brand new Savage 11FCNS and had a McGowen barrel put on for ~$750, but I kept the factory stock (it's a hunting rifle). My hunting load shot a 0.4" 3-shot group a few weeks ago. My largest group while working up loads with various bullets and powders was 1.2".

Now that I have had a custom rifle barrel, I don't know if I can ever buy a factory rifle again.
 
Just buy a cheap model and save up for a good stock later. you wont be happy with any of savages stocks for shooting matches unless you get the Mc Millan model. Buy a cheep one and get good glass and then get something like an XLR Industries stock for it. then you will have a perma grin. :)
 
The pawn shops are full of rifles that guys bought to do the 'sniper' thing, they tried to set it up, shot a couple of boxes through it, and realized it would take a lot of time and work to really learn how to do it. It sat in the closet for a year or two, and then their wife got pregnant. They decided they would sell it now and try again later.

I would go to a pawn shop and look for any brand name, heavy-barreled rifle in .308. (I would prefer a Remington 700 VS, but seriously, any good model from Savage, Winchester, Sako, FN, etc will work just fine.) Take it to a smith, make sure the crown isn't dinged, (If it is, they can fix it easily,) adjust the trigger to 2-3 lbs, and put on a solid mount for optics. This should give you a rifle that will shoot MOA or better with match grade ammo.
 
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