Preferred AR15 Armorer's Wrench and Must Have Tools/References for AR15 Build

[redcon1]

I'm interested in building an AR15. It will be a first but hopefully not a last. I'm acquiring tools and knowledge. I just bought a new Torque wrench today and a Botach Barrel Spline Socket Rod. I'm looking at Armorer's wrenches now and it seems like some are more useful than others. Can anyone suggest one that they find to be especially useful/versatile? This all started when I realized that my local gun smith installed my suppressor mount with a crush washer. I think if I want it done right, I'm going to have to do it myself. If there are other must have tools or books/references, please advise me. Thank you.

 

[mjsdwash]

in general an armorers wrench is a gimmick, and won't do anything as well as a dedicated tool. the only exception would be the castle nut wrench. Those seem to be okay.
Most of the features on mine are useless, and the barrel nut wrench does not fit correctly.
I use automotive wrenches for everything but castle nuts and they work better.
Any barrel wrench that fits your rifle, a castle nut wrench (if using a telestock) really are the only thing you won't be better served with $30 at Harbor Freight.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Pin setters, magnet on a stick, magnetic parts tray

 

[redcon1]

Yeah, that makes sense. Tiny little parts falling all over the place would be frustrating. Noted. thanks.

 

[Zahn]

Huge ziplock bags, big enough for both hands and the lower. Hopefully the spring will be contained when it launches.

 

[redcon1]

in general an armorers wrench is a gimmick, and won't do anything as well as a dedicated tool. the only exception would be the castle nut wrench. Those seem to be okay.
Most of the features on mine are useless, and the barrel nut wrench does not fit correctly.
I use automotive wrenches for everything but castle nuts and they work better.
Any barrel wrench that fits your rifle, a castle nut wrench (if using a telestock) really are the only thing you won't be better served with $30 at Harbor Freight.

Glad I asked before I bought, Thanks. I was reviewing castle nut staking and removal and what not and that's what got me thinking about these wrenches. I'll get the castle nut wrench and not overspend on other stuff then.
ETA: just ordered a $10 castle nut wrench that some random guy said worked perfectly. We'll see.

 

[redcon1]

Huge ziplock bags, big enough for both hands and the lower. Hopefully the spring will be contained when it launches.

Yeah, I've been there and done that a few times. Which spring is the most problematic? the takedown pins? I recall launching the buffer retainer spring once long ago while installing a collapsible stock.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Yeah, I've been there and done that a few times. Which spring is the most problematic? the takedown pins? I recall launching the buffer retainer spring once long ago while installing a collapsible stock.

Ya, the front takedown pin detent spring, and the buffer retainer like to break orbit. Then, of course, making sure the hammer spring is oriented correctly, otherwise you'll get light primer strikes.

The MidwayUSA assembly videos with Larry Potter on Youtube are priceless.

 

[Zahn]

Yeah, I've been there and done that a few times. Which spring is the most problematic? the takedown pins? I recall launching the buffer retainer spring once long ago while installing a collapsible stock.

For me, both. But I have the worst time with the takedown pins.

Back to the subject at hand, get a wrench for the buffer castle nut and the barrel nut. Everything else can be done with decent automotive tools. Perhaps an armorer's screwdriver set. Oh, and an armorer's hammer. Amazon has a nice one.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

A small pair of needle-nose vice grips can make starting some of the pins alot easier, especially the trigger guard pin as the flanges on the lower are quite thin and easily damaged.

I also sometimes open up a heavy-duty paperclip for use as a roll-pin guide

 

[Zahn]

A small pair of needle-nose vice grips can make starting some of the pins alot easier, especially the trigger guard pin as the flanges on the lower are quite thin and easily damaged.

[Smacks forehead] Oh, man. I'm so stealing this idea.

 

[redcon1]

Ya, the front takedown pin detent spring, and the buffer retainer like to break orbit. Then, of course, making sure the hammer spring is oriented correctly, otherwise you'll get light primer strikes.

The MidwayUSA assembly videos with Larry Potter on Youtube are priceless.

Good to know. I'll check them out. I ordered a book that seems to have a lot of details in it. I like having books on hand about these things too. As far as hammers go, I have changed triggers on two of my AR platforms with Hyperfire triggers and that went OK so I'll likely stick with that.

 

[redcon1]

Good to know. I'll check them out. I ordered a book that seems to have a lot of details in it. I like having books on hand about these things too. As far as hammers go, I have changed triggers on two of my AR platforms with Hyperfire triggers and that went OK so I'll likely stick with that.

Edit: watching Larry now

 

[redcon1]

For me, both. But I have the worst time with the takedown pins.

Back to the subject at hand, get a wrench for the buffer castle nut and the barrel nut. Everything else can be done with decent automotive tools. Perhaps an armorer's screwdriver set. Oh, and an armorer's hammer. Amazon has a nice one.

I just bought a Sunex 3/8" torque wrench and a set of 3/8" - 7/8"crow's feet wrenches for muzzle breaks and flash suppressors. Would the torque wrench and any appropriately sized crows foot wrench be sufficient for barrel installation. Are they all mil spec? Would one crows foot wrench fit all barrel nuts?

 

[BigBlue 94]

I have these two:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020737242?pid=489452

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ols/wrenches/barrel-nut-wrench-prod86397.aspx

Both work well for castle nuts and barrel nuts, free float and delta ring. Imho there is no other need for an armorers wrench.

Quality punches, dental picks, and screwdrivers are more important for general smithing. You also need a way to clamp a receiver into a vise safely. Flattop and carry handle receivers generally dont use the same clamp parts.

I use a crescent wrench or appropriately sized wrench for barrel devices.

I find it handy to buy cheap extra tools to modify for exact needs. Like i have a half inch wrench in my box that is only about .125" thick. I use it on occasion.

 

[redcon1]

A small pair of needle-nose vice grips can make starting some of the pins a lot easier, especially the trigger guard pin as the flanges on the lower are quite thin and easily damaged.

I also sometimes open up a heavy-duty paperclip for use as a roll-pin guide

Good to know. I just watched a video on you tube of a guy using these Knipex pliers for roll pin installation. It was pretty slick. But they're not exactly cheap. $80 for the 12" ones he recommended. I'll try the paperclip but those are some nice pliers.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Good to know. I just watched a video on you tube of a guy using these Knipex pliers for roll pin installation. It was pretty slick. But they're not exactly cheap. $80 for the 12" ones he recommended. I'll try the paperclip but those are some nice pliers.

The parallel jaw plier design is the best ive used for general purpose gunwork. My pair is like 100 years old, i found at an estate sale. They even have a wire cutter. Brownells is out of stock but this is what parallel jaw pliers look like.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-.../high-grade-parallel-jaw-pliers-prod6707.aspx

 

[Zahn]

I just bought a Sunex 3/8" torque wrench and a set of 3/8" - 7/8"crow's feet wrenches for muzzle breaks and flash suppressors. Would the torque wrench and any appropriately sized crows foot wrench be sufficient for barrel installation. Are they all mil spec? Would one crows foot wrench fit all barrel nuts?

Yes, the barrel nuts should be the same size, but always check slowly to ensure you don't put marks on things needlessly.

Some flash suppressors have two flats, so you may need an open ended wrench or a good adjustable (Crescent) wrench.

 

[redcon1]

I just bought a Sunex 3/8" torque wrench and a set of 3/8" - 7/8"crow's feet wrenches for muzzle breaks and flash suppressors. Would the torque wrench and any appropriately sized crows foot wrench be sufficient for barrel installation. Are they all mil spec? Would one crows foot wrench fit all barrel nuts?

I bought a Botach Barrel Spline Socket Reaction Rod to secure the gun in the vice and to keep the torque in the barrel extension and you can use it to rotate the gun 360° as you work on it. I'll probably buy more as time goes on but I need to just build one for now I think. I'm stoked about it.

 

[redcon1]

Yes, the barrel nuts should be the same size, but always check slowly to ensure you don't put marks on things needlessly.

Some flash suppressors have two flats, so you may need an open ended wrench or a good adjustable (Crescent) wrench.

Yeah, the Crows feet wrenches I bought may not work looking at them and my AAC 51T muzzle device. They were only $20 so I'll get them anyways but I'll probably need a different wrench. The directions said to use a torque wrench and crows feet so that's what I bought and since I'll be attaching a suppressor to it, I feel like I have to follow their torque guidelines exactly. if it was just a birdcage flash suppressor, I'd be way more comfortable with a crescent wrench.

 

[mrawesome22-250]

I've built quite a few ARs now and see no need for an armorers wrench unless I were to install a standard barrel nut. A quality handguard will have the wrench you need to attach to your torque wrench.

The best castle nut wrench is the BCM wrench that comes with their handguards and also works for the castle nut and is used with a torque wrench. It can be ordered for around $11 I believe.

I bought the Botach steel spline tool years ago. Great tool.

A punch set, grease, the castle nut wrench and the spline tool, 3/4" wrench for flash hiders.... not much is needed if you already own some tools.

I made a wood mallet out of an old table leg for tapping on punches and stuff.

Make sure to support under side ear while installing trigger guard so it doesn't snap off.

All torque specs are wet specs meaning the castle nut and barrel nut threads and their mating surfaces should be greased before torquing. Castle nut should be torqued to 38 to 42 lb ft and staked if you want to do it right. Castle nuts coming loose is the number one issue I see with home builds.

A piece of oak 1x3 held vertically in a vise makes a perfectly fine lower receiver block. Just be sure to wrap the base so the mag well bottom doesn't get scratched by the vise.

Never use the torque wrench to loosen. Tighten only. Use a breaker bar or ratchet for loosening.

Drape a loosely hanging towel in front of the receiver when installing the pivot pin detent. This will act as a nice soft backstop for when the detent goes flying on your first few attempts.

 

[redcon1]

Awesome. thanks...mrawesome.

 

[mrawesome22-250]

No problem.

I would stay away from using magnetic trays. You don't want magnetic AR parts. Especially the bolt. Tupperwear bowls or old coffee cans.

Those tiny artist brushes make it really easy to apply grease exactly where you want it while assembling without getting it all over the place.

 

[mjsdwash]

Glad I asked before I bought, Thanks. I was reviewing castle nut staking and removal and what not and that's what got me thinking about these wrenches. I'll get the castle nut wrench and not overspend on other stuff then.
ETA: just ordered a $10 castle nut wrench that some random guy said worked perfectly. We'll see.

Perfect. If you build the lower, theres some good tricks too.

 

[BBBBill]

A decent bench block (I have steel and plastic blocks) is required for lots of gunsmithing tasks and is very handy for backing the receiver trigger guard tabs when installing the trigger guard if you use a punch to do the install. You can make a good bench block from a hockey puck. If you're installing GI barrel nuts then a common barrel nut wrench will work fine. If you're installing aftermarket handguards with their own proprietary barrel nut then the proper wrench should come in the box with the handguard.