building ar15 - tools

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trigga

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i'm in the process of parting together a complete upper in 300 blackout. it's going to have a 16" barrel and midwest ind. T-10 rail. need suggestions on tools like what works for you, cheap or expensive. here's what i was considering buying.. this is my first build. kind of on a budget right now so if there is any suggestions on something else i may need or a different tool please add. thanks. (I may build a lower for it later)


http://www.amazon.com/Sports-AR15-C...04025188&sr=8-4&keywords=AIM+Sports+AR15+Tool

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/31...per-and-lower-receiver-action-block-set-ar-15
 
I have the 2nd one, the upper and lower block. use it all the time, makes life a lot easier when working on an AR.

i don't have the fancy wrench. the MI forend comes with a socket for their barrel nut that attackes to a 1/2" socket wrench, but you could do the same thing with a belt (oil filter) wrench
 
I have that same block set, a DPMS multi tool and a harbor freight punch set.

Those three things will do everything you need on an AR until you get to milling 80% lowers.
 
I recently bought the Precision Reflex barrel nut wrench, best I have ever used
You need upper receiver action blocks and bolt carrier filler if you don't want to trash the receiver.

If you aren't going to suppress the weapon, I'm curious why you would want a .300 Blackout???
 
If you aren't going to suppress the weapon, I'm curious why you would want a .300 Blackout???

surpress? maybe some day but not anytime soon. i've been reading that people are having good results with this caliber on white tail and hogs. if anything and it doesn't work out, i can alway switch it to 223.
 
If you're shooting supersonic ammo you more or less have a 7.62x39 that works with standard AR mags and bolts.
 
If you aren't going to suppress the weapon, I'm curious why you would want a .300 Blackout???


Why is it that all the high speed low drag guys are surprised that a lightweight, ACCURATE, slick handling, adjustable for all shooters semi auto carbine that gets real close to replicating 30-30 ballistics is going to be popular amongst hunters in close in terrain?


I'm not so naive as to think 300blk will kill 30-30. But as new guns sold to folks on the beginning end of hunting 300blk will put a serious damper on the chances of a new lever gun being kids and beginners first gun going forward.
 
the ballistics and performance from what i've read is plenty for deer within 100-150 yards. most i've encounter is within 50. i usually hunt in deep wooded areas on a treestand and not open field.

planning on trying the barnes tac tx or nolser ballistic green tip. 115-125gr.
 
It's foolish to think the 300 BLK is good only when suppressed.

For building uppers, the easiest, most convenient tool for holding the assembly in the vise is the barrel extension torque tool
View attachment 702391

Geisselle markets a version of the same tool for more money. It does have flats to make clamping in a vise easier. They call it the "Reaction Rod"
View attachment 702392

I've used upper vise blocks and the extension rod. The rod is easier to use and gives you the option of rotating the upper to make certain tasks easier.

The extension rod and the Reaction Rod are available from Brownells and are worth the investment. You can buy the plain extension rod and save a few bucks, but you will need to grind the flats yourself. The flats are needed to allow the vise to hold the rod securely
 
Roll pin starter is highly recommended.
Painter's tape for protecting lower when driving pins.
Forget any of the fancy tools sold for installing the front detent. Pick up a 2x1/4" clevis pin at the hardware store. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/362116_How_to_install_the_front_Pivot_Pin_using_a__1_clevis_pin___56K_death.html

And honestly, if it's your first time, don't be embarrassed to do your assembly with the parts inside a clear dry cleaner's bag or gallon size ziplock.... it keeps those tiny parts from flying.
 
I have a similar ar15 multi tool and a set of punches from harbor freight. Masking tape or electrical tape is advised, as mentioned above, though I only really use it for assembling my lowers and the the FA pin.

I have never once had an issue with the pivot pin detent. I read all over the Internet about how much of a pain it was, but I found that if you take it slow and use one of a dozen methods (like those linked above) or even just take some time and extra care of where your fingers are placed, it is a non-issue. I think last time I used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the detent down on spring pressure, then simply popped the pin into place. That said, the OP was talking about assembling an upper, not a lower.


The couple barrels I've installed, I clamped the upper into a clamshell vise block, and I have not used a BCG replacement inside the upper. The rifles shoot fine, but now I'm wondering if there is risk of damage if torquing a barrel nut on without having something inside the upper...

BTW you folks are dangerously close to convincing me to go 300BO for my next rifle...
 
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so i placed an order on midway and took advantage of their $45 discount. I also placed an order for the barrel and upper receiver on CMMG. looks like the barrel has a 4-6 week wait. bummer but i'm not in a hurry to shoot it or anything. bought everything needed for parts plus the two tools above... I even ordered some 125gr nolser (green tip) bullets and loading dies to complete the project... looks like it's going to be a fun project.
 
for what i can build the lower for and what they charge for a complete upper, i can see why building one would be so much cheaper. again it depends on what you want really. i'm already thinking about building a budget standard 20" A2 and maybe even a retro A1
 
Definitely get a roll pin starter, I wish I had done that when I started building AR's, I have built plenty without it but it would have caused a lot less frustration. Also, get some nice brass punches and make sure you have a torque wrench.
 
looks like the barrel is back in stock on midway. everything should be here latest tuesday!
 
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