Press questions for new reoader

[ranger335v]

My main press has beena Rock Chucker sonce '87. It's an okay press but it lacks the nice user features of Lee's Classic Cast. If I had to replace my green RC tomorrow it would be red; I have no meaningless loyalty to inanimate objects and the CC is the better single stage of it's type available today.

While I don't luv Lee's lock rings they sure don't give me any problems, dies only adjust up and down and it's not very hard to accomplish.

Costly die quick-change gimmicks don't give me any warm fuzzy feelings. Hand tight is plenty tight for dies and I can easly screw exchange them in 45 seconds without hurrying, it's not a laborious task. Bottle neck dies have two in a set, straight walls get three; even if quick-change bushings made swaps instaneous I wouldn't save much time in a normal two hour loading session.

I dispise kits. No brand has a lock on the better tools across the board but with a kit everything will be the same color. Every truly experienced reloader I've ever met has a variety of tool brands on his bench.

 

[gspn]

This is a link from a "sticky" at the top of the reloading forum...it is one of the best starting points you will find on the World Wide Web:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=238214

 

[1SOW]

Lost Sheep and Ranger335v +1

The lee cast turret press is less expensive, easy to use and lasts a very long time.
It can be used as a single stage press or a faster self indexing turret press to pump out finished cartridges..
Changing calibers: By buying a $12 head and another Powder Disc system, you can change calibers in less than 30 seconds by shutting off the powder hopper and twisting the head to remove and replace it with another one with a powder hopper and the dies already set up.

As mentioned above, the "Pro-Powder Disc" sytem really works well with the exception of of large flake and large rod powders. The Pro system is much more durable and can be shut off when emptying or changing powders. This system is uber consistent with ball and small rod powders like WIN/HP-58, AA, Vihtavuori and many other similar in particle size.

re the plastic square ratchet (50cents). Have a few spares when you start, because most will screw it up until they figure out how it disengages when you move the arm UP 1 inch or so. Even then you may need one every 10-20 thousand rds or so. I load and shoot over two hundred rds/week and sometimes just change to a new one when I'm thoroughly cleaning the press- once/year or less.

I use the LEE scale because I have it, and it is very accurate and consistent while being a minor PITA to zero and set up. IF I didn't have it, I'd get a 505 or the Dillon version of the same OHaus scale for less money. Mine is on a shelf at eye level and in a small "barn" made for it---it never moves.

I've been loading on a Lee turret for straight wall pistol for over 10-11 years??--time flies.

 

[Potatohead]

Of the three basic types of locking rings, everyone has their preference.

The Lee friction-fit with the "O" ring, the RCBS type with the set screw that engages the threads on the die (either directly, with a lead pellet or a plastic pellet) or my preferred, the Split-ring as used by Hornady.

I find the Lee rings usable. I find the Split rings the most secure. And the RCBS type my least preferred. But that, by no means, casts doubt on your preference.

Lost Sheep

I might give those Hornadys a shot. What is their M.O. exactly?

 

[ATLDave]

Here's another vote for the (good) Lee turret press. I just got started reloading last year, and have cranked many thousands of rounds out on it. It's easy, reasonably priced, very sturdy, faster than a single stage... If you're only going to load two cartridges, you can just swap out the whole turret ring - IIRC, a spare turret ring costs ~$10. Changing cartridges would take less than a minute that way (setting aside whatever changes you do for powder throwing).

 

[splattergun]

Of the three basic types of locking rings, everyone has their preference.

The Lee friction-fit with the "O" ring, the RCBS type with the set screw that engages the threads on the die (either directly, with a lead pellet or a plastic pellet) or my preferred, the Split-ring as used by Hornady.

I find the Lee rings usable. I find the Split rings the most secure. And the RCBS type my least preferred. But that, by no means, casts doubt on your preference.

Lost Sheep

Lee does now have a set screw-type lock ring. I'm using them now and I'm quite happy with them. I didn't have a problem with the O-ring lock rings, but the set screw just feels more solid and gives me a better sense of security.

 

[Potatohead]

Good to know. Most of my O-rings are fine but I had trouble with the one on the seater die. It just doesn't want to screw right, lots of friction, like the O-ring is flipping over or bunching up as your screwing the lock nut.

 

[Lost Sheep]

I might give those Hornadys a shot. What is their M.O. exactly?

I am not feeling eloquent enough right now to describe it any better than this site does in its descriptive text at the top.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1165236200/hornady-sure-loc-die-locking-ring-7-8-14-thread

scroll down a little and see the Forster split ring (better picture than Hornady's) and I think it will be clear.

A set screw grips the die's threads in one spot. Tightening the entire ring grips the threads over the entire circumference.

Lost Sheep

 

[cfullgraf]

The Lee lock rings are quite terrible IMO. I ordered some RCBS ones.

To add my opinion to Lost Sheep's...

Once a die is set, I rarely move the lock ring. So, I much prefer a lock ring that locks to the die either by being split or a set screw.

I also like the split lock rings best. The Hornady rings have flats on them that permit the use of an open end wrench. Hornady and Sinclair International make nice special purpose wrenches or you can drag out the old adjustable.

I do not mind the RCBS set screw type but do not prefer it. For reloading, the set screw does not need to be "hawged" down to provide enough locking force to prevent the lock ring from moving. But, for many, if tight is good then tighter is better and that runs the risk of damaging the threads.

Unless you use something like the Lee turrets, Lee Breech Lock bushings or Hornady's L-N-L bushings, Lee o-ring lock rings are not suitable for retaining settings. If a turret or bushing are used, the Lee lock ring can be tightened then when changing dies, the dies and lock rings are not disturbed during the change. No change in setting.

If, on the other hand, you have to unscrew the Lee die from the press to change it, you will lose a die setting at some time. Since the o-ring lock ring is not positively locked to the die, it is difficult to always have the die and ring move together every time. Many folks will take issue with this and claim they can remove or install the die without moving the ring. Having designed and worked with mechanical equipment for many years, I know the Lee o-ring lock rings are just not 100% reliable at holding their settings in this situation. (I have used two Lee nuts jammed together to insure the setting is maintained but some dies do not have enough threads)

I do find uses for the o-ring lock rings, I have one on my powder cop dies on my Hornady and RCBS progressive presses. The dies get re-adjusted at every cartridge change and not having to fool with tools to do so is handy. Once set, the dies maintain their setting for the duration.

I have used the o-ring lock rings on powder measures mounted in a bench stand. I have several powder measures which get swapped between a storage stand and the bench stand and the o-ring lock rings allow me to make the change and snug down the powder measures without getting out tools.

Over the years, I have found other uses for them as well. They just do not perform as die lock rings for me.

Of course, my opinion and $5 will get you a designer coffee.

 

[Elkins45]

The Lee lock rings are quite terrible IMO. I ordered some RCBS ones.

The Lee lock rings are perfectly functional if you are using them in a turret press where you just swap out the turret every time you change calibers.

I will agree they are a bit tricky in a single stage press, but if you mark an index mark on the die and the ring with a Sharpie you can correct any minor misalignment that happens. Over the years I have found them to be more consistent than my first impression led me to believe they would be.

 

[RealGun]

I might give those Hornadys a shot. What is their M.O. exactly?

I can't use Hornadys on a Lee Turret, because there isn't room. The dies are packed in tighter than they would be on a 5-station Hornady Lnl AP. The Lee rings work, but a skinny lock ring for the same price would be an appealing alternative. Basically though, it ain't broke.

I also use alignment marks using a Sharpie marker.

 

[GT1]

I had seen those but had seen some reviews on google that the index feature on it was prone to breaking. Can anyone comment on this?

I have the press. I read the same thing as you, bought a half dozen little ratchet squares in case. They are designed to break so you don't damage more expensive parts.

Still on the first after a couple thousand rounds, so it is a non-issue, but feel free to pick up a couple dollars worth, probably last a couple lifetimes.


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Funny, I have replaced all my other brand dies rings with Lee's, I like them.


I think a single stage only press is a horrible way to start if you plan on shooting those pistols very much. Or unless you have plenty of free time and are looking for some reloading zen thing....

 

[Lloyd Smale]

rock chucker or a hornady lock and load single stage are hard to beat. Even if you someday step up to a progressive loader a good single stage press will allways have its uses. I still have the same rockchucker i bought about 40 years ago and it still works like new.

 

[Potatohead]

Those hornady lock rings look like the best idea I've seen.