Primer and Powder question

Status
Not open for further replies.

FuzzyBunny

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
690
Location
Texas
I am on the road to reloading.
I'm buying supplies a piece at a time. Like building a car from pieces you come across.

Anyway I found a tumbler (old wood one) that holds about 4 or so gallons if filled with water. Needed reworking so I did that. Got 2 electronic scales, 3 calipers few hundred pounds of empty brass and other assorted supplies. Those I have bought new or used and rebuilt.

I have not bought the dillion press yet but it is time to buy primers and powder and bullets as I do not see them getting cheaper!

Would you folks be kind enough to tell me this. I am going to reload
7.62x51
5.56
.45
possibly 9mm

Most all will be hardball if that matters.
I want to start buying powder and primers and even bullets I find on sale. Can you tell me what size primers and what powder I need for each calibre?

I have a relative that was a reloader that has died and I still have to make a 1,000 mile drive to pick up what he left me. I do know he has some powder jugs but they are at least 4 years old and I think it best not to use a powder I did not buy myself new. I do not know if he has primers but I'm sure he does.

He has other reloading stuff but the executor has no idea what is in all the reloading boxes and will not even send me a pic because "It is all dusty out there" geez. I do know he has 6 or so reloading books, but I never bothered to see which ones. also at least 2 (green) triple beam balance scales.

Anyway I'm on the road to reloading and I want to do it right with all the gear in place before I even start. I am at the point now where I have a spot to build a bench but that will wait.

I want to start getting powder and primers now while I can afford it.
If you guys can poibt me in the right powder/primers to get or even what brand or whatever to avoid I will really appreciate it. For some reason I have a gut feeling that by September the cost will be MUCH higher.

I love woodworking and shooting but I have to choose one or the other. As much as I like cabinet making I think reloading is the way to go because I already know how to butcher wood.

BTW I'm not really looking for loading data just the right brand and powder number for wach round.. Thanks
 
First of all welcome to reloading. It's great to see new interest in our great past-time. Even though you will obtain a lot of great information from fellow reloaders I would highly recommend the investment in a good reloading manual. There are many differest manuals available but these manuals offer a great deal of information for both beginners and avid reloaders and will prove to be priceless in the amount of data offered.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/484416/lee-modern-reloading-2nd-edition-reloading-manual

http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/21...dbook-49th-edition-reloading-manual-softcover
 
7.62x51 = Large Rifle primer
5.56 = Small rifle primer
.45 = Large Pistol primer
9mm = Small pistol primer.

Varget, W-748, BL-C(2), or IMR-4895 could be used in both rifle calibers and do a pretty good job of it.

Unique, W-231, or HS-6 could be used in both pistol calibers and do a pretty good job of it.

But your reloading manual could have told you all of that.
You do have a reloading manual, don't you?

rc
 
I don't know what reloading manuals are waiting for me with the gear now. Yes, I intend to dive deep into the books long before I ever even think about putting a round together. I find doing things right the first time saves me a ton of time. In this case possible body parts too.
 
I'm with RC on the rifle powders. Some manuals recomend magnum primers with ball powders ( WIN 748 & BL-C 2 in this case ). In order to limit my needed stock I work up all of my rifle loads with magnum primers. Keep in mind if you change a component you should always work up from a near minimum charge again. Just one example of ways to limit the components you keep on hand. When you get going you will be amazed at the little things you suddenly decide you need and how fast they tend to accumulate.
The ABC's of reloading will get you going in a good direction. I also like Lee's modern reloading though they are pushing their product. Some really great info in these books so get started reading now.
Welcome to the best place I've ever found to ask questions. There are no stupid questions so ask since it is far better than taking risks or being injured.
T
 
If your relative who passed had a Lyman Reloading manual, 49th edition, that is a good manual with lots of data and good information.

I don't reload pistol, but for 7.62x51 (aka .308 Win) any large rifle primer will work. For 5.56 (aka .223 Rem) you will need small rifle primers. In your reloading manual(s) they may be listed as LR and SR.

By the way, I don't know where you got your brass, but if it is used, be sure of the type of primer the case requires. There are two types, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primed cases simply have a single flash hole where the primer goes, but Berdan primed cases have two small flash holes and cannot be deprimed with the same equipment that is used for Boxer primed cases. If you attempt to deprime Berdan primed cases with a standard depriming pin, you will bend or break the depriming pin. Berdan primed cases require a different depriming device.

You can see the difference in the photo at

http://www.texasboars.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14755

Welcome to reloading and the High Road.
 
Has anyone had any problems with Winchester Small Rifle primers? I just bought a box and started to have loading problems. On closer inspection the anvil appears to be sticking out of the cup by almost .015 inch. Tried to contact Winchester about it, not looking to get refund or anything, just trying to get some answers. Couldn't even find a phone number or an e-mail address for customer service.
 
The Sierra reloading manual is one of the most complete I have found. It has a lot of good educational info as well as recipes. The Lyman manual is good also especially for cast lead bullets.

These days I prefer CCI brand primers for general purpose ammo both rifle and pistol.
 
What you will find out is there's at least a dozen good powders for any given load. You'll get a lot of good advice and different recommendations, I'm sure. Just pick one or two and stick to the load books.

The perennial favorite powders for .223 seem to be H335 or Varget. I tried both powders, and I'm sticking with H335, cuz it meters better, goes down the funnel faster, and it doesn't smell horrible. All I have is a 1.5x scope and no place to bench it, so they're all accurate to me.

I load 45ACP pretty much exclusively with Unique. I load 9mm mostly with Unique, too.
 
Last edited:
DEREK
I only use Win small rifle magnum primers so I cant say much about the WIN standard SRP but I would think they use the same cup. Have had no trouble seating them in uncrimped brass. The problem is that their seems to be more crimped brass from commercial loads these days. I recently had some Hornandy superperformance .223 bullets that were crimped not dimpled but ring crimped. Needless to say I was scratching my head for a bit before it dawned on me to really look at them. Thought it was a problem with the primers or the priming arm.
Sorry that was a longwinded way to say are you sure the cases arent crimped.
If they are truly bad please post a lot number for the rest of us.
Thanks
T
 
For the calibers you listed I personally have had fantastic results with Varget for the rifles an Universal Clays for handgun. While I haven't loaded .45 with the UC I have loaded 9mm and medium powers 44 mag with it. I would think it would be just fine. Universal Clays and Unique are right next to each other on the burn chart and are both great. In my experience the UC is cleaner in the gun and meters WAY better.
 
On the old powder, I have some that was given to me that was made in the 1980's and it is still in great shape. The stuf lasts a LONG time if it is stored well. Just make sure it doesn't smell rancid or have a rusty look to it. It should smell kind of like a solvent.

Ive even recently finished off all the primers a older gentlemen have me a couple years ago. They were from the 1970 and were stored out in a barn in the humid east Texas piney woods for the last few years before I got them. ALL 1000+ have worked flawlessly!
 
Like said above, 4895, BL-C(2), W748 and I'll add Varget will do a good job with the rifle calibers. If you are willing to use 2 powders i would also suggest H335 for loading your 5.56mm ammo.

I'm a huge fan of W231 (HP-38) for loading both handgun calibers. I use almost nothing else for both. AA#5 is also a ball powder which meters well and will work well with both.

Also like said above, you will need all 4 types of primers for loading the calibers you chose. There's no way around it unless you can find a large amount of small primer 45 Auto brass which is not that easy to find in quantity.

I'm also a fan of the newest Lyman manual, the 49th Edition. Most of the "big name" manuals are good and you might want more than one. When you see which manuals you have waiting for you, you can decide if they are fairly current or if you need to buy. Another good data source is supplied by the powder companies. They all have an online load data source...

Hodgdon/ IMR/ Winchester load data.
Alliant Powders loading data.
Accurate Powders loading data.
Ramshot Powders loading data.
Norma Powders loading data.
VihtaVuori loading data.

Barns Bullets also supplies specific load data for their bullets as does Nosler Bullets.

There are probably more but I just can't remember any others right now. I hope that helps a little.

Welcome to the forum and reloading.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top