Primer Sealing Dilemma

[BattleChimp Potemkin]

I was loading some of my M855 loads (25gr. H335, non-loaded SS109 projectiles) this weekend. I loaded 50 of them, but while loading, I began to seal the primers using nail polish (blue, like some of the cool Federal M193). I put a small smear of it around the primer wall (? terminology?) in the primer hole, then seated the primer, wiped the excess off, then put it aside. The sealant was not slopped on, nor does any of it touch anywhere near the flashhole. I did 50, then thought, well I can take a rag soaked with mineral spirits, put some nail polish on it, then wipe the non-sealed, primed case to seal it, ensuring a more consistent and cleaner seal. It works! I did about 350 more rounds like that before calling it a night.

But my question regards the 50 loaded by the previous method: Will putting sealer on the sides of the primer cup cause it to back out upon firing? Would it potentially make it too slick to hold on, and cause it to back out? Priming pressure was about equal with a unsealed as a sealed. I would like to hope that these are to be used with the same confidence as the others.

BTW: The second method works great. I called a friend of mine who does that and got his recipe for that after I told him what I was doing. He put a few rounds in water for a week, took it out and all 30 fired (he actually put a whole AR mag filled into the water ).

 

[rcmodel]

I would neither seal the primers, or especially, wipe them with a mineral spirits soaked rag.

First, it isn't necessary.
And second, mineral spirits can't be good for the primers or powder if any of it seeps into the case.

IMO: The further away you can keep handloads from petroleum solvents or oil the better!

rcmodel

 

[The Bushmaster]

What?? you planin' on shootin' them under water? I've hunted in some of the wettest climates in this country (Cascades of Washington in October/Novermber) and never had a problem with my reloads in the rain without sealent for the primers...Waste of time...Why bother...??

 

[NavajoNPaleFace]

Sealing the primers is an unneeded chore.

 

[dirtman]

I have fired about 100 or so under saltwater. 308 & 223... using power heads.... under water spears with special heads for the bullets.... we always used Hard as Nails.... which ladies use over their nail polish.... it seals very well and when u bust the cap ... it goes bang and your target is instantly immobilized, massive embolism as this is a point blank hit and all the gas enters the target... very effective... but hardly needed for normal hunting....

 

[BattleChimp Potemkin]

Well, Keep in mind gentlemen, M855 isnt exactly hunting ammo

I dont think there is enough of the mineral spirits to seep in, its mostly to keep the nail polish from seeping into the rag and making it a costly process.

I understand that it is an uneeded process, but it's a niceity I would like to try once in a while, just for the heck of it . Plus military ammo is sealed, this M855 is for "strategic reserve" only!

But to the question regarding the first method of sealing (putting a bead of sealer around the primer hole (but not on the flashhole area), would this make the primer back out?

 

[dirtman]

I always seal my underwater ammo.... "Hard as nails" has always worked best for me... I take the live round and seal where the bullet meets the brass and also the primer cap face out side only... I have been doing it that way since 1967 and have never had a misfire... I am still an active PADI dive master #209266 with a few thousand ocean dives, good luck with your "strategic reserve" and I hope none of us ever need it....... I have not had any primer back out issues.

 

[GaryL]

Typical factory sealed primers are sealed right after the primer is inserted, with something that looks and smells like diluted nail polish.

There's no harm in doing it, but give the sealant a few minutes to dry before going to the next step.

Maybe not likely to happen, but there is some advantage to preventing possible contaminants from the powder that gets ignited first, minimizing the risk of a squib or hangfire.

 

[rcmodel]

GI primers are sealed with thinned lacquer.

You can get lacquer & lacquer thinner at most any hobby shop.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFLE0&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFLF5&P=7

To apply:
1. Thin a small amount in a container to the consistancy of water.
2. Pick up a drop on a toothpick, and run it around the seated primer.
3. Stand the round in a loading block to dry.

Applying sealer to a primer pocket before seating will not work as it is all scraped off by the tight fitting primer.

BTW: There is also this:
http://www.cabelas.com/prod-1/0003180210621a.shtml

rcmodel