aerod1
Member
Which is most desirable the "Lee Loadmaster" or the "Lee Pro 1000" and why is it more desirable?
Pro 1000 0r Loadmaster
- Thread starter aerod1
- Start date
- Status
FlyinBryan
Member
i think ive heard grizz talking about being pretty proud of his loadmaster, and i share his sentiment if so.
saturday morning the range opened at 10am. a friend, my brother, and I were planning to meet there at 10 sharp and were all shooting a match that required 100rds each. i had no ammo loaded.
its a 20 minute drive from my house to the range.
i dragged myself out of bed at 8:00, put on a pot of coffee, and turned on the a/c in my shop. i then stuffed 15 case feeder tubes with shiny 45acp brass. (the tubes are 6 bux per 4 pack and i keep a few of them around) you just dump out a bucket of brass and lay a tube with the end near the pile and start shoving them in. when its full (20 45 acp) set it aside and repeat. this took maybe 10 minutes then i went back in and kicked back with a cup of joe.
by the time i came back out to the shop it was nice and cool and 9:00.
i started pulling the handle and setting bullets and at 9:20 i was done.
300 perfect rounds of 45acp in 20 minutes without breaking a sweat.
met at the range and shot a great match.
i didnt win but my ammo did, lol, my bud always beats me by 3-4 points.
i love my loadmaster.
saturday morning the range opened at 10am. a friend, my brother, and I were planning to meet there at 10 sharp and were all shooting a match that required 100rds each. i had no ammo loaded.
its a 20 minute drive from my house to the range.
i dragged myself out of bed at 8:00, put on a pot of coffee, and turned on the a/c in my shop. i then stuffed 15 case feeder tubes with shiny 45acp brass. (the tubes are 6 bux per 4 pack and i keep a few of them around) you just dump out a bucket of brass and lay a tube with the end near the pile and start shoving them in. when its full (20 45 acp) set it aside and repeat. this took maybe 10 minutes then i went back in and kicked back with a cup of joe.
by the time i came back out to the shop it was nice and cool and 9:00.
i started pulling the handle and setting bullets and at 9:20 i was done.
300 perfect rounds of 45acp in 20 minutes without breaking a sweat.
met at the range and shot a great match.
i didnt win but my ammo did, lol, my bud always beats me by 3-4 points.
i love my loadmaster.
Griz44
Member
Guess I better tune in and make my comments. Yes I have a loadmaster, and did not start out on a single stage, but went straight for the progressive. I loaded in single stage mode for a while to get used to the feel and the settings, but not for long. I load a lot of 45acp, burn 200-500 a week. The case feeder setup is cool, instead of extra tubes I got the collator, takes about 15 seconds to load all 4 tubes with brass. I also got extra primer trays, so when I start a session, I can go through my 500 without a major stoppage. I enjoy it, and it makes good ammo. The major difference between the two is the 5th station that you do not get on the 1000. You may never need the 5th station, but it is nice if you are going to crimp post seat instead of with the seating die. I get better consistency by doing this. The tool heads are only 10 bucks, so setting up for other calibers and not having to change dies out is a real plus. I can change primer size, shell plate and tool head for another caliber is 3 minutes, and that taking time to clean and grease the in the process. Getting everthing ready ahead of time, and not getting in any hurry at all, I will crank out 500 rounds in a little over and hour and a half. I take my time cause I want to be careful and I don't want it to be over too quickly. I use the Loadmaster for 45 acp, 40 S&W, .308, .270, 30-06 and 45 LC. It easily handles all of them and makes good ammunition.
evan price
Member
I use a Pro-1000, and it gets me 300 rounds per hour with me breaking a sweat. The Pro1K has three-station turrets, so you can't post-size/crimp, but I use the Lee 3-die sets and have no use for a factory crimp die so it's just fine by me. Once the adjustments are set initially it just keeps cranking out ammo.
The most finicky adjustment is the timing of the shellplate- if it is too fast or too slow the primers misfeed and you get sideways or upside down primers. It's just a phillips screw to adjust. Once you get it dialed in it runs and runs.
The case collator funnel is worth having, just dump a handful of cases in there and jiggle, it fills the tubes for you.
At $150 including dies it's cheap enough to try one out. Caliber conversions are pretty simple and not that expensive, and spare parts are cheap.
Only drawback is that it is limited to short ammo. .44 Mag is fine, .223 is fine, anything taller may not work.
The most finicky adjustment is the timing of the shellplate- if it is too fast or too slow the primers misfeed and you get sideways or upside down primers. It's just a phillips screw to adjust. Once you get it dialed in it runs and runs.
The case collator funnel is worth having, just dump a handful of cases in there and jiggle, it fills the tubes for you.
At $150 including dies it's cheap enough to try one out. Caliber conversions are pretty simple and not that expensive, and spare parts are cheap.
Only drawback is that it is limited to short ammo. .44 Mag is fine, .223 is fine, anything taller may not work.
aerod1
Member
Well, I have the (cast) LCT and love it. My best friend has had a Pro 1000 for about 12 years. It is still in the box in his garage and I keep telling him that is a waste. I love my LCT and will probably never move past that but I was just wondering which is the best. I still use a single stage for rifle even though my LCT can be used as a single stage. I'm one of those guys who thinks (knows) Lee makes great products for the money, which allows us poor working (and retired) stiffs to enjoy reloading without breaking the bank.
jfh
Member.
I own both the Pro 1000 and Load-Master--and I vastly prefer the Load-Master, for the reaons mostly covered by previous posters.
There is, IMO, a steep learning curve to it--but on-line support abounds in the Load-Master Forum, and on You-Tube. I've got mine tweaked up now, and load 450-600 rounds per hour whenever I want to--I leave it set up for my current cartridge, and use it with a 5-die setup.
I have since de-mounted the Pro 1000 and plan to sell it one of these days. Either press works fine--but the Load-Master clearly offers much more flexibility.
Combine a Load-Master with a Classic Cast Turret on the same bench, there is no reloading goal that cannot be quickly and easily handled--save for, maybe, long-distance / benchrest cartridge assembly.
Jim H.
There is, IMO, a steep learning curve to it--but on-line support abounds in the Load-Master Forum, and on You-Tube. I've got mine tweaked up now, and load 450-600 rounds per hour whenever I want to--I leave it set up for my current cartridge, and use it with a 5-die setup.
I have since de-mounted the Pro 1000 and plan to sell it one of these days. Either press works fine--but the Load-Master clearly offers much more flexibility.
Combine a Load-Master with a Classic Cast Turret on the same bench, there is no reloading goal that cannot be quickly and easily handled--save for, maybe, long-distance / benchrest cartridge assembly.
Jim H.
I have a Load Master and absolutely love it. That thing cranks out ammo crazy fast. It takes a bit longer to set up than some other presses, but once it is, look out. Setting it up is the the key. Lee is a bit lacking in that area BUT, do yourself a favor and look at all the videos on YouTube for setting up the Load Master. I'm very pleased with mine. It is a fully progressive machine and probably the best value of any progressive out there. I can't speak about the 1000. I know a lot of people who crimp and seat in one operation without a problem but I've never been a fan of that practice. I don't think the cost of the Load Master is terribly more than the 1000 and for that reason, I'd get the Load Master. The best value in a progressive machine, period.
Bronson7
Bronson7
ForneyRider
Member
I have the Pro 1000 that originally came as a kit for .41 magnum.
I have purchased most of the types of extras for this machine. Extra turrets, extra shellplates, all the case feeders(small pistol, large pistol, rifle), double-disk setup, case collator, adjustable charge bar, rifle charging die, universal charging die, etc, etc, etc.
Case collator works great. have yet to have a flipped case. You add about 50 cases at a time, and shake. Yep, a Dillon or Hornady setup has higher capacity.
I also have a single stage (Lee breech lock kit) setup. I do the decapping and Lee factory crimp die on that machine. After having good luck without using the Factory crimp die, I am done after the Pro 1000 spits em out.
You can load pistol, .223 and similar, and .308 Win and derivatives.
I load my dad's .22-250 on it. Which is based on .250-3000 Savage. I think the Savage is based on 7x57 Mauser.
It is too short to do a .30-06 or belted magnum type cartridge.
Kudos to anyone that can successfully prime with the primer setup. I hand prime.
+1 on keeping shellplate timing adjustment to get good consistent primer loading. Also keep it clean, lubed, and free of burrs.
I get frustrated with it from time to time with flimsy parts and constant maintenance. But I do crank out a lot of excellent ammo. It is a lot of fun to pull the handle, add a bullet and get a new loaded round.
I have purchased most of the types of extras for this machine. Extra turrets, extra shellplates, all the case feeders(small pistol, large pistol, rifle), double-disk setup, case collator, adjustable charge bar, rifle charging die, universal charging die, etc, etc, etc.
Case collator works great. have yet to have a flipped case. You add about 50 cases at a time, and shake. Yep, a Dillon or Hornady setup has higher capacity.
I also have a single stage (Lee breech lock kit) setup. I do the decapping and Lee factory crimp die on that machine. After having good luck without using the Factory crimp die, I am done after the Pro 1000 spits em out.
You can load pistol, .223 and similar, and .308 Win and derivatives.
I load my dad's .22-250 on it. Which is based on .250-3000 Savage. I think the Savage is based on 7x57 Mauser.
It is too short to do a .30-06 or belted magnum type cartridge.
Kudos to anyone that can successfully prime with the primer setup. I hand prime.
+1 on keeping shellplate timing adjustment to get good consistent primer loading. Also keep it clean, lubed, and free of burrs.
I get frustrated with it from time to time with flimsy parts and constant maintenance. But I do crank out a lot of excellent ammo. It is a lot of fun to pull the handle, add a bullet and get a new loaded round.
Loadmaster
As stated the main differences are the extra stations and the ability to load larger rifle/pistol versus small rifle (223 etc)/pistol. I had looked into the 1000 but opted for the Loadmaster as I like to crimp in a different stage (454 casull reloader), reload large rifle, and liked the rugged appearance of the press. There are many mixed results on the Loadmaster and there are tons of forums concerning the topic. Once set up properly though the Loadmaster performs without a hitch, but one needs to be patient during setup and make sure everything is adjusted properly. If one chooses a Loadmaster I highly recommend the website: Loadmaster Zone @ http://loadmastervideos.com/
You will immediately see that the factory directions are less than desirable so having videos helps tremendously.
The videos eliminated errors as well as saves time and parts, in fact I have yet to ruin a single part even the plastic ones that people are so concerned about. Yes, I did mention there are plastic parts and if you look at the Dillon or Hornady presses they all have plastic too. I see plastic as a good thing on the Loadmaster as these parts are very inexpensive $1 and help save the more expensive ones (simply have spares so if you the operator accidentally messes up you are not left without ammo).
I took a good 3 hours from mounting, to making the case ejector modification (Loadmaster Zone video), to lubing, to running dry runs before I started to reload single rounds. Reloading about 50 single rounds to fully see how the press ran I then move to full progressive. By the second reloading session I was off and going with out any setbacks.
Progressive presses in general: AGAIN BE PATIENT during setup as all progressive presses have problems at first, but more so with Lee progressives as I don't think lee presses leave the factory with such watchful eyes as Dillon or Hornady and I believe this is why the Loadmaster and Pro 1000 receive such bad reviews. People expect to pull these Lee machines from the box and have them index and feed primers correctly with no adjustments and I will tell you, this is not probable.
I also suggest if one decides Loadmaster that you size at the same time you prime (station 2) as this keeps the brass in place while priming. A good tip for indexing problems deals with the case ejector. Look on Loadmaster zone on the case ejector modification indexing problems as this eliminated all my indexing problems.
Here is the truth! I am a cost efficient person and will look towards finding products that are reliable at a better price. I was a Dillon owner by family trend, father was a Dillon man, and although the Dillon 650 is a nicer finished machine and had fewer issues out of the box it cost 3 times as much and caliber changes were much more expensive than a lee. I sold the 650 to a Dillon nut and now own two Loadmasters and still have not reached the cost of the Dillon. I did not have the case feeder with the Dillon as it would cost more than an entire lee loadmaster kit so again the Loadmaster prevails as it comes with this. I actually bought my loadmasters as rebuilt or reconditioned for $175 shipped directly from Lee Precision. They were both kits so I had everything I needed except the extra die for crimping and the universal decaping die (used in station 1). I could actually buy another Loadmaster and would be getting closer in cost to the Dillon 650 with all the caliber changes.
IMO the Loadmaster is a better machine because of my needs. One of my friends has a Pro 1000 and likes his too (reloads pistol only), but they all must be setup correctly. The Pro 1000 was the machine that tempted me to buy the loadmaster and glad I am as I now have one setup for small primers and the other setup for large primers. They both are running very well with no problems.
As stated the main differences are the extra stations and the ability to load larger rifle/pistol versus small rifle (223 etc)/pistol. I had looked into the 1000 but opted for the Loadmaster as I like to crimp in a different stage (454 casull reloader), reload large rifle, and liked the rugged appearance of the press. There are many mixed results on the Loadmaster and there are tons of forums concerning the topic. Once set up properly though the Loadmaster performs without a hitch, but one needs to be patient during setup and make sure everything is adjusted properly. If one chooses a Loadmaster I highly recommend the website: Loadmaster Zone @ http://loadmastervideos.com/
You will immediately see that the factory directions are less than desirable so having videos helps tremendously.
The videos eliminated errors as well as saves time and parts, in fact I have yet to ruin a single part even the plastic ones that people are so concerned about. Yes, I did mention there are plastic parts and if you look at the Dillon or Hornady presses they all have plastic too. I see plastic as a good thing on the Loadmaster as these parts are very inexpensive $1 and help save the more expensive ones (simply have spares so if you the operator accidentally messes up you are not left without ammo).
I took a good 3 hours from mounting, to making the case ejector modification (Loadmaster Zone video), to lubing, to running dry runs before I started to reload single rounds. Reloading about 50 single rounds to fully see how the press ran I then move to full progressive. By the second reloading session I was off and going with out any setbacks.
Progressive presses in general: AGAIN BE PATIENT during setup as all progressive presses have problems at first, but more so with Lee progressives as I don't think lee presses leave the factory with such watchful eyes as Dillon or Hornady and I believe this is why the Loadmaster and Pro 1000 receive such bad reviews. People expect to pull these Lee machines from the box and have them index and feed primers correctly with no adjustments and I will tell you, this is not probable.
I also suggest if one decides Loadmaster that you size at the same time you prime (station 2) as this keeps the brass in place while priming. A good tip for indexing problems deals with the case ejector. Look on Loadmaster zone on the case ejector modification indexing problems as this eliminated all my indexing problems.
Here is the truth! I am a cost efficient person and will look towards finding products that are reliable at a better price. I was a Dillon owner by family trend, father was a Dillon man, and although the Dillon 650 is a nicer finished machine and had fewer issues out of the box it cost 3 times as much and caliber changes were much more expensive than a lee. I sold the 650 to a Dillon nut and now own two Loadmasters and still have not reached the cost of the Dillon. I did not have the case feeder with the Dillon as it would cost more than an entire lee loadmaster kit so again the Loadmaster prevails as it comes with this. I actually bought my loadmasters as rebuilt or reconditioned for $175 shipped directly from Lee Precision. They were both kits so I had everything I needed except the extra die for crimping and the universal decaping die (used in station 1). I could actually buy another Loadmaster and would be getting closer in cost to the Dillon 650 with all the caliber changes.
IMO the Loadmaster is a better machine because of my needs. One of my friends has a Pro 1000 and likes his too (reloads pistol only), but they all must be setup correctly. The Pro 1000 was the machine that tempted me to buy the loadmaster and glad I am as I now have one setup for small primers and the other setup for large primers. They both are running very well with no problems.
Last edited:
For about the same price point as the Loadmaster, I have the Pro1000 dedicated to one pistol cartridge caliber that I shoot a lot and the LEE Classic Turret press for everything else. In my experience, the Pro1000 is a hassle when converting to different calibers and tweaking it to work reliably. The LCT is far easier and much quicker to switch over and it works great. I don't think that progressives are worth the hassle or cost for lower volume cartridges. In those cases, 150 to 200 rounds per hour of the LCT is fast enough for me. - Phil
Last edited:
nambu1
Member
I have a Pro 1000 and do not regret buying it. I usually leave it set-up for 38/357.
burningsquirrels
Member
i use a loadmaster and do everything on the press.
Steel Talon
Member
Loadnaster is the way to go...
rodregier
Member
I've owned both the Pro 1000 and Loadmaster. I've since sold the Pro 1000. They both have a learning curve, the YouTube videos are a good reference. Wish the videos had been available when I was getting up-to-speed on the Loadmaster. My biggest issues with both was priming, that's the tricky bit. I had powder measure issues too, but I have learned the fix.
On the powder measure, use the setup with the pull-back chain, not the return spring. Avoid the adjustable cavity measure, stick to the fixed discs. The extra dry lube and off/on feature of the deluxe measure makes it a good choice.
On the powder measure, use the setup with the pull-back chain, not the return spring. Avoid the adjustable cavity measure, stick to the fixed discs. The extra dry lube and off/on feature of the deluxe measure makes it a good choice.
burningsquirrels
Member
what powder measure issues did you have?
Griz44
Member
I use the Pro auto disk for pistol and the Perect Powder for rifle. The auto disk does not handle long grain powders very well, and the Perfect does not handle small charges of fine ball, so I have both. Actually, I have several of both, but that's in another thread.
SSN Vet
Member
can you mount the Perfect Powder Measure on a Load Master? I've only seen them bench mounted for single stage guys.
Griz44
Member
Yes it will mount quite nicely. If you get the Lee universal powder charging die it comes with the linkage and adapter for automated case charging. Like all the rest of them, no charge is dropped if there is not a case present. Measure will not reset until the ram is fully down, which means on the Loadmaster it has indexed and the chances of a double drop are about as close to nil as they can get. The die comes with tube adapters for pistol, short and longe rifle cartridges. Die and measure with all the trimmings is about 38 bucks at most places that carry Lee equipment. I use it for 30.06 on my Loadmaster and get very good repeatable drops. +\- .05 I traget 58g of H4350 and the drops are 57.9 to 58.0 checked on a quickie electronic scale every 5 cases.
First Big Foot
Member
Friend of mine had a Pro 1000, and I have been working with a Loadmaster for about 17 years. I found the three stages too limiting for my taste in the 1000, plus it seemed stiff. But then, I hadn't been lubing it like I do my own machinery.
The Loadmaster works perfectly, if needing adjustments and lubeing can be counted as normal parts of using a machine. (Ever watch the Engineer of a Steam Engine?)
Did find that their recommendation of STP to lube the Progressive drive rod to be spot on.
Changed out the quarter moons that keep brass in the shell plate with springs of my own manufacture so that I could remove something to check it out mid way.
Drilled a 1/16th hole in the primer tray, through from top to bottom at the opening where primers feed out. Just big enough for a small cotter key, drops in to keep primers in the tray while installing the tray, then pull out after it is installed. Be sure to deburr your holes well. (The pencil in the opening always seemed so flimsy to me, and then a primer stuck on the stop point in the socket is a pain.) Be careful to make the hole close as possible to where the socket holds it without interfereing with the fit.
Powdered graphite liberally applied on the primer mover sliding piece is very helpful.
Just a touch of the STP on the supporting ribs under the shell plate helps a lot. Rub it on with the tip of a finger.
(What else did I do?...) Had to drill, and tap in the handle shaft, for a bolt to hold the ball handle on.
The four-column shell feeder works great. Haven't tried the one for bullets yet. (Has anyone else out there?) The funnel for the top of them is worth every penny!
Had to make a Litany to keep everything in order: Brass-Bullet-pull-push....repeat. Of course the brass feeder shortened that:Bullet-pull-push....
The Dillon beside it is Brass-Bullet-pull-push-rotate...repeat, (or was it Push-Pull)
The Loadmaster works perfectly, if needing adjustments and lubeing can be counted as normal parts of using a machine. (Ever watch the Engineer of a Steam Engine?)
Did find that their recommendation of STP to lube the Progressive drive rod to be spot on.
Changed out the quarter moons that keep brass in the shell plate with springs of my own manufacture so that I could remove something to check it out mid way.
Drilled a 1/16th hole in the primer tray, through from top to bottom at the opening where primers feed out. Just big enough for a small cotter key, drops in to keep primers in the tray while installing the tray, then pull out after it is installed. Be sure to deburr your holes well. (The pencil in the opening always seemed so flimsy to me, and then a primer stuck on the stop point in the socket is a pain.) Be careful to make the hole close as possible to where the socket holds it without interfereing with the fit.
Powdered graphite liberally applied on the primer mover sliding piece is very helpful.
Just a touch of the STP on the supporting ribs under the shell plate helps a lot. Rub it on with the tip of a finger.
(What else did I do?...) Had to drill, and tap in the handle shaft, for a bolt to hold the ball handle on.
The four-column shell feeder works great. Haven't tried the one for bullets yet. (Has anyone else out there?) The funnel for the top of them is worth every penny!
Had to make a Litany to keep everything in order: Brass-Bullet-pull-push....repeat. Of course the brass feeder shortened that:Bullet-pull-push....
The Dillon beside it is Brass-Bullet-pull-push-rotate...repeat, (or was it Push-Pull)
burningsquirrels
Member
yup. i was tempted to get a dillon 650 with casefeeder, but at 800 used i bought the loadmaster that does the same for 180. took longer to set up, and takes some jimmying to work, but i've long paid my loadmaster off.
STP... the grease? i've been using the slide-glide i use on my gun... one less lubricant to worry about lol. i might try powdered graphite on the primer slider. i've been using the dry lube that i use in my actions in there... same thing i suppose, so long as it's dry and won't accumulate crud in there.
i also bought ribbon wire to run through the trough to help keep it clean.
STP... the grease? i've been using the slide-glide i use on my gun... one less lubricant to worry about lol. i might try powdered graphite on the primer slider. i've been using the dry lube that i use in my actions in there... same thing i suppose, so long as it's dry and won't accumulate crud in there.
i also bought ribbon wire to run through the trough to help keep it clean.
First Big Foot
Member
STP is a very thick, viscous, almost honey like oil aditive that is supposed to reduce oil burning in older engines.
As to Graphite, powdered teflon would likely do the same job. Don't want grease on the primers or in the powder.
Also, I seem to remember that I had to put a through bolt in the tapered rotater in the powder drop. Vague memory, would have to look at it again to make sure.
As to Graphite, powdered teflon would likely do the same job. Don't want grease on the primers or in the powder.
Also, I seem to remember that I had to put a through bolt in the tapered rotater in the powder drop. Vague memory, would have to look at it again to make sure.
burningsquirrels
Member
STP makes a bunch of different lubes so i had to ask... yeah i know which one you're talking about now.
i also put a 2" c-clamp on the brass feeder where it slides up and down on the rod because the plastic piece didn't grab it hard enough... looks funny but it works haha
i also put a 2" c-clamp on the brass feeder where it slides up and down on the rod because the plastic piece didn't grab it hard enough... looks funny but it works haha
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
