Progressive .223 on Dillon 550B??

[ThumperACC]

Hi All,

I have a question. I currently reload .223 on a single stage RCBS press.
I do things in the following order:
- Tumble cases
- Lube each case with imperial sizing wax while putting case in press for next step
- Resize/deprime
- Trim each case to the "trim-to length" in the reloading manual
- Deburr case mouth
- Hand prime each case
- ...the rest...


My question is this. If I am using a progressive Dillon 550b (thinking of buying one), trimming each case after resizing/depriming is not really an option or doing so would really negate the benefits of a progressive press.

What do you folks do? Trim all cases to the "trim-to length" before starting the process? If you do this, do you get consistent enough growth in resizing so that your crimps are nice and consistent (your case lengths are all the same after resizing)?

Thanks,
ThumperACC

 

[cfullgraf]

I resize, trim and clean my 223 Remington brass before reloading them. I process brass shortly after shooting and store away until I have enough to have a good, efficient reloading session.

I prime, charge and seat the bullet on the progressive.

I prefer to work with clean, dry brass when loading but that's me.

 

[dmazur]

This is a fairly common question, and there are many different approaches. One is as you mentioned (assume case length increases x) and trim before progressive reloading.

Other approaches are based on "break out" operation done either on a single stage press (which you already have) or at Station 1 on a progressive press, followed by trimming.

There are variations based on whether you use the press to reprime or do that off the press as well.

Following cutting primer pockets to a uniform depth (once for life of case), I do the following -

1. Tumble to clean.
2. Lube with RCBS case lube.
3. Resize/deprime/reprime at Station 1 of 550B. Don't index.
4. Clean excess lube off case.
5. Check for correct sized length and trim length with Wilson case gauge, creating bins with "Prepped", "Trim" and "Resize again" cases.
6. Run "Trim" bin through Giraud trimmer.
7. Working from "Prepped" bin, resume operations on press, but index before pulling handle.
8. After making 20, label box with load data and number of firings, transfer finished rounds from press bin to box.
9. Check powder charge with an empty case (and fired primer).
10. After shooting, collect brass in Zip-Loc bag and label with number of firings.

I used to get a couple of "Resize again" cases every hundred or so, but since I now use brass with a known history, I see better resizing uniformity. And, of course, just about all the cases need to be trimmed at the same time.

Some use RCBS X-dies, which are supposed to minimize the need for trimming. There doesn't seem to be a universal answer to this question.

IMO, what is important is that you monitor your process carefully. Something that works fine for new brass may not work well with mixed range brass, or with once-fired brass from another rifle.

 

[243winxb]

Trim .020" off from the maximum case length. Deburr case mouth.
Use the RCBS X die. Never trim again. No crimp needed if you have correct neck tension. Primer pockets don't need cleaning every time, if at all. Don't like to lube on a pad, get an RCBS lube die. Wipe the loaded round free of lube before putting in the case gauge.

 

[helotaxi]

Tumble
Size/decap on single stage
Run everything through the trimmer (saves the step of measuring)
Tumble
Prime and load on the 550b with a Lee collet die in station 1 (clears any media out of the flash hole and ensures uniform neck tension) and Lee FCD in station 4 (only used with cannelured bullets)

 

[gshipps]

Size and trim with dillon power trimmer on the first pass. Remove lube and then load in a second pass.

 

[BigBob3006]

Thumper,

I have a slightly different method. I use a RCBS universal depriming die to get the primers out of the way. Then I clean the primer pockets and then clean the cases. I like to handle cases because it gives me a chance to inspect them for indications of problems. After the cleaning I use a kitty litter scoop to take the cases out of the cleaning media. Then I use a decapping rod and pin from an old die to clear the flash holes if necessary. I prefer to have as long a case neck as possible to insure a good grip on the bullet. As a result I measure the length of the chamber and trim cases .005" short of that measurement. This is the main reason I make my cases from other cartridge cases. It also gives me the opportunity to form the new cases to the actual head space of my rifle. Cases do a minimum amount of expanding and gives me longer case life. I think it also improves my chances of better accuracy.

 

[ThumperACC]

Wow, amazing variety...keep 'em coming, there are some interesting ideas here.

Thanks all,
ThumperACC

 

[ThumperACC]

gshipps, tell me more about the dillon power trimmer. Does it mount in the press??

ThumperACC

 

[loadedround]

I load all my 223's on a Dillon 550B (and 308 Win for my M1A). I prepare my cases and spray lube them in bulk in a plastic bag to insure all all completely lubed and let the cases dry. I then proceed to load them using Dillon steel dies. I finally run my loaded rounds through a tumbler with corncob media for about 10 minutes to remove the lube (sure to get flack about that) and box them. Would love to try the Dillon carbide sizing die but 100.00+ is hard to justify.

 

[dmazur]

...Dillon carbide sizing die but 100.00+ is hard to justify.

I checked into Dillon carbide dies a while ago. My understanding is that they are designed for volume reloaders (such as police departments, etc.) and will have a longer life before wearing out, but they still require lubrication.

I believe the design of bottleneck dies is the problem. They can't have a "carbide ring" like pistol dies. More bearing surface, even though carbide, is still too much friction for eliminating the lube step.

 

[halfmoonclip]

dmazur's summation is what I heard from Dillon thirty years ago when I was reloading .223 on my 550. There is no escaping the lube step.
I trimmed my brass and generally kept it together by session and firing, and had little trouble with seating and crimping. However, I also decided that (despite reloading about anything else) reloading for the .223 was just more fun than I cared to have.
The dies and shellplate are put aside for some future bad time for ammunition, and I just buy 5.56/.223. There's just too much absolutely anal work to be done, and then the empties get scattered all over hell and half of Georgia. Arghhh.
Moon

 

[Hondo 60]

Brass doesn't go anywhere with one of these.
I have one & absolutely wouldn't be without one any more.

I LOVE this thing!

This tired broken body can't be chasing brass all over.
Just search for "hard brass catcher" or "rigid brass catcher"

 

[gshipps]

Thumper check pm's please. For trimmer info.

 

[eldon519]

+1 on the RCBS X-Die. Trim them once and forget about it. I don't reload super precision ammo, just duplicate NATO-ish spec 7.62, but it works great for me. It also is said to really improve brass life. I've heard claims from individuals using them in M14s (pretty notoriusly hard on brass) that I don't want to repeat just cause the figures are so hard to believe.

 

[ThumperACC]

Thanks gshipps, I've sent you a response with more question.

ThumperACC