Progressive presses

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fishinbill85

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I am going to purchase a 500 mag and I have to start reloading if I want to feed it...:D. I am leaning towards a nice progressive press that has the potential to cover diverse calibers. I like the hornady LNL AP and the dillon 550b. Is there even a progressive that can accomadate the massive 500 mag? I did not see it listed under the shellplate selection from hornady. I have tons of questions and only limited time to type so any and all advice is very welcomed. Thanks


I have tried to search this but to no avail.
 
Your first step is buying the best reference book or what I call Reloading for Dummies or The ABC's of Reloading from Krause Publications. Read it cover to cover, and then read it again while taking notes! Look for a mentor at your local club, range, or purveyor of supplies! Another more technical book, is Handloading for Competition by Glen Zediker.

There are several great reloading manuals of the real kind not the freebee ones! Freebee manuals are good for cross referencing data, at times. For meaty manuals a person can not go wrong with the Lyman49th, Hornady, and Sierra. One must always look up loads when you compare/cross-reference data. Especially in larger calibers as some data might be using different brass from yours. Case in point Hodgdon used WW brass to work up loads with, whereas Sierra used Fed cases in their 308 Winchester loading information.

Press - Single Stage or Turret presses are the best way to learn before advancing to any kind of progressive press. You will always have need for a single stage press. Redding and RCBS are good sources of all kinds of presses. RCBS Rockchucker Supreme for a single stage and Redding T7 for a turret press are basically the gold standard for the two different types.

Dies - I like Redding Dies, and I would get the carbide expander ball upgrade for bottle neck rifle cases. Dillon makes carbide rifle sizer dies, but you still need to use case lube and make sure you lube the inside of the case neck, too. I would just stick with regular dies for rifle cartridges. Dillon makes die sets specifically for their press so to speak, meaning that it does not come with a case mouth belling die; Redding makes a set of dies for progressive presses, too. I like Forster competition seaters, and they can be had as an individual item. Dies are pretty much threaded universally, except for Lyman 310 dies, and Dillon dies for the Square Deal B. Accuracy nuts will use hand dies, and they require an arbor press be used.

Shell holders (if the die set doesn't have them like Lee) or the appropriate shell plate for the progressive press. Remember that many shell holders work for more then one cartridge. I would do some home work, especially if you get a Dillon. Some cartridge conversions might only require you to get powder funnel for the new cartridge.

A tumbler will be a good investment, as clean cases will not harm you dies. There are vibratory and rotary tumblers out there. I like corn cob media treated with some Iosso case polish. You can get walnut in bulk at Petco or Pet Smart. Bulk corn cob grit is a great way to reduce the cost of commercially supplied media, because you pay through the nose for the treated media from other vendors.

MTM makes great loading block tray that handles most cartridges.

Case Lube is great for both conventional dies, and to treat your brass used in a progressive press even with carbide dies. That extra lubricity makes the cycling of the press a tad slicker! Dillon spray lube works well for shake and bake application. I like Imperial Die Wax for rifle cartridges when FL sizing.

Case Neck Brush to clean bottleneck rifle cases, copper bore brushes work well for this.

Dial Calipers either mechanical or electronic

Case Trimmer (Lee works, but Possum Hollow is better, Wilson makes the best hand powered Lathe trimmer, and Giraud is the best powered Trimmer)

Deburring/Chamfering Tool – like the Wilson one chucked into the Sinclair Deburring Tool Holder. I like the K&M VLD chamfering tool.

Primer Pocket Cleaner, reamer like the Hornady, and uniformer just remember that small primers are same size, where as large pistol and rifle are different sized in terms of height not width.

Primer pocket swager is an optional tool, RCBS makes one that mounts on single stage presses. Some will use the Hornady Reamer. Some will use the Dillon Super Swage.

Flash hole deburring tool is good tool to have

Primer Flip Tray is needed for loading pick up tubes for some primer systems like the Dillon.

Priming Tool (I like the RCBS (now even better with universal shell holder, but Sinclair makes the best)

Powder Scale - remember that is always better to have a mechanical scale as a back up to any electronic scale.

Powder Funnel kit with drop tubes especially if you intend to use powders like Varget.

Powder Trickler (used to tweak powder charges)

Powder Measure (nice for faster powder charges it does require a bit of learning curve to get consistent powder charges sort of rhythm thing) standard with progressive presses, but the RCBS Uniflow is nice! Redding makes a better one, and Harrell is the gold standard!

Hammer Type Bullet Puller (for taking down the boo boo's), and you will always need one of these. The Collet type work great for most rifle rounds, to keep from making a mess. The Hornady Cam Lock is nice tool.

Ammo boxes and labels, you can make your own labels with Avery Labels. I sometimes pick up the boxes from range trash, as the ones with plastic trays serve as a good loading block.

A notebook for recording your results! Saves covering the same ground twice!

A chronograph is great when working up loads, but is more a luxury in the beginning.
 
Bill -
Not to dampen your enthusiasm my friend one bit, but let's backup a moment here and think this out. People carry a 500 Mag to do big work, not to go shoot "practical pistol" courses. So are you really sure you'll be shooting this gun 400+ times a month? Unless you're a REALLY big guy, the chances of that are fairly small. If not, then you don't need a progressive, multi-stage press to turn out 200 rounds per hour.

Now if your intentions were to load a lot of (say) 9mm, 45ACP, and 308... with a wee bit of 500 Mag thrown in, then I could see it. If it's just the 500 Mag, or even a 500 Mag and a couple of rifles, a much cheaper single stage press will be just as good and save you a lot of up front money.

I hope I misunderstood your question, but shooting just a 500 Mag, I doubt your wrist is going to stand up to more than 50 rounds per month on an on-going basis.

Just my 2 cents.
 
+1 I agree w/rfwobbly. A 500 is not like a 38spl,45 acp or 9mm. You're just not going to shoot it till the cows come home or your ammo supply runs out.

I don't necessarily agree starting off with a single stage first, but face the fact that IF you do start to reload and enjoy the hobby, you're sooner or later going to need a single stage press regardless.

If you have the funds then go for a progressive. Don't know about the LNL but the dillon can be used as a single stage if one dersires to set it up that way.

If funds are somewhat limited I would start off with a single stage or the Lee Classic Turret (which I've never used) that gets fantastic reviews.

If you're just getting into reloading you're going to need nearly an endless amount of equipment. After you get goinging and learning the ropes then you can upgrade your press.

So IMO I would get the minimal basic requirement of equipment and build from there. If funding is of no issue, get the best you can afford and have at it.

At any rate, hopefully you have a close neighbor or friend that can help you along and to share your newly found hobby.

Good Luck
 
well thanks every body for some good advice so far. I was thinking about the progressive because I DO shoot other calibers, frequently, like .223, .40, 380 auto, .270 etc,etc. I would imagine that if I wanted to just shoot the .500 mag ALL the time... I would be in the poorhouse in no time:uhoh: even with reloading (it's still EXPENSIVE). I do have quite a few of the items mentioned already at my disposal, ie: tumbler, scales, calipers. Matter of fact, I think my dad has a single stage press and other reloading stuff in storage...... but I think some are right, they get outgrown in a hurry (like other things) and I would like to be ahead of the curve if ya get my drift. Been thinkin about getting into reloading for a while now and the .500 is as good of an excuse as any to pull the trigger (pun). I have a feeling that because I like to experiment and do technical things, I will have a blast (another pun) reloading. Correct me if I'm wrong.


P.S.
I already have the ABC's of Reloading on order.....And keep all the free advise coming! Seriously, Pelt me with knowledge:D
 
You first deed is to READ THE ABC's of RELOADING cover to cover! Then do it again while taking notes. Then come back when you need clarification!
 
I load 500 S&W, because its 60$ a box for ammo. I load mine on a Dillon 550, but I'm sure that the L&L will suffice.

The fellas here gave you some really sound advice. When I started out many years ago, I read everything that was available at the time. I purchaced a Rock Chucker kit, that was on special, from Natchez supply. I loaded thousands of rounds on that single stage press, before stepping up to a progressive.

If I didn't have the Dillons, I would load 500 S&W on the single stage.
 
What about the Lee Classic Cast turret press? It's cheap enough. A little faster than a single stage. Caliber swaps are a snap with additional turret plates. And you can use it as a single stage to size and then clean/trim your rifle shells. Stick the rifle shells back in to prime, charge and seat the bullets. It really speeds up loading pistol calibers with the Pro Auto Disk powder measure. I admit I do use a RCBS Uniflow for more precision loading of my rifle calibers. The Lee is what I use and highly recommend it over a single stage press. Unless you're burning through a LOT of ammo, this setup does pretty darn good for low volume work. For a lot less money than a progressive.
 
I started on a 550B. No problem.
If you are not mechanically inclined, then I strongly agree with starting on a single stage or a turrent, until you acquire the appropriate skills.

I think the people who always insist on starting off with a single stage mean well, but it's not 100% necessary. Starting on a single stage would have driven me crazy, and I would have been pissed off at anyone who got me thinking I had to start there. But I have various machine shop skills and also successfully tackled engine and tranny rebuilds, so I know I have the requisite mechanical skills.

So, be honest with yourself and your ability, and choose accordingly.
 
I do agree with Gary also, that it is not necessary to start off on a single stage. But in my case, that was all that I could afford at the time.

But I am glad that I started that way, because it gave me hands on feeling for what I was doing. I still have that old rock chucker, and I don't plan on getting rid of it.

I now have 2 550s, and a 650. The 650 makes ammo so fast, till it aint even fun. I love the 550s because you still get somewhat of a hands on feel for what your doing.

Just my little input

Have a Blessed day in the Lord.
 
yup 550b will load 500 Smith and wesson. I might look at the lock n load if your going to meter a lot of h110 or fine ball powders though
 
I use my Dillon powder measure with fine ball powders with few problems, but that said, the ultra fine grains can gum up the works. Dillon sells a simple & cheap adapter that will let you use other powder measures (in my case a Lyman 55); you will just have to cycle it while the press is up. It's a non-issue as far as I'm concerned. I use the 550 and wouldn't switch; same for those who prefer the LNL & others, too. We'll all debate the superiority of our own, but I think they all work, else they wouldn't continue to be sold... :scrutiny:
 
What about the Lee Classic Cast turret press?
I load my 500's with excellent quality on the Lee Classic.I use the Lee die set with the Redding crimp die in the 4 hole.
 
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Don't over look the Forster CoAx press, one of the best single stage presses out there!

Quick die change, floating die alignment, heavy duty and easy to operate.

If you do look at single stage, at least give it a look!

Jimmy K
 
I agree with 45ACPUSER except for one thing: I don't consider a chronograph a luxury at the beginning or any other time.

For me, it's a necessity. I don't want to have to rely on reading the tea leaves of "pressure signs" to determine I have a problem. I want to know my velocities and be able to understand, in an objective way, what I'm producing.

BTW, I suggest you start out on a single stage. Learn the steps, learn to produce good ammo that way, then graduate to a progressive. You need to learn how it feels when you size a case, how the decapping process works, how to seat a bullet, how to expand the case--all that stuff, in fact.

If you try to do it on a progressive, you're introducing additional variables and things that can confuse the issue.

Besides, you will *want* a single-stage press even if you have a progressive, for things like pulling bullets w/ a collet-style puller, working up loads, this 'n' that.

You do *not* want to set up a progressive to produce 10 rounds of a particular powder level, then fiddle with adjusting it to add .2 grains of powder and do 10 more, etc. etc.

Further, bullet seating depth is partly related to whether you're doing a single case on a progressive or you've filled all five stations with cases. It's just easier to work up a few quick loads on a single-stage.

I started in mid-September of 2008, on an old RCBS single-stage. Loaded .223 right off the bat. Figured things out, graduated to doing handgun rounds in .45 and 9mm. By December 2008, I was ready for the progressive.

You can "be ready" faster, as part of my delay was finances. After a month of loading on a single stage, with a number of range sessions in there to evaluate your reloads, you'd probably be ready to think about it.

And if you're considering getting the Hornady LnL (my press, btw), get the Hornady dies right off the bat. You can get 100 bullets w/ each one for a nominal shipping fee, and they will work well with the LnL press. Don't get the Lee offerings.

GL, and welcome to a fascinating hobby and pastime.
 
Why shouldnt he get the Lee dies? I have a Rockchucker and a 550B and I use both Lee dies and Dillon dies in either press. Saying dont get the Lee dies without explanation is, at best, snobbish. Thats like me saying "dont get the Harnady dies" when I have a Dillon.

Bass
 
You do *not* want to set up a progressive to produce 10 rounds of a particular powder level, then fiddle with adjusting it to add .2 grains of powder and do 10 more, etc. etc.
To each their own, but I do it all the time. I might load 25 rounds or less of two different loads in .357, three in .44 Spl, & three in .45 Colt, using four different powders, back to back to back to back on my LNL.

Perhaps not for the novice, but very doable. :)

Don't get the Lee offerings.
Any particular reason?
.
 

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AC,

I just love your posts with the pretty pictures, the fancy links by their names, the grafs, arrows, numbers, markings, and other simular superior posting skills. You leave no room for the imagination, my friend. You really show it like it is.

Cheers

AT
 
Here are the presses I would consider:
- Dillon 550b (does not have auto-index)
- Dillon XL-650
- Hornady Lock-N-Load AP
- RCBS Pro 2000 (only cast iron 5 station press)

Each has its pros/cons. Feel free to ask specific questions.

If you want to see videos of them in action, go here: (don't have 550b videos, but all others listed as well as the Lee Loadmaster and some turret/single stage)
www.ultimatereloader.com
 
Why shouldnt he get the Lee dies? I have a Rockchucker and a 550B and I use both Lee dies and Dillon dies in either press. Saying dont get the Lee dies without explanation is, at best, snobbish. Thats like me saying "dont get the Harnady dies" when I have a Dillon.

Sorry, was in a hurry and you're right, I should have explained.

Lee dies in a single-stage seem to work pretty well (and perhaps in other progressives), but they're shorter dies which, when combined w/ the die bushings in the hornady, can make them more problematic. Some have been able to get them to work well, others have less success.

Given that sometimes they do and sometimes they don't (and I adjusted mine to a fare-the-well, still to poor effect), it seems prudent to avoid them.

I'm not a big Lee fan (though the classic cast is a heckuva press, and I have one), but others make good ammo with it and that, in the end, is the goal.
 
Lee dies in a single-stage seem to work pretty well (and perhaps in other progressives), but they're shorter dies which, when combined w/ the die bushings in the hornady, can make them more problematic.
That is a good point. I could barely make a couple of Lee dies work in the LNL due to lack of enough threads up high. I was able to though. It hasn't just been Lee dies though.

Check this thread
 
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