Progressives and Cleaning Primer Pockets

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Just starting off here, and using a single stage press. This has caused me to be curious about how the more progressive members of the group operate. I de-prime, then clean primer pockets by hand with one of those little steel-bristled brushes. I am reloading .40S&W now and will also be loading .223 Rem.

How is this process carried out with a fully progressive press? I've noticed that they don't come with a "primer pocket cleaning stage" built in. ;-) Do you first short-circuit the dies that follow the de-prime/re-size die and then run them thru a second time, starting with case belling and priming?

 

[Stinger]

Progressive loaders don't clean primer pockets. It kind of defeats the purpose of going progressive.

 

[Deanimator]

I only load pistol rounds on my Dillon 550B. I've never found cleaning primer pockets to be necessary.

I clean the primer pockets on my rifle cases, but I load rifle on an RCBS Rock Chucker. I deprime and size all of my cases, clean the primer pockets and then prime on a Lee hand primer. I also trickle every powder charge. I notice a difference at 600 yards. I doubt I'd notice a difference with my .38s or .45s at 50 feet.

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

I reload on a Hornady Lock N Load AP which has proven to be as accurate a reload runout wise as most all single stages. Here's my processes:

Straight walled pistol cartridges:

1. Shoot
2. Tumble dirty brass to remove dirt and to polish up a bit. (Generally store until ready to reload in large plastic bin.)
3. Reload through the progressive press. No primer pocket cleaning involved.

Necked Rifle cartrdgies used in automatics:

1. Shoot
2. Tumble to clean off range dirt. (Generally, store until ready to reload.)
3. Lube, FL Size and Deprime on the progressive to speed the sizing process up.
4. Trim on first reloading, subsequent reloadings use an RCBS X-die to minimize or eliminate trimming.
4. Tumble to remove sizing lube.
5. Prime, charge and seat bullet on progressive.

Necked rifle cartridges.

1. Tumble to remove range dirt. (Store in large plastic biin until ready to reload.)
2. Neck size and deprime, prime, charge and seat bullet, all on the progressive.

This same process can be used for a automated turret press as well. As you can see, there is no primer pocket cleaning involved. I've not found it necessary for most applications. If such accuracy is needed or desired, I do any case prep after the fired case is deprimed on the progressive.

While the steps for rifle are there, the automated process greatly speeds things up because you simply feed cases into the progressive and the progressive removes them. With a casefeeder, it's even faster. I can't say how much faster, but I can FL resize a pretty large batch of brass in my progressive in minutes vs. an hour or so in a single stage.

I only use my single stage for specialty stuff such as swaging with a CH swager die and working up loads for oddball cartridges I have a die set, but no shellplate for.

Hope this helps,

Dave

 

[Walkalong]

I tumble all the cases after shooting. Then I run them all through my Hornady Projector using only the sizer which, of course, decaps as well. Then I prime them all with an RCBS hand priming tool. Then I run them through my Hornady without the sizer, but with the expander, seater, & crimp dies.

I don't clean primer pockets most of the time. When I do it is just before the priming step. For rifle cases I tumble again to remove lube before priming. I do not prime with the Projector. It was just too aggrevating. I understand the new Lock & Load is much better.

 

[shadowalker]

I have a pocket cleaning brush but typically don't use it for pistol instead I use a universal decapping die, then tumble.

Using a universal decapping die means I don't have to tumble before decapping because it doesn't size plus much less force is required.

45, 40 and 9mm all wind up with pretty clean pockets, less lead goes in the tumbler and the the media lasts longer.

 

[Sistema1927]

I can't remember the last time that I cleaned a primer pocket. After removing the brass from the tumbler they go right to the Lee Classic Turret press. I am mainly loading .45 Colt and .45 ACP. I do a quick visual inspection to make sure that none of the cases are split, but other than that I do no further case prep.

 

[Idano]

I always clean primer pockets and I load on a progressive. I have bins full of prepped brass ready to reload. Having a progressive is no excuse to skip cleaning the primmer pockets that would be like saying trimming the cases to length defeats the purpose of having a progressive. There are no excuse for taking short cuts... period.

Soon as I get home from a day of shooting the brass goes into the tumbler for a couple of hours. When it is done: pistol gets run through the progressive to be resized and deprime. Then I gauge the cases and those that pass get the primer pocket cleaned; it only takes about 2 minutes to clean a 100 rounds. Rifle get lubed and resizes on my single stage and tumbled again to remove the lube. Then I clean the primer pockets and store it in bins until I get a 1,000 rounds to reload.

 

[Hazzard]

There are no excuse for taking short cuts... period.

Ummm, not doing a step which essentially has no value in reloading pistol cartridges is not really taking a shortcut, it is eliminating an unnecessary process.I gave up cleaning primer pockets on pistol calibers years ago. I do check them after tumbling to make sure the flash hole is not obstructed.

 

[1911user]

Cleaning primer pockets is not required for pistol and most rifle ammo. It doesn't hurt anything to do it though.

 

[Car Knocker]

I always clean primer pockets..... There are no excuse for taking short cuts... period.

Great. That's your opinion.

I think cleaning pockets for anything less that long-range precision ammo is a waste of time. That's my opinion. Without all the histrionics.

 

[Zak Smith]

I don't even clean primer pockets on LR bolt rifle reloads. I guess I'm happy with 1/2 MOA @ 1000.

 

[RidgwayCO]

I also clean primer pockets, because my goal is reloaded ammo as good or better than factory, and that requires the primer anvil be in solid contact with the bottom of the primer pocket. What I don't believe however, is that those who (for whatever reason) don't clean their primer pockets are going to hell.

Since my first primer pocket cleaning confession, I've been diagnosed (online) as anal, anal compulsive (its close twin), and OCD (the meaning of which I had to look up). Lucky for me, all of this psychoanalysis was provided free of charge, otherwise I'd be ignorant as well...

My process is to deprime my brass with an RCBS universal depriming die, clean the primer pockets with a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer, tumble the brass clean, check the flash holes for media, prime with an RCBS hand prime tool, and then use the four stations on the Lee classic turret to resize (decapping pin removed of course), flare and charge with powder (visually check each powder charge), seat a bullet, and finally crimp with a Lee FCD. I've noted no problems with resizing primed brass, and since the brass companies have been selling primed brass for years, I didn't really expect any.

My reloaded rounds look good, chamber positively, and always (always) go bang.

The nice thing about this hobby is that you can do what you feel comfortable with, and as long as you don't hurt yourself, your guns, or anyone else, you're good to go.

 

[The Bushmaster]

I will not elaborate on this subject of cleaning primer pockets except to say that I'm on Idano's side... I have had primers stick up above the case head because of access carbon in the primer pocket or seat cockeyed because of it...

 

[Shoney]

I did a clean/no-clean primer pocket study over a 5 year period with 5 of my long range rifles. That study was completed about 35 years ago. I haven't cleaned a primer pocket since.

 

[JDGray]

I reload many thousands of rounds a year, on my turret, and clean each and every pocket. Most say its a waste of time, but I just cant skip that simple step. Call me anal(cause I am), but its the way I was taught, and I've never had a primer related problem. I also hand prime

 

[Walkalong]

I have had primers stick up above the case head because of excess carbon in the primer pocket

Yep, that is when I FINALLY break down and clean the little buggers.

 

[cheygriz]

I never clean primer pockets on a progeessive. It's a waste of time. I never trim pistol brass. It's also a waste of time

Why do a bunch of totally useless work that accomplishes nothing?

 

[earplug]

Brand of primers

I used CCI and had problems due to fouling. I would clean after three to four firings. This was A decade ago.
Now I use Winchester or Federal primers. I don't tumble.
No problems.

 

[mc223]

I don't mess with primer pockets.

 

[Idano]

Hello all,

I see my post generated a lot of flurry. Well I might have been a little steamed up when I wrote that because I had just finished responding to a thread where they were bashing quality and consistency of reloads; a topic I take a little bit personal since I take great pride in the quality of my reloads! The thread contained post from reloaders and non-reloaders that was stating that for defense loads they would never trust reloads because they had either experience or see too many misfires or squib loads at the range. Well why do you do think Mr. John Q Public in general thinks so poorly of reloads?

You're all right it is my opinion and I noticed that I am not alone in my thinking, that anyone that reloads should strive to produce the highest quality ammunition possible.

I do have to chuckle at some of the responses. I see that some think primer pocket condition was suppose to affect accuracy, that's funny. Those of you that took me serious about not trimming your brass please don't share your reloads with anyone, it could cost you more then you know and review the section on case prep in the ABC's of Reloading.

It is pretty obvious that there are members here that only reload to turn out rounds with no forethought as to whether their life may depend upon quality of any particular round they happen to reload. This may be because many people today reload simply for the range. I initially started reloading 33 years ago not 40 like Shoney, for hunting. Even though my life may or may not have ever depended upon one of my reloads, nothing would have been more disappointing then having a misfire or squib load when taking a shot at a nice bull or buck. By the way when a black bear charged me 4 yrs ago I never doubted in the reload in my 44 mag when I dropped him nor do I have any doubt in the reloads in my gun in the night stand.

Whatever you do it is your choice. Probably the most common thing that could happen if you didn't clean the primer pocket is a misfire and the worst could be a slam fire. Either way, what do you have to loose?

 

[Walkalong]

I have NEVER had a misfire on reloads, dirty primer pockets and all. I take pride in my reloads and will put them up against anyones. I also load for the range where there are no griz.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Idano...I like shinny brass (easier to find flaws in the brass not to mention cracks). I trim all cases that are over length and some that I want to be the same length for crimping purposes. Even .45 ACP brass that I want all to be the same length. I clean primer pockets. Measure cases. I weigh every powder charge before it is dropped into the case. That's right. EVERY Charge of powder. I'm so anal that I have a set of 20 each of .30-30 and .30-06 cases that I have weighed for hunting purposes only. I haven't been reloading as long as some on here, but over 20 years should count for something I would figure. And I have not EVER had a misfire, squib or any failure to go down range. I hunt with my reloads and have taken game with them and I TRUST THEM...I load on a Lee Turret (18 yrs old) with Lee dies (I have an old set of .38 Special RCBS dies). And at this time have no use for a progressive because it stops me from my 6 step inspection system (heard too many horror stories of progressives failing to complete a step like dropping the powder and the operater missing it). Besides I have 36 more years left on this earth. Plenty of time. If it wasn't for litigation problems or suspisions and the Sherriff's recomandation I'd use them for self defence (CCW).

I'm on your side...For what it's worth...

 

[RustyFN]

Well I'm confused with who is mad at who but what's new. I haven't reloaded near as long as most of you. I have never cleaned primer pockets on pistol brass and never had a problem. I just started loading 223 an am cleaning primer pockets and will see how it goes. I load for competition and not self defense but take pride in my reloads. I would be comfortable using my reloads for self defense but my CCL instructor talked me out of it with all of the legal problems he said you could get into. But thats another thread.
Rusty

 

[snuffy]

I'm right in the middle with this one. Sometimes I do clean primer pockets, sometimes I don't. It depends on how I'm loading,(which machine's being used), and what the loads are going to be used for.

When loading on my dillon 650, primer pockets are not cleaned. That's for all the different calibers I load on it, 357, 40 S&W, 45 acp, 45 colt, 44 mag, .223 and .308.

When loading on the co-ax single stage, or the lee challanger, I do clean primer pockets. I just got a RCBS case prep center. With it's slowly rotating stations, I can clean a bunch of primer pockets, chamfer inside and out, even run a brush inside the neck.

As for the theory that primer crud "builds up" I don't subscribe to it. BUT ya know what, I never did a test to see if I could notice a difference! Who has? Same goes with the theory that powder residue inside the case "builds up"! If either builds up, the cases would get progressively heavier, correct?