Which parts of the Rem 870 need to be lubed/ Conversely, which parts should stay dry? I have a tendency to over-lubricate everything and have found a lot of gunk builds up in the process. It would be nice to get the some good on this subject. Thanks.
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Proper lubrication for an 870 ??
- Thread starter riverdog
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dfariswheel
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One big advantage of a 870 is it works, clean and lubed, or dirty and dry.
Usually applying a thin coat of Rem-Oil or CLP Breakfree to all internal parts will both lube and protect the gun. I usually use a clean toothbrush to apply the lube, since this allows a very thin coat.
Heavy friction areas like the hammer pivot, trigger pin, sear pin, and mainspring plunger get a tiny drop of lube.
I usually apply a thin coat of grease to the bolt, bolt carrier, and face of the hammer.
Like you, I and probably everyone else here, are guilty of over lubing.
Usually applying a thin coat of Rem-Oil or CLP Breakfree to all internal parts will both lube and protect the gun. I usually use a clean toothbrush to apply the lube, since this allows a very thin coat.
Heavy friction areas like the hammer pivot, trigger pin, sear pin, and mainspring plunger get a tiny drop of lube.
I usually apply a thin coat of grease to the bolt, bolt carrier, and face of the hammer.
Like you, I and probably everyone else here, are guilty of over lubing.
Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
Ok, here goes. This duplicates a thread on deep cleaning an 870, inside and out, back on TFL.
I sugges this once a year, or every 1K round sor so.
Take it down, including the forearm, action bars,
bolt and trigger group.Unscrew the big nut at the front of the forearm with either a special took available at Brownell's, etc, or use a pair of needletip pliers with the tips stuck in the notches. Clean and relube. Be sure to get the inside of the tube the forearm covers, this is often the place rust starts on pumps. Get the threads, too.
NOTE: All relubing mentioned here is"Wipe on, wipe off". Coat all surfaces with lube, and remove as much as you can with paper towels, rags, etc.
Scrub the bolt and TG with Hoppe's and toothbrush, or use a spray cleaner.In either case, get the cleaner off the parts as best you can and relube.
Go inside the receiver and clean all surfaces, then,you guessed it, relube.
Do the same with the bbl. If there's tubes, unscrew and scrube/lube the threads in the bbl, ditto for the choke tube and bore portion.
Express finishes hold lubes like CLP well. Some of this or SLIP 2000 and a silicone cloth will save you from corrosion under all but the most severe conditions.
Reassemble, then with the action closed, put ONE drop of lube on each action bar right next to the receiver. Pump a few times, throw it to your shoulder, smile and store it until the next time.
HTH....
I sugges this once a year, or every 1K round sor so.
Take it down, including the forearm, action bars,
bolt and trigger group.Unscrew the big nut at the front of the forearm with either a special took available at Brownell's, etc, or use a pair of needletip pliers with the tips stuck in the notches. Clean and relube. Be sure to get the inside of the tube the forearm covers, this is often the place rust starts on pumps. Get the threads, too.
NOTE: All relubing mentioned here is"Wipe on, wipe off". Coat all surfaces with lube, and remove as much as you can with paper towels, rags, etc.
Scrub the bolt and TG with Hoppe's and toothbrush, or use a spray cleaner.In either case, get the cleaner off the parts as best you can and relube.
Go inside the receiver and clean all surfaces, then,you guessed it, relube.
Do the same with the bbl. If there's tubes, unscrew and scrube/lube the threads in the bbl, ditto for the choke tube and bore portion.
Express finishes hold lubes like CLP well. Some of this or SLIP 2000 and a silicone cloth will save you from corrosion under all but the most severe conditions.
Reassemble, then with the action closed, put ONE drop of lube on each action bar right next to the receiver. Pump a few times, throw it to your shoulder, smile and store it until the next time.
HTH....
sm
member
Dave is right on, less is more .
When I shot a shucker, I'd go on average a 1K rds a month, every other month break down , cln/lube-unless rained hard, then sooner. My only real concern was keeping chamber cln, especially with wax from paper shells, plastic same deal just a bit different build-up. 0000 steel wool on nylon brush cures.
When I shot a shucker, I'd go on average a 1K rds a month, every other month break down , cln/lube-unless rained hard, then sooner. My only real concern was keeping chamber cln, especially with wax from paper shells, plastic same deal just a bit different build-up. 0000 steel wool on nylon brush cures.
Links and Owners Manual
Well, in addition to the very good TFL Thread on Cleaning an 870 that Dave mentioned, I also went to the Remington website and found their Reading Room . It has all the Owner's Manuals On-Line and downloadable in PDF format.
I don't know about you, but my 870 Owner's Manual walked 15 or so years ago -- probably during a PCS move cleaning house. Anyhow, it is now resident on my hard drive.
Well, in addition to the very good TFL Thread on Cleaning an 870 that Dave mentioned, I also went to the Remington website and found their Reading Room . It has all the Owner's Manuals On-Line and downloadable in PDF format.
I don't know about you, but my 870 Owner's Manual walked 15 or so years ago -- probably during a PCS move cleaning house. Anyhow, it is now resident on my hard drive.
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