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pump action lubricants

Discussion in 'Shotguns' started by Bezoar, Nov 10, 2007.

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  1. Bezoar

    Bezoar member

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    I have a problem with getting a correct lubricant for an old pump gun. I am using outers Tri Care for cleaning and lubing as it does clean good. But it just evaporates/absords into nothingness after i work the action around 8 or 9 times. THen i just get binding and need to use way to much force to get it to work.
    Is there something that will stay in one place?
     
  2. esmith

    esmith Member

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    I have had the same problem with remoil. Except without binding. For higher viscosity lubes, hoppes makes a clear oil that works well. Doesn't evaporate and doesn't stink. I never really liked outers cleaning supplies, their solvents didn't work as well as hoppes did and their one type of oil worked but smelled wierd.
     
  3. The Deer Hunter

    The Deer Hunter Member

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    I have a bottle of Hoppe's no. 9 oil, it works pretty well for what it does....But my gun doesn't really ever bind....

    Have you shot it at all? Maybe that will loosen things up a bit.
     
  4. Dave McCracken

    Dave McCracken Moderator In Memoriam

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    There's a plethora of good lubes here. SLIP 2000, Remoil, Mobil One Synthetic, Breakfree CLP, and some stuff from Beretta.

    Anti Sieze compound goes on the action pins of the O/U, and on the choke tube threads.

    HTH....
     
  5. ArmedBear

    ArmedBear Member

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    I find that Bullfrog Lubricant and Rust Blocker works GREAT on an 870's action. Feels really smooth.

    Dave- I've been using ProBore on those things. It's a bit messy, but it works. Anti-sieze might be a better choice. Can you get away with using only a bit? How is it for holding fouling, etc.?

    I'm looking for a breakdown-case-friendly lube that won't attract sand and grit in the field. Lately, I've just been leaving my upland gun together and transporting it the same as a non-breakdown design, but I'd love to have a smaller case.
     
  6. krimmie

    krimmie Member

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    It's not a cleaner but, Remington's Dry Lube is a good product.
     
  7. ArmedBear

    ArmedBear Member

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    BTW while I have and use CLP for some things (AR mainly), I think it's best to separate your cleaner from your lube. For a shotgun, I even want a third product to remove wad crud at least every now and again, and for a rifle, copper remover is a good thing.

    One size doesn't usually fit all.:)
     
  8. eliphalet

    eliphalet Member

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    Gunslick, Use to come in the Outters gun cleaning kits, not sure it is still available but something similar surely is. It is a mixture of a graphite with heaver lube, akin to a graphite impregnated light grease. I place it in areas that can use more of a lube than oil. Works very well and tends to stay where you put it.
     
  9. Bartkowski

    Bartkowski Member

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    I have no problem with rem oil and other oils evaporating. I do sometimes use a very thick grease for parts that get a lot of wear and metal to metal contact, but rem oil is fine for me.
     
  10. Dave McCracken

    Dave McCracken Moderator In Memoriam

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    AB, anti sieze is nasty stuff. It does the job, but ends up on everything. 'Nother choice is STOS. Less mess, stays in place and lasts well.

    If pumped full of Sodium Pentathol and strapped down to the Iron Maiden and told to pick just one lube, it'd probably be SLIP 2000.

    A while back I Betatested SLIP's choke tube cleaner of theirs in a dunk tub. It cleaned plastic off very well and was biodegradeable.
     
  11. ArmedBear

    ArmedBear Member

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    I won some SLIP 2000 in a club contest. Haven't tried it yet (also won a bunch of other lubes and the like -- strange prize table).

    Now I'll have to dig it out.

    Does it work on a break-action's hinge/bloc area?
     
  12. Robert Hairless

    Robert Hairless Member

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    ArmedBear, SLIP 2000 does seem to work well on both an 870 and also a Benelli semi-auto. No experience with it on break action though.

    Tell me about how you use Rust Blocker on your 870? Does it do anything more than block rust?
     
  13. Dave McCracken

    Dave McCracken Moderator In Memoriam

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    Should work well,Bear, just redo every couple range trips.

    In bores, SLIP seems to add a very thin coat that aids cleaning.
     
  14. ArmedBear

    ArmedBear Member

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    Robert: there are two Bullfrog products in very similar-looking cans. That might be what you're thinking of.

    One is Lubricant and Rust Blocker, which is an excellent lube and works great on an 870, as well as in semiauto pistols and in any actions like lever guns, revolver internals and auto pistols. It's thicker than CLP so it stays put, and it's a bit foamy when you spray it, so you can get it into complex, tiny mechanisms and just wipe off the excess with a rag. It's also not a cleaner, so it doesn't attract and dissolve crud like CLP can. It does work well against rust, too, in my experience but it is an oil and is thus quite oily.:)

    The other is Rusthunter, which is not a lube at all and has no lubricating properties AFAIK. It makes a great non-oily preservative for the rough surface-rust-prone Express. It's thin and easy to apply on rough meetal, and it's far less greasy than something like Barricade. It's worth trying, as are their wipes. The only downside of their wipes is that they come in a dispenser. I like the little single-use packaged wipes to take in the field for a wet or sweaty day, so I usually use RemOil wipes in the field.
     
  15. sm

    sm member

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    Aw Man!

    This shotgun stuff is too hard!
    Gun fit, correct basics, lessons, patterning, cleaning, gun cases and now we are supposed to lubricate them?

    I'm going back to homemade sling shots, life was simpler with sling shots, rocks for ammo and Peanut Butter and Jelly sandwiches for general principle.

    *grin*
     
  16. alsaqr

    alsaqr Member

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    i use nothing but Militec for all my guns. Also use it in the bore. Militec is a long lasting lubricant that does not attract dust and dirt.
     
  17. Robert Hairless

    Robert Hairless Member

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    ArmedBear, you're right. I have Rusthunter and a gel whose name I forget, neither of which seemed to fit your description. I hadn't known about the Lubricant and Rust Blocker. I will give it a try, with thanks to you once again.
     
  18. oletymer

    oletymer Member

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    Anti seize won't go on the hinge pins or mating surfaces on my break action guns. It is not a good lubricant. Use some of the new clear sythetic grease like Triflow synthetic teflon grease. They are much cleaner and far better lubricants.
     
  19. Shell Shucker

    Shell Shucker Member

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    I think anti seize is best left to manifold bolts and spark plugs. I don't think it's meant for lubricating MOVING parts. It's made to keep non-moving parts, like exhaust manifold bolts, from seizing in the holes.
    I used it on some choke tubes........ ONCE! By the end of the day it was all over me and my gun; what a mess. Also the tubes didn't spin in and out freely when coated with it as it is VERY thick and sticky.
    I think better lubes are available and more suited to the task.
     
  20. fearless leader

    fearless leader Member

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    Go to a plummer supply place and tell them you want some clear silicone grease. It is thick enough to lubricate, it won't vanish, and it won't stain your hands or stink.
    Like Brylcreem, a little dab will do ya'.
     
  21. Wild Deuce

    Wild Deuce Member

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    +1 on Militec

    I can't pin point where I read this recently but someone said that oil was really meant to be used somewhere where it could be contained while it slops around and does it's job (i.e. engine crankcase). Grease was for other non-contained applications.

    I reached a compromise or sort of a merging concept of this idea with "traditional" lubrication ideas for firearms a while ago. It has worked very well for me ... so far. Once my firearms are clean, I mix a tiny amount of Militec grease with a few drops of Militec dri-lube (oil). This gives me a very slick, gooey substance that I use on things such as the slide rails, frame rails, barrel bushings, barrel contact points and just about anywhere there is heavy duty metal to metal contact. I use straight Militec Dri-lube on the finer items that require it such as the sear, safeties, pins, springs, etc. In all instances (oil or grease), I use a minimal amount; just enough to coat the working surfaces.

    I use this same approach on my pump shotgun. The action is very slick and works well for me. No matter the gun, I always let the firearm sit and "bleed" any excess lubrication. It then gets a wipedown and therafter it just maintains a slight damp appearance on the points of lubrication. I have not had any problems with accumulation of dust, dirt or fouling.
     
  22. John917

    John917 Member

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    I got a tube of lube from Radioshack on sale for a dollar. It's about the size of a toothpaste tube. It is clear, about as thick as axle grease, is odorless, and doesn't come off, unless you wipe it off. I also use it on the bolts of my rifles. The action cycles a LOT better afterwards.
     
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