punch set recommendation

[somoss]

i work on older guns and bought a of set of brass punches/drifts but over the years i have lost some and broken some. can soemone recommend a good set? not looking for harborfreight quality. prefer good quality but not rediculous prices.
i would like to be able to handle small pins (1/16 or so) and large ones (5/16 or more).

any ideas? places online?
thnx

 

[brickeyee]

Brownells

Brass punches should be 3/4 or full hard or they deform to easily in use.

they are still a lot softer than steel.

 

[SoulLessGinger]

I have a set of Grace punches I got from Midway. Good punches but I've already bent the smallest one beyond use. One good, tough trigger pin and that was all she wrote.

Just remember there are limits to what a brass punch can do.

 

[rcmodel]

+1 on limitations!

A 1/16" brass punch is going to get distroyed the first time you try to use it on a tight pin.

I use steel nail-set cupped punches to start tight domed pins moving, and steel flat end pin punches after that.

Brass punches are only used on 1/4" and bigger slip-fit pins, for drifting sights, etc.
Then I regrind them on a belt sander to keep them in shape after they get dinged up.

BTW: I make my own out of brass round bar stock.

rc

 

[Onward Allusion]

If you're looking for a brass set - - -

This... http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=410835#productTabReviews

 

[Drail]

The small ones will be constantly replaced, straightened or ground down. Use a starter punch to break the pin loose and then drive it out. Tool steel punches will do most smithing jobs and last far longer. As soon as you figure out the pin is really in there tight start thinking about mild heat and soaking it for a while. I have large size brass punches and rarely use them except for moving a tightly fitted sight in a dovetail. The smaller ones just aren't stout enough to last. Nylon punches can be useful sometimes.

 

[Jim K]

Cup punches are the thing for many pins, especially on the older guns. Using a flat tip punch results in a poor looking job.

Jim

 

[4v50 Gary]

Back in the '80s, you only needed one set of punches. I bought a set made by Mayhew and still use them to this day.

Then things started to modernize. Because of the use of roll pins, you now need a set of roll pin punches too. Regular punches can get off centered and flare out the roll pin. With its protruding tip, the roll pin punch is self-centered and ensures that the hammer's blow is transferred to the pin.

Like Jim mentioned, cup punches are nice to have too because you don't want to peen your pin flat.

While not absolutely necessary, it's nice to have a set of brass punches or even starter punches. Brass won't mar your and starter punches helps prevents mistakes.

 

[earlthegoat2]

I also make my own.

I turn brass ones on a lathe.

I use straight drill rod that I harden for everything else. I just use the size as it is except for the 1/16 punch I make from 1/8 rod turned down at the end. With a nice small lathe starting punches as well as drifting punches and roll pin punches are easily made. Get a good radius cutter and you have dome pin punches too.