Quantcast
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Putting my 686 back together again...

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by brockgl, Sep 15, 2008.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. brockgl

    brockgl Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2008
    Messages:
    160
    Okay, I took apart my 686 6" tonight for 2 reasons. 1: I wanted to remove the internal lock, and 2: I wanted to shine up my hammer and trigger with some Mother's Mag and Mother's Billet polish. Here are some pictures, and then I'll get to my question.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    My question is: How do I know for sure that I put it back together right? I am fairly mechanically inclined; I work on computers all day as a depot technician so I am use to being gentle and working with very tiny parts. The gun dry fires flawlessly in every position: forward, straight up, upside down, etc... I pretty much took the entire gun apart. The trigger assembly, the hammer, the cylinder were all laid out on a workspace.

    I accomplished what I needed to. The lock was removed, and the trigger and hammer got shined. Anything specific to look for? Or should I be good to go?
     
  2. Noxx

    Noxx Member

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2007
    Messages:
    1,374
    Location:
    SoCal
    You can always pull a few bullets apart and fire a few primer poppers if you want to make sure everything is where it should be.

    Sounds as if you did a careful job of it, you should be fine.
     
  3. Ghost Walker

    Ghost Walker Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2005
    Messages:
    313
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    If it's completely reassembled, the crane closes tight and isn't binding, and the cylinder is indexing OK, then you should be fine.
     
  4. bragood

    bragood Member

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2008
    Messages:
    220
    Are you sure the before and after is correct? Thats a nice looking gun!
     
  5. JohnKSa

    JohnKSa Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2003
    Messages:
    12,151
    Location:
    DFW Area
    Unload the gun, cock the hammer and drop a pencil down the bore eraser end first.

    Aim the gun upward and pull the trigger. If the pencil jumps out of the barrel you've now got a pretty good warm fuzzy that the gun will fire when you want it to.

    From there it's just a matter of checking to see if the cylinder indexes as it should when the trigger is pulled DA.
     
  6. brockgl

    brockgl Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2008
    Messages:
    160
    Rofl, nope! I put the pictures in backwards! lol, I'm not feeling that good tonight and didn't even pay attention. Gonna fix it now
     
  7. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2007
    Messages:
    59,082
    Location:
    Eastern KS
    It very likely won't work if you do that.

    The primers will back out, and with no pressure to re-seat them, the cylinder won't want to turn.

    If you put the hammer block safety bar, and the firing pin back in, it is assembled correctly. There is no "incorrect" way to put a S&W back together and still get it to work DA/SA.

    rcmodel
     
  8. Riss

    Riss Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2002
    Messages:
    981
    Location:
    SE Quad, Penns Woods
    Yup. Need to enlarge the primer flash hole if you fire primered only cases. Do the function test. Pull single action trigger with pencil in bore. DO NOT aim at the dog. The pencil will shoot out. Next do a safety function test. Pencil in bore, single action cocked hammer again, trip the trigger, do not pull it all the way. Tap it with something to get it to trip. Drop safety should engage and not let the hammer fall forward to hit the pencil.
     
  9. Riss

    Riss Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2002
    Messages:
    981
    Location:
    SE Quad, Penns Woods
    The sme could also be done by pulling the trigger and thumbing the hammer down and releasing the trigger before you thumb the hammer all of the way down. The drop safety should still engage and not let the hammer go all the way forward.
     
  10. Noxx

    Noxx Member

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2007
    Messages:
    1,374
    Location:
    SoCal
    Thanks RC, that did not occur to me. With an auto there isn't that little bit of slop for the primer to back into. Live and learn.
     
  11. brockgl

    brockgl Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2008
    Messages:
    160
    Awesome responses, thanks a lot! I did the pencil trick 7 or 8 times and it shot up at the ceiling. And I also lowered the hammer and let go of the trigger before it reached the firing pin and the firing pin never engaged. Thanks a lot. That is probably the only time I'll eve rhave to take the side of my gun.
     
  12. HoosierQ

    HoosierQ Member

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2008
    Messages:
    2,559
    Location:
    Central Indiana.
    How did you fill the hole where the lock was? I have a 642 and want to do the same...although I will hire it done I imagine.
     
  13. brockgl

    brockgl Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2008
    Messages:
    160
    I only removed the flag. I didn't remove the keyhole thing, so there was no hole created, only a small slot to the left of the hammer which on the 686 is hardly noticeable. I also removed the lock from my 642 the same way. The good thing about the 642 is, since the hammer is enclosed, there is no slot made next to the hammer. I just left the "mole" in place. I see no reason to remove it; the look of it doesn't really bother me.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page