Quality AR Armorer's Tools

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Canuc Shooter

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Looking for advice on quality wrenches before laying out the cash. Should I be buying a Tapco Armorer's Tool, or something different? I hate buying stuff that doesn't perform well.
 
J&T makes a good wrench.

If the Tapco wrench is made by the same people that make Tapco stocks, mags & other ultra-tactical stuff, I would stay away from it.
 
I got one of the more generic wrenches, branded by ATI. So far so good, but I haven't done more with it than tighten the castle nut. I got it for $10 more than the Tapco stock wrench, so I'm feeling ok about it so far.
 
Most of the generic (TAPCO, ATI, et al.) action wrenches are cast from soft metal and finish-machined, and the pins on them used to tighten most float tubes will bend and break if you even look at them funny. The DPMS multi-tool, on the other hand, uses hardened steel pins pressed into the tool, and they will last for a good while.

I tend to use the PRI wrenches for float tubes (since I finally did manage to break a pin on a DPMS multi-tool after assembling dozens of uppers) and the DPMS multi-tool for just about everything else.

I am also very partial to the DPMS upper action block design, since it's easy to use and provides good support for the upper receiver.
 
I'd suggest you check out Brownells for your AR and any othe gunsmith tools. I also would assume that they would also ship to Canada. An excellent company to deal with in my opinion.
 
Ditto, on Brownell's. Great company, and they INSIST on your being happy with their products. I'm pretty sure that I'm using the Smith tool, which is a barrel nut wrench with a cut for the flash-hider, and a hole for a torque wrench.
 
With the exception of the Hammerhead tool, I haven't found any multi-tools for AR's that work better then individual tools.

For traditional barrel nuts I find the PRI's wrench is hard to beat. With 5 pins it can get off very tight barrel nuts without breaking teeth and works well with many free float handguards.

-4" or larger vise mounted to a solid surface.
-Removable derlin pads for the vise.
-Barrel vise jaws (aka brass or aluminum vise pipe jaws from plumber's supply place)
-DPMS upper receiver block.
-PRI barrel nut wrench
-24" 1/2" drive breaker bar
-1/2" drive beam torque wrench
-Hammerhead tool
or - Brownells M4 stock wrench
---- 3/4" and 5/8" tappet wrench
-Sinclair bolt tool
-A set of roll pin punches
-A set of drive pin punches
-A set of ball end and regular hex wrenches.
-Channel lock pliers or a vice grips
-Screw driver for the grip
-Small Butane torch for loosening loctite
-Purple, blue and red loctite
-Acetone
-Loctite silver anti-seize (or any other non graphite anti-seize)
-Pipe wrench for removing stuck barrel nuts
-Strap wrench
 
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Used this on two builds so far and have had no trouble. On one build I had to do as instructed by PRI on their hand guard and torque the barrel nut to max 65 ft lbs if unable to get the gas tube hole to line up properly using the standard sequence of torquing the barrel nut to 50 ft lbs 3x's and on the 4th time try and go for 40 ft lbs exactly. So don't let someone's remark of "the pins on them used to tighten most float tubes will bend and break if you even look at them funny" bother you.:rolleyes:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=54530/Product/Tapco-Armorers-Wrench

I even like the powder coating job they have on it too.
 
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