243winxb
Member
You should be ok with the starting loads of Red Dot? Fast powers like RD can increase pressures quickly. Be careful.
I tried RD with kapok as a filler. Didnt help in 30-06
I tried RD with kapok as a filler. Didnt help in 30-06
Nothing wrong with those results.My first range test at 50 yards. 106 gr NOE bore rider,powder coated..
Looks like you have it figured out. Nice shooting.trial and error..
My first range test at 50 yards. 106 gr NOE bore rider,powder coated..
Appreciate your post. Very helpful indeed.johnnyMy thoughts, no experence.
243 win Rifle bore is .237" to .239" by the SAAMI drawing. To reduce the as cast bullet nose diameter, use an alloy of pure lead & tin. NO antimony. 10 to 1 would be harder then WW.
Or size the nose, better? A different alloy will change the bullets body diameter. May not be good?
I think the bullet nose should engage the lands? Closing the bolt action should require some effect, i think?
Youtube has a Noe sizing set up. Starts at 16 minutes in. The nose sizing starts around 23 minutes.
I used to shoot Lyman cast in a 30-06, 1903 Springfield. No bore rider.
He's using lube. I size mine coated and their pretty easy but not that easy.I don't believe that video. He makes it look to easy,must be only sizing like .ooo5.....
Your right. I think they'll work with gas checks..time will tell,I loaded some up today, I hope to get to the range Monday morning, weather permitting..My thoughts, no experence.
243 win Rifle bore is .237" to .239" by the SAAMI drawing. To reduce the as cast bullet nose diameter, use an alloy of pure lead & tin. NO antimony. 10 to 1 would be harder then WW.
Or size the nose, better? A different alloy will change the bullets body diameter. May not be good?
I think the bullet nose should engage the lands? Closing the bolt action should require some effect, i think?
I would expect that from a high pressure overbore rifle round. If I had to pick a pressure 40kpsi is probably a reasonable number for major improvements using Gas checks on cast. That reasoning is why I don't use them on pistols.Without the gas check they go all over the place
Tins primary use is to help the mold fill out and helps reduce the weight of the bullet closer to listed. It does add hardness but is not a cost effective way to do it. I've never used a nose sizer so I got nothing there.Why do I need to add tin to lead if it has no effect on the hardness. My NOE bullet nose it to big to chamber. And I am going to powder coat them as well. Besides I have no tin. Only a little of pewter. This mold was in my mind a waste of money and the nose sizers were a waste. So I'm thinking pure lead so I can use it. Not sure what mv I can push them. Any advice on this?
* This i dont understand.*Basic Rules for Hardening Lead-
For every 1% additional tin, Brinell hardness increases 0.3.
For every 1% additional antimony, Brinell hardness increases 0.9.
For a simple equation,
*Brinell = 8.60 (Antimonial Lead) + ( 0.29 * Tin ) + ( 0.92 * Antimony ) *
I don't have a way to test for elements so I'm left testing actual hardness. The only thing I care about is what I get, as I'm working with scrap.From Roto metals * This i dont understand.*
Lyman alloy chart- not everyone agrees with it.
View attachment 1144006
I size mine at 243..My thoughts, no experence.
243 win Rifle bore is .237" to .239" by the SAAMI drawing. To reduce the as cast bullet nose diameter, use an alloy of pure lead & tin. NO antimony. 10 to 1 would be harder then WW.
Or size the nose, better? A different alloy will change the bullets body diameter. May not be good?
I think the bullet nose should engage the lands? Closing the bolt action should require some effect, i think?