243winxb
Member
The Gold Cup does come with a lighter spring, true. But my S&W 645 runs 4.2gr also. But both are well broke in.
My guess is , no.
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Question about lead buildup in barrel
- Thread starter Spartan299
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GP100man
Member
Measure an unseated boolit ,then pull 1 & measure it .
Should be the same , if not ya gotta expand the case some how or back off the crimping a little .
Shoot as big a boolit that`ll chamber reliably .
Choreboy pot scrubbers(full copper , alot are copper coated so check em with a magnet) wrapped around an old brush to a tite fit & your favorite solvent will make short work of that foulin !!!
Should be the same , if not ya gotta expand the case some how or back off the crimping a little .
Shoot as big a boolit that`ll chamber reliably .
Choreboy pot scrubbers(full copper , alot are copper coated so check em with a magnet) wrapped around an old brush to a tite fit & your favorite solvent will make short work of that foulin !!!
orrwdd
Member
Get a Lewis Lead Remover kit on your next bullet order from Missouri Bullets. Then when the mistakes happen, it will be easier to clean it out.
I have never had leading from Missouri Bullets since I load for the velocities they are made for. I bought another brand (not internet vendor) in a pinch once. This caused me to buy the Lewis and swear not to do that again!!
Brad and his guys make GOOD STUFF.
Bill
I have never had leading from Missouri Bullets since I load for the velocities they are made for. I bought another brand (not internet vendor) in a pinch once. This caused me to buy the Lewis and swear not to do that again!!
Brad and his guys make GOOD STUFF.
Bill
stork
Member
Spartan,
I'm assuming from your question that you're looking for the most accurate load out of your 45. My opinions below are based on a relatively hard cast bullet BN 15-19 for shooting Bullseye. Test your loads at 50 yards, at 25 yards nearly everything should shoot well in a properly set up 1911.
First velocity: I've found from thousands of rounds tested with a Ransom Rest that the sweet spot for accuracy for a cast bullet, from the 45 ACP in the 185 to 200 grain range, seems to be from 650-750 fps. This goes out the window when using jacketed bullets, they like to go faster. For Bullseye powder try from 3.5 to 4.2 as was previously posted.
Second leading: You get leading when the bullet diameter is not at least.0005-.001 OVER your bore diameter. For much more information read these articles by Glen E. Fryxell at this link. A very knowledgeable writer on the Black Art of the silver stream.
http://www.lasc.us/ArticlesFryxell.htm
The type of bullet lube has a lot to do with the amount of leading you can get. For target velocities a soft lube is best, it will seal the bore and not allow flame cutting. Most commercial casters use a lube that is too hard. It works well for looks, shipping and handling, but also doesn't seal as well as the soft lubes do.
Another excellent site is Cast Boolits dot com. I've learned more there than I can remember.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/index.php?
Spring weight: I use an accurized loaded Springfield with a slide mount for my wad gun in Bullseye competition. For indoors at 50' and 25 yards outdoors I use 3.5 of either Clays or Bullseye interchangeably and crimped to .465. I also use a 12# spring BUT that's because of the added weight of the slide mount and dot. You should not have to go that light with open sights. Your choice, but I wouldn't go less than a 14# and would rather go with a 16# Wolff variable if your pistol will function with it. I use a 16# spring on my hardball 45 with these loads and it will function for over 150 rounds without malfunction. Your pistol will tell you if it's too heavy a spring, with failure's to eject and chamber. Go down 1# at a time, you don't want to be battering your frame if it's not necessary. And remember, springs aren't forever they wear out, replace them at least every 5000 rounds. Less if you are using full house loads.
Other points:
Experiment with the amount of crimp on your ammo, especially at 50 yards. My first 2 Kart barrels on my Wad gun and Hardball gun loved a very hard crimp, .463-.465. Neither shot well with .468-.470. My current Kart barrel on my wad gun likes a .468. Changing the crimp changed my groups from a 4" group to 1 3/4" group in certain 1911's. At 50' and 25 yards I normally crimp to at least .468 to keep reliable functioning at the end of a 2700 match.
As a general rule the harder the bullet-the harder the crimp. Softer swaged bullets with a BN of 5-9 should not be crimped below .469.
Good luck on your quest. Ask many questions, there's no point in trying to reinvent the wheel and there's no such thing as a dumb question.
Stork
I'm assuming from your question that you're looking for the most accurate load out of your 45. My opinions below are based on a relatively hard cast bullet BN 15-19 for shooting Bullseye. Test your loads at 50 yards, at 25 yards nearly everything should shoot well in a properly set up 1911.
First velocity: I've found from thousands of rounds tested with a Ransom Rest that the sweet spot for accuracy for a cast bullet, from the 45 ACP in the 185 to 200 grain range, seems to be from 650-750 fps. This goes out the window when using jacketed bullets, they like to go faster. For Bullseye powder try from 3.5 to 4.2 as was previously posted.
Second leading: You get leading when the bullet diameter is not at least.0005-.001 OVER your bore diameter. For much more information read these articles by Glen E. Fryxell at this link. A very knowledgeable writer on the Black Art of the silver stream.
http://www.lasc.us/ArticlesFryxell.htm
The type of bullet lube has a lot to do with the amount of leading you can get. For target velocities a soft lube is best, it will seal the bore and not allow flame cutting. Most commercial casters use a lube that is too hard. It works well for looks, shipping and handling, but also doesn't seal as well as the soft lubes do.
Another excellent site is Cast Boolits dot com. I've learned more there than I can remember.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/index.php?
Spring weight: I use an accurized loaded Springfield with a slide mount for my wad gun in Bullseye competition. For indoors at 50' and 25 yards outdoors I use 3.5 of either Clays or Bullseye interchangeably and crimped to .465. I also use a 12# spring BUT that's because of the added weight of the slide mount and dot. You should not have to go that light with open sights. Your choice, but I wouldn't go less than a 14# and would rather go with a 16# Wolff variable if your pistol will function with it. I use a 16# spring on my hardball 45 with these loads and it will function for over 150 rounds without malfunction. Your pistol will tell you if it's too heavy a spring, with failure's to eject and chamber. Go down 1# at a time, you don't want to be battering your frame if it's not necessary. And remember, springs aren't forever they wear out, replace them at least every 5000 rounds. Less if you are using full house loads.
Other points:
Experiment with the amount of crimp on your ammo, especially at 50 yards. My first 2 Kart barrels on my Wad gun and Hardball gun loved a very hard crimp, .463-.465. Neither shot well with .468-.470. My current Kart barrel on my wad gun likes a .468. Changing the crimp changed my groups from a 4" group to 1 3/4" group in certain 1911's. At 50' and 25 yards I normally crimp to at least .468 to keep reliable functioning at the end of a 2700 match.
As a general rule the harder the bullet-the harder the crimp. Softer swaged bullets with a BN of 5-9 should not be crimped below .469.
Good luck on your quest. Ask many questions, there's no point in trying to reinvent the wheel and there's no such thing as a dumb question.
Stork
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