Question about shooting CZs in single action

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John G C 1

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I was shooting someone's CZ 75 SA today and I notice the hammer rocks back a little before the trigger breaks.

Do you push through the rock back with one smooth pull into the break...... or do you try to go halfway through the rock back of the hammer and then pull through.?

Any reason to prefer one method over the other? Just curious. Thanks
 
I was shooting someone's CZ 75 SA today and I notice the hammer rocks back a little before the trigger breaks.

Do you push through the rock back with one smooth pull into the break...... or do you try to go halfway through the rock back of the hammer and then pull through.?

Any reason to prefer one method over the other? Just curious. Thanks

All CZ triggers exhibit some amount of camming. Some more than others. There are ways to correct it but it requires replacing hammer and sear replacement from someone like CGW. If you are going to shoot it stock I recommend smooth pull or controlled slap until it breaks. Ignore what the hammer is doing.
 
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Thanks. The one I was shooting today cammed quite a bit. I would not tell someone to avoid CZ because of this. It was no big deal. but it did seem there were two ways to handle it.
 
All CS triggers exhibit some amount of camming. Some more than others. There are ways to correct it but it requires replacing hammer and sear replacement from someone like CGW. If you are going to shoot it stock I recommend smooth pull or controlled slap until it breaks. Ignore what the hammer is doing.


This is really the only answer you need. My stock 75 BD has quite a bit of camming in SA. The trigger pull is surprisingly similar to a Springfield XDM.

The competition oriented guns (shadow 2, etc) are significantly better. Maybe not 1911 quality crispness, but close enough to not matter much.
 
My 75B SA does it as well. It's noticable in slow fire if you're gently pulling the trigger waiting for the break. For a service type pistol I think the stock trigger is quite nice, especially after breaking in with a few thousand rounds.

I'd really like to trick it out with a hammer that didn't cam, take-up and over travel set screws and some nice big target sights. Maybe one of these days.
 
You can take some off the hammer hooks, and eliminate most of the camming, without changing the positive angle on the face. You retain the factory engagement that way, but loose all the creep. Somewhere on the CZ Forum is a DIY trigger section, telling you how much of the hammer hooks to remove, or more importantly, how much to retain for safe engagement. I did this, left more hook then they said, installed a CGW flat blade trigger, and polished all the contact points on the trigger bar, eliminated the block safety(Turning it into a pre B, or 85 combat) set the trigger set screws, and WOW!!!! Nice, crisp 3# trigger, with way less take up, no over travel.
 
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