Question Regarding Polishing the Trigger Face of S&W 617 Revolver

[cesarf]

I currently own a Smith & Wesson 617 revolver. It has the cased colored wide target trigger with no serrations.

I shoot it mainly in DA mode, with respectable accuracy.

A fellow shooter told me that my accuracy could improve if I sent my gun to the local gunsmith, so the trigger could be narrowed, rounded and polished to a mirror finish.

My question is, if I decide to have the trigger polished, rounded, etc. by the local gunsmith so it can suit me better for DA shooting, will it tend to rust due to the case colored finished being removed for this procedure?

I know that there will be no wear increase of the polished trigger´s face, because it will only be touched by my finger and not another metallic part, but will it tend to rust? If so, how can it be protected?

Thank you.

Rgds

 

[earplug]

Take care of it.

I have a couple revolvers I narrowed and polished the trigger. Haven't had any rust here in Colorado. Some people have sweat that will rust a finger print on a firearm in hours.
I would go on Ebay or Gunbroker and look for a good stainless trigger and possibly a hammer if your lucky. Keep your stock trigger and work on the new one. Many will fit without much work. If you get a hammer consider dehorning it for your DA fun.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

I am pretty sure the trigger on your 617 is made of Stainless steel, with a fake finish that makes it look like it was case hardened. I just took mine out, a 617-6, and the finish is nothing like the traditional true Case Hardening on the hammer and trigger of a blued Smith and Wesson revolver. While it is true that under the right conditions Stainless steel will corrode, if I am correct, and your trigger is made of Stainless, polishing away the fake 'case colored' finish will not change its ability to withstand corrosion.

Besides, true case hardening, like on the hammer and trigger of this 44 Hand Ejector 4th Model, does not provide any protection from corrosion. Case Hardening is not like blueing, which provides a barrier to atmospheric oxygen contacting the steel. Case Hardening is a process to infuse extra carbon into the surface of the steel, which hardens the surface. The colors are incidental to the process and they have no intrinsic value themselves. The way to prevent true Case Hardened steel from corroding is to keep a light coating of oil on it.

 

[Old Fuff]

The trigger that's now in your revolver was designed by Bill Jordan - a Border Patrolman who was famous for his fast-draw combat shooting. Most of what he did was using the revolver's double-action mode, and the triggers in his personal revolvers were modified for that purpose. Eventually S&W made what he did a standard production item.

Which is to say that what you have probably wouldn't gain much through additional polishing. This is sort of like those who purchase a new Colt 1911 platform pistol and take it to a gunsmith(?) to have the barrel throated and polished, being completely unaware that it has come from the factory with this already done.

Put bluntly, you're gunsmith is proposing to reinvent the wheel, and in the process move some money from your pocket to his.

 

[Coyote3855]

All good answers to your original question. Are you having issues with the current trigger configuration? While I have never had this modification to any of my revolvers, I can't imagine the improvement in comfort, speed, or accuracy would be significant enough to justify the expense. I do dislike the grooved triggers. If I were shooting or carrying my S&W 64 with greater frequency, I would consider having the trigger polished to remove the serrations. Just my opinion.

 

[HexHead]

I doubt replacing the target trigger will improve accuracy.

 

[Jim Watson]

I don't even like a smooth polished DA trigger. I prefer dull serrations, but the mill finish on the factory smooth is acceptable. I would leave it alone or possibly break the edges.