Question(s) on Blade styles:

[XD45]

Alright, I am currently in the market for a good folding knife, but before I jump into a purchase I have some questions. The biggest one is related to the blade style. So here it goes:

-What are the advantages/disadvantages of the various Blade styles? i.e. Drop-point vs. Tanto vs. Spear vs. Utility

-Is there an actual, practical, usable advantage to having an American-Tanto style blade versus a traditional tanto, or is it more for looks?

-Any advantages of a chisel grind vs. a hollow grind?

-Any other aspects of blade design that affect usability, durability?

So far as the other questions, would it be better to post them in a separate thread or include them later in this one?

Thank you all in advance.

 

[Kingcreek]

-What are the advantages/disadvantages of the various Blade styles? i.e. Drop-point vs. Tanto vs. Spear vs. Utility

Drop point is a good all-around profile, spear point is good for piercing thrusts if you feel the need, Tanto- I hate them and don't own one or see any advantage, utility is usually a little straighter edge and well...utilitarian- good for most cutting chores but not so much for skinning game, etc.

-Is there an actual, practical, usable advantage to having an American-Tanto style blade versus a traditional tanto, or is it more for looks?

see above

-Any advantages of a chisel grind vs. a hollow grind?

possible stronger and easier to sharpen? I like them on my chisels but not on my knives.

Any other aspects of blade design that affect usability, durability?

type of steel and heat treat are foremost.
I prefer a single-edge, drop point in the 3-3.5" range for a do-everything knife.

 

[kellyj00]

Tanto point seems to be stronger.

As far as folding knives go... benchmade is the only way to go. Simply, I've never seen one break.

I've got a buck liner lock that was just a drop point 3" blade, had it for years. I broke off the tip and ended up turning it into a tanto type blade, it's kinda wierd shaped but I tell ya, it comes in Handy quite often. It was a $20 knife at walmart years ago.

Also, i've got a bud-k special (cheap generic stuff) in tanto point. It's stainless and fixed blade. It's about 3/16" thick near the handle, very solid knife.

No matter what knife you get, be sure you pick up a decent stone to sharpen it. I say Stone because you only really need one. I think the stones that have two sides of different grit are the best... check out lee valley hardware, they've got some excellent stones. I use a 6000 grit stone for all my knives, and just plain old concrete to get them into shape if they're EXTREMELY dull or rusty. A good sharpening stone is worth it's weight in gold because you can use it for your kitchen knives, filet knives, pocket knives, exacto blades, razor/box blades. I sharpen once a month or so (depending on use) in front of the TV with an old spray bottle of water and an old bathroom towel. It takes hours to get a beat up knife (or any new knife that isn't a name brand) up to snuff.

Sorry, i know this thread is about what knife to purchase and I went off topic, but I think knife sharpening is one of those things that is rarely talked about but really should be. There's nothing worse than trying to filet a crappie with a less than sharp filet knife...I've been there.

 

[Kingcreek]

I broke off the tip and ended up turning it into a tanto type blade,

and just plain old concrete to get them into shape if they're EXTREMELY dull or rusty.

note to self:
DO NOT loan Jason Kelly any of my good knives!
The Tantos may be a little stronger, but you will never break the tip off of a quality blade if the knife is used properly.
I don't let my knives get dull. It's much easier to touch them up frequently and keep them razor sharp than to have to bring a dulled edge back.

 

[eliphalet]

I much prefer hollow grind I like the way they cut sharpen and to work with also. Get good steel whatever you get, if weight is not a concern a older Buck 110 is very good strong folder, the new ones are about half as good.

Nice light knives are available now but i have wondered how well they hold up to much work and will the blade stay nice and tight. Go to Bucks web site and take a look you can have a custom 110 made in the $100 range with great steel, or learn the markings and buy a pre 1980 with 440C steel older one like I use for under $50 off ebay in new condition.

Take a look at my post in the "do I have a good knife" thread. I like that kind of tip too but they can be broke just be careful mine is about 30 years old and used plenty with no ill effects.
Careful on over sharpening too, learn on cheap stuff how to get a good edge and once you do it can be kept that way without much work or wear to they knife blade. I wore out a couple of second hand store knives learning how to get edge right, that was about 40 years ago and i haven't forgot how.
Invest in a good ceramic steel is a good idea, they are great to bring back a edge on a good knife without wearing it out on a stone,.
If your gonna cut cardboard or carpet and things like that get a cheap knife to do those jobs.

I am not sure what all is on the market in the stone dept. but I bought two of the Norton professional length, 10 or 12 inches, fine and another medium stones, cost a couple of bucks but will last you a lifetime unless you use it professionally or abuse em. I have used some diamonds ones but i didn't care for the ones I tried. Someone mentioned water as a lube, I never use oil on my stones hot or warm water works better, sometimes a couple of drops of dish soap even, and the stone doesn't get all gummed up and become almost, if not unuseable.

 

[coelacanth]

without some idea of usage or price range. . . . .

it's hard to narrow the field down much but here goes. 1) Keep the blade under four inches. 2)Keep the locking mechanism simple and robust( I prefer liner locks) 3)High carbon stainless steel is the way to go ( 440c , AUS 8 ,154 cm, ATS34 ) 4)Handle material can be synthetic if there is a metal liner for strength. 5)Choose a blade shape that is easy to sharpen( spear point, clip point or some variation of the two. Avoid the tanto style as it conveys no practical advantage for most usage and is more difficult to sharpen. Avoid serrated or partially serrated blades for the same reason - no practical advantage over a well sharpened blade and tough to keep sharpened.) 6) Buy the best quality you can afford. Makers I like include Al Mar, Buck, Benchmade, Case, Camillus, CRKT, Ka Bar, Kershaw, Lone Wolf, S.O.G., Spyderco, Victorinox. 7) If the blade does not come with a belt pouch then buy one. I can't tell you the number of people who've lost their folder because the flared tip of the pocket clip caught on something (like a seat belt ) and flicked that pricey little sucker right out of their pocket without them ever knowing it. It is also a favorite tactic of low-life pick pocket types to walk around with a loop of fishing line and snag that same clip while you're in a crowd or distracted and bingo - your loss, their gain. Well, there you have it - my official opinion. I hope it's worth what you paid for it

 

[coelacanth]

hey eliphalet, nice tip . . . . .

on the Norton stones and the ceramic sharpener. I also use the warm water and dish soap trick on my Nortons and they never get clogged or gummed up.

 

[XD45]

without some idea of usage or price range. . . . .
it's hard to narrow the field down much but here goes.

Price Range: Under $200, preferably under $150
Usage: As part of a field kit for a USMC Rifleman (MOS: 0311). I might be getting ahead of myself, but I am trying to decide what to get once I'm in, and I ship for boot in two months. (fyi: i'm not a kid, I'm mid-twenties and just recently decided to join) I would also like to be able to use the knife as an EDC, but that is not a necessity.

So far as locking mechanisms are concerned, I am a fan of the Benchmade axis system, but not opposed to liner-locks. I am primarily interested in Benchmade's Blue class knives (or knives of similar quality from other makers).

Also, just a request, but I am hoping to keep this thread related directly to the differences in blades (points, grinds, steels, etc), since that is the what i am focused on researching right now. Once I decide on the blade features most important to me, I'll start narrowing down the actual knives.

I appreciate all the advice so far guys. Please, keep it coming.

So far as the other questions, would it be better to post them in a separate thread or include them later in this one?

 

[Boats]

In my view, modern tantos are good for stabbing and make for poor cutters due to having little or no belly.

They look cool if that is important.

I think the best balance of price, utility, toughness, and user friendlyness on the market today is the 4th Generation Spyderco Endura with ZDP-189 steel.

The steel is stainless and remarkably sharp with really good wear characteristics. The lock back mechanism, now bolstered by skeletal steel liners embedded in the fiberglass reinforced nylon scales, is about as tough as anyone needs and as close to maintenance free as a lock gets. Unlimited clip mounting options too.

Of course it also has the Spyderhole, which is still the best opening feature for anyone wearing gloves.

Best thing is that this high quality piece is available online for under $90.00 after shipping. If someone is in a $150.00 price range, you could still throw in a Gen 4 Endura back-up in the still excellent VG-10 stainless steel for about $50.00 and have two really tough and really sharp knives.

 

[Valkman]

I much prefer a hollow grind and don't much like tanto's, but I make mostly hunting knives and find tanto blades about useless. I'd think a soldier would want something good for fighting and stabbing, so it needs a point.

As Kingcreek said, it's all about the heat treat and steel. If you go with Buck they have the best heat treat guy in the business, Paul Bos.

 

[XD45]

...4th Generation Spyderco Endura with ZDP-189 steel...

I just got done researching that steel, and it sound fantastic. The only problem is, I can't find it listed on Spyderco's website as a steel used. The Spyderco forums lead me to believe that the ZDP blades were limited runs. The Enduras are all listed as using VG-10 steel, forcing me to order from an online retailer. Are there any sites that, in your opinion, can be trusted to have ZDP Enduras for sale? Also, I have only seen the Foliage Green handled one, do you know if they came in black?

I am not saying that the Endura is the knife I am going to get, but it is interesting. I am still looking at Benchmades though, since have always seemed to be the easiest/smoothest opening knives, and the now feature the Spyderhole on some models. I'll have to check out the Spydercos at my local store.

 

[jpw23]

XD45.....you never said what you were going to use the knife for. I'm an electrician and an Old Timer 3 blade pocket knife does all I need on the job and skins game very well. Might want to think about the tasks that you want to perform and then look at styles....just my 2 cents

 

[coelacanth]

Benchmade blue series should work well for you.....

I am not personally fond of the axis lock but that is just my personal taste - it is a strong functional lock. Within your price range you have several pretty good choices so just decide on a blade style and you're there. Most of the modern steels are more than up to the task at hand so I wouldn't spend a lot of time worrying about which one is best. Good luck and good hunting my friend - our thoughts and prayers go with you.

 

[XD45]

Coelacanth: Thank you for the kind words. Really.
Also, thank you everybody who responded. I appreciate the help. For the time being, I am going to attempt to find one of the Spyderco Gen 4 Enduras with the ZDP-189 steel. I believe I found a website that will work, I am just awaiting shipping confirmation on my order. Eventually, I will probably step into that Blue class Benchmade, once they have more options with the "Spyderhole" which they seem to have licensed.

I am not personally fond of the axis lock but that is just my personal taste...

After checking it out at my local Gander Mountain, I would have to agree that I am less than impressed. I still like the concept, but after fumbling with one, I can't imagine trying to use it one handed, wearing gloves.....Another reason I am going spyderco for now.

Once again, thank you all.

 

[SaMx]

If you want a military knife you could try the spyderco military.

 

[earthworm]

PM sent.
You might wait until you get out of Basic/Boot camp before you decide.That way you'll have an idea of where you're going & what your needs will be & I understand the big boys frown on boots bringing knives to camp:seems good steel gets confiscated or just 'grows legs'.