Questions about Breech Plug Lube & Cleaning Frequency

[Captains1911]

For a Remington 700 ML, is regular metallic based anti-seize, like what you would find at an automotive store, or even shotgun choke tube lube, ok to use on breech plug and nipple threads?

Regarding cleaning frequency, do these parts need to be removed and cleaned after a specific number of rounds (similar to the bore), or can they just cleaned at home after a shooting session?

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

I use copper anti seize and remove the breech plug every time I clean an inline.

 

[Captains1911]

I use copper anti seize and remove the breech plug every time I clean an inline.

So if you are at the range, and clean the bore every 3 shots, you also remove and clean the breech plug every 3 shots?

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

So if you are at the range, and clean the bore every 3 shots, you also remove and clean the breech plug every 3 shots?

I don't clean every three shots.
If you mean swabbing the bore, then no don't remove the breech plug with that type of gun. A patch with alcohol works well for swabbing between shots. The foil packed alcohol pads from the drug store are convenient.

 

[arcticap]

No. The breech plug does not need to be removed and cleaned every time that you swab the bore.

Swabbing the bore is not the same as cleaning.

But I do hope that you realize that the Remington 700 ML is well known for having a bolt design that allows powder residue to invade the action.
It can be a potentially very problematic design due to rust seizing up the action over time.
Badger Ridge Industries has a lot of information showing how they can convert your bolt to virtually eliminate most blow back from getting into it.
They show how totally rusted and frozen that the bolt can become without proper cleaning to the point to where they're the only outfit that's willing to fix it.
And they show how they do it and how well it works.
They can seal the bolt from getting any blowback into the action with their conversion breech plug and reworked bolt.
Check out the links or their youtube channel.--->>> https://www.badgerridgeind.com/700-ml-resources.html
Youtube channel--->>> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyTPWWDSS1viKB_mE1Ak1Gw

 

[Captains1911]

No. The breech plug does not need to be removed and cleaned every time that you swab the bore.

Swabbing the bore is not the same as cleaning.

But I do hope that you realize that the Remington 700 ML is well known for having a bolt design that allows powder residue to invade the action.
It can be a potentially very problematic design due to rust seizing up the action over time.
Badger Ridge industries has many videos showing how they convert your bolt to virtually eliminate most blow back from getting into it.
They show how totally rusted and frozen that the bolt can become without proper cleaning to the point to where they're the only outfit that's willing to fix it.
And they show how they do it and how well it works.
They can seal the bolt from getting any blowback into the action with their conversion breech plug and reworked bolt.
Check out the links or their youtube channel.--->>> https://www.badgerridgeind.com/700-ml-resources.html
Youtube channel--->>> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyTPWWDSS1viKB_mE1Ak1Gw

Thanks for the heads up. I did disassemble the bolt and found quite a bit of corrosion, but was able to clean most of it off with a scotchbrite pad and some elbow grease. It is still functional and I've successfully test fired a few percussion caps to ensure function. I will be sure to make cleaning inside the bolt part of my routine.

 

[arcticap]

They do sell replacement mainsprings and will try to fix deteriorated bolts.

 

[Captains1911]

No. The breech plug does not need to be removed and cleaned every time that you swab the bore.

Swabbing the bore is not the same as cleaning.

But I do hope that you realize that the Remington 700 ML is well known for having a bolt design that allows powder residue to invade the action.
It can be a potentially very problematic design due to rust seizing up the action over time.
Badger Ridge Industries has a lot of information showing how they can convert your bolt to virtually eliminate most blow back from getting into it.
They show how totally rusted and frozen that the bolt can become without proper cleaning to the point to where they're the only outfit that's willing to fix it.
And they show how they do it and how well it works.
They can seal the bolt from getting any blowback into the action with their conversion breech plug and reworked bolt.
Check out the links or their youtube channel.--->>> https://www.badgerridgeind.com/700-ml-resources.html
Youtube channel--->>> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyTPWWDSS1viKB_mE1Ak1Gw

Is the scope burning an issue they mention a real problem using #11 caps with the factory bolt?

 

[arcticap]

I don't know about the Remington.
A lot of older #11 rifles could singe scope paint or spread powder residue on the bottom of the scope.
TC used to make a protective scope cover but it's been discontinued.--->>> https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/thompson-center-muzzleloader-scope-protector?a=56866

A person can make something similar out of a piece of neoprene or leatherette and some velcro straps, rubber bands or just plain tape.--->>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Black-N...32743469633?hash=item4d790e6a41:rk:5:pf:0&var

Or cut up an old garden glove.

 

[Captains1911]

I don't know about the Remington.
A lot of older #11 rifles could singe scope paint or spread powder residue on the bottom of the scope.
TC used to make a protective scope cover but it's been discontinued.--->>> https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/thompson-center-muzzleloader-scope-protector?a=56866

A person can make something similar out of a piece of neoprene or leatherette and some velcro straps, rubber bands or just plain tape.--->>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Black-N...32743469633?hash=item4d790e6a41:rk:5:pf:0&var

Or cut up an old garden glove.

Thanks for all the info, I'm completely new to muzzle loading if you can't tell. I am considering this 209 conversion, but have one main hesitation. I just bought this muzzle loader used, and there is some noticeable corrosion inside the bore. It's not the entire bore, just spots here and there, especially near the breech end. I've been working on cleaning it out the best I can using oil, solvents, bronze brushes, and some 000 steel wool wrapped around a brush. I've made a lot of progress to where the rifling lands are nice and shiny for the most part, however there are a handful of spots where corrosion still exists in the grooves, especially towards the breech. One spot near the breech still feels rough when I pass a cotton patch through it, however, it doesn't appear to be pitted, just rough. The front sight is broken, and I was planning to buy a scope anyway to see how it shoots, but am somewhat hesitant to put anymore money into it considering the condition of the bore.

I've heard some people say this level of corrosion is fairly common for muzzle loaders and may not be an issue at all, especially if using sabots. I would just hate to put money into a scope, base, mount, and this bolt conversion just to find out it doesn't shoot. What is your opinion on the bore issue?

 

[arcticap]

I agree that it doesn't sound to be in perfect enough condition to justify investing a lot of money into it.
The bore is the most import part of a gun.
The rough spot may be erosion from shooting hot loads like of 777, but not sure.
Just shoot it and have some fun with it, and see how it performs.
People can invest a lot of money into the 700ML buying a replacement barrel, converting them to shoot with smokeless powder etc...
IMO it's not really worth it unless you have a lot of extra money to burn.
If you don't expect too much out of it then you won't be as disappointed and may end up being pleasantly surprised.
It's very possible that it will shoot reasonably well.
Just try to maintain it the best that you can.
Inlines are really good for hunting, but for fun plinking and target shooting at moderate distances it's hard to beat patched round balls.
And Remington cap & ball revolvers are a blast too.
With muzzle loading, pinpoint accuracy is not always the highest priority.
But having fun is.
If you can find a load that shoots reasonably well then it sounds like the gun will do okay.
There's always different conicals, sabots, bullets and powders to try.
If you end up not being happy with it then you can always try to sell it.
For about $250 you can buy a new 1 in 48" twist muzzle loader that can shoot patched round balls & sabots, or a Remington revolver.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

For me as long as the pitting isn't too deep I would go with it. Where the problems come in is at the muzzle and crown. If the crown is damaged accuracy suffers. Most of the time the muzzle can be recrowned and accuracy restored. As long as the rifling is still well defined some pitting likely won't make a difference.