Questions on 1917 Enfield...How to Know What to Buy??

[Nalapombu]

Hey all,

Yesterday at the range a guy next to me had a K-31 Swiss and it was great. I have always loved C&R rifles and old military weapons and all the way home I thought about what I could get to take to the range and have some fun without worrying whether my groups were under 1 inch at 100 yards and such. Just something FUN to shoot at the range. Since I have access to 300 yards now, I definitely want to be able to shoot that far. I also might want to mount a scope on whatever rifle I choose too.

I have always loved the Garand and the '03 Springfield, but those are out of my price range. Then thought about the Mauser 98 clones that were so available a few years ago and they are a possibility. I could get one and make it into an "Enemy at the Gates" rifle which would be really cool. The other option I was told about last night was the 1917 Enfield. I checked them out and they look really nice. The problem is that they are all over the place and I wouldn't know what one to buy for a shooter. I could end up buying one that was only fit for a wall hanger. I also seen a lot of these old Enfields that were "sporterized" to make a hunting rifle years ago. Would it be a good idea to get one of these Enfields and get an original stock and try to get it back to original configuration? I need some advice on these 1917 Enfields for sure, I don't know near enough about them to protect myself from buying a mistake.

Any other idea on other rifles that would be a lot of fun at the range, let me know.

Thanks for your time.

Nalajr

 

[Jim Watson]

"Re-miling" a sporterized service rifle will be a challenge, so many of the surplus parts that used to be so cheap have been used up or discarded. The 1917 presents an additional problem because it was usual to cut off the rear sight "ears" to make way for a scope or hunting peep. I guess you could return one to military configuration as long as it had the original barrel, trigger guard, and sights; as did a lot of minimum sporters with nothing done except to cut down the stock.

 

[Cribbage]

Well, as someone who has dabbled a bit in U.S. C&R type weapons, I'd say 1) establish your max price, 2) and 3) find the best barrel and highest serial number that price will allow. This is especially true with 1917's because of their age and difficulty in refurbishing.

I wouldn't worry about finding a specimen that has collector value; find one that has shooting quality.

Read up on milsurps on the CMP forum and milsurps.com, as well as here on THR.

Ted

 

[wrench]

There are lots of 1917s out there in original military configuration, I wouldn't buy one that's been sporterized unless you wanted it that way.
Winchesters will usually be the most expensive, then Remingtons, with Eddystones picking up the rear, price-wise.
If you're looking for a shooter, I wouldn't care about the maker, but look for the best bore you can find. Lots of these were VFW honor guard rifles and such, and were shot for years with corrosive blanks. The bores on some are just nasty.
Also, M1 Garands are not necessarily that expensive...
http://www.thecmp.org/

 

[rondog]

Also, M1 Garands are not necessarily that expensive...

No kidding. You could probably find a nice Garand from the CMP cheaper than a comparable 1917 in a gun shop. Been my experience anyway.

 

[PGroenewold]

I picked up a Remington 1917 with a two-groove Johnson Arms barrel at a gun show a few weeks ago. I don't know much about their attributes as a collectible item, but I've always thought they had lots of character and interesting lines, and I was happy to finally add one to my collection. It's a heavy rifle and I found its recoil to be minimal. Most people could shoot it all day long without a sore shoulder. It also has a substantial barrel, and just feels sturdier than the SMLE that it somewhat resembles.

One thing to check before you plunk down your cash is the ejector. It's a really poor design and its integral spring is prone to breakage. If your gun has the old-style ejector, go to Numrich and get yourself one of these. It's a much better setup and will save you picking out the empties by hand when it inevitably breaks.

Good luck,

PG

 

[desidog]

The best place to start is applying for an 03FFL, a Curio and Relic collectors license. It costs 30 bucks for three years, and that will be paid back in your first purchase. With the C&R license, you can have C&R rifles sent to your door, instead of going through a dealer who will charge you a transfer fee (which are absurdly high from 5 minutes of paperwork, in my area).

While you're waiting for the C&R to come through from the ATF, you'll have time to do some research on where to buy.

I think the best value now is the K31; but i also have gotten a Vz24 (Mauser) and an Enfield No4Mk1/3 with mine; both of which are rifles that local stores would mark way up...so it's like getting two for the price of one!

I'd love to help you with precise info on buying a 1917; however, I'm still looking for one myself, and have not bitten the bullet yet, based on questions of price etc. similar to your own.

Whatever you go with, before serious tire-kicking (unless internet ordering) I'd first invest in some head-space gauges for that type of gun. (with a C&R, you'll get a dealer discount, and the ones i bought were 17 bucks each instead of 27 from Midway, IIRC...that C&R keeps paying for itself over and over!) Because headspace can be an issue with older military guns, especially if they have been re-arsenaled or the numbers on the bolt, receiver, and barrel don't match.

 

[BrocLuno]

The JA barrel on PG's gun is from Johnson Automatic (the same folks who built the early war Marines autoloader). JA barrels are mostly two groove, but work well - good steel.

As always, with P1917's look for receiver cracks if they have been rebarreled at an arsenal rebuild. They were often over-torqued and disassembly cracked some. They are usually Eddystones so are sometimes known as Cracked Eddy's. That said, they are tough and often got converted to magnums when sportered.

 

[justgoto]

The problem is that they are all over the place and I wouldn't know what one to buy for a shooter.

I have an Eddystone US Model of 1917, it has a shot out barrel. When I had my scope on it, it shot .75MOA.

I've had this rifle for 30 years, never had to replace any parts and I shoot it a lot. The last 3 videos on my YouTube are of that rifle; it hits a 8 x 8" target at 300 yards, each time in one shot.

The Eddystone plant had problems with proper case hardening in the beginning; I read someplace that they fixed the problem and mine was one of the later/good builds. My serial number is, 1,067,XXX; if you get an unmodified Eddystone with a serial number higher that, the case hardening should be acceptable. I think the other makes will be ok no matter the number.