Help us out
Welcome to hand-loading and thanks for asking our advice. Asking quest
ions is good.
Please take this advice in the spirit in which it is given. I almost bypassed your thread because the subject line was just to uninformative. Please be more specific. I guessed that you are loading for a .45 ACP semi-automatic handgun of the 1911 persuasion. But there are other firearms out there you might be asking about.
My answers are all for the 1911, 5" barrel. Shorter barrels have slightly more feeding problems.
I would suggest a subject line like "45 ACP Lead bullet and other questions" to attract people who have knowledge in those areas. Be specific about the caliber and platform, at least.
I just bought a Dillon RL550B a couple weeks ago and have turned into a re-loading obsessed recluse!! I've got enough ammo to fend off a small Ethiopian army! However...I have me some real questions...cuz' I am a tad confused. Here we go.!
Don't knock the Ethiopians. They may be starving, but deprivation breeds toughness.
1. Is a 230g lead round nose more accurate than a FMJ?
No. Nor the other way around either. It will depend on the gun, the load, the powder. One could be more accurate than the other just as easily as the other way around. The only thing certain is that NO blanket statement can be made.
2. Other than cost...is there any GOOD reason to use FMJ or plated over lead for target shooting?
Sure. Leading would be my major concern. Aside from that, some guns have feeding problems with soft-nosed bullets, but that can be cured by polishing the feed ramp or making the length of the rounds optimal. Experiment.
3. Tonight..I loaded up 400 rounds of 230g LRN, 5.2 g Bullseye at 1.245 OCL. Will I be OK at that combo as to prevent leading?
Try it and see. One of my books says that is an over-max load, another says it is mid-range. It looks good to me and I would have no qualms about shooting them. After the first round, examine the ejected case for signs of pressure (flattened primer, cracks in the case, especially around the mouth, etc) and several rounds thereafter until you are sure. Too much pressure can do more than just damage your barrel or brass. Battering the slide stop takes place over a long period of time. An optimal-weight recoil spring and a slide stop cushion can mitigate that.
4. Is a 230g LRN more reliable out of a 1911 than a 185 or 200g lead SWC?
No. (same answer as #2). You have to try and see. If a bullet hasn't the momentum to cycle your actions, make sure your are not "limp wristing" it. Firing my light target loads, by holding my Gold Cup loosely, I can cause stovepipe jams almost every round, where holding it firmly, it cycles very reliably.
5. I bought 500 rounds of VANCE LRN projectiles from a dealer at the gun show in Tampa and was wondering how good that brand was? OR...what is your experienced feeback?
I have no experience with them.
6. What IS the best lead bullet out there these days?
One made of lead allow hard enough to go up your feed ramp and soft enough to perform with good terminal ballistics. Sorry for the non-answer, but the only thing is"it depends".
7. @ 825-895 FPS, will my barrel load up with lead??
Try it and see. Best answer. Leading can be caused by hot gasses blow-by, by too-high velocity, by too-soft lead (low melting temperature) or by rough barrel. Cures are just as variable. Use gas checks, harder lead, lap (polish) your barrel.
8. Is cast the same as a lead bullet? Dumb question I know..be gentle..I'm fairly new at this whole shooting and re-loading hobby.
Technically, you could cast any material that can melt or harden from a liquid to a solid (cast hot glue bullets make dandy practice rouds and are re-usable, but power them only with primers in specially prepared cases -enlarged primer holes).
Lost Sheep