Random Answers
Difference in Muzzleloading Powders?
I have seen Pyrodex, Goex, Triple 7, American Pioneer...etc. Also I have read about real blackpowder and blackpowder substitutes. What is the story and is one type more reliable or provide higher velocities than the other?
There are two major categories: real black powder and synthetic (or substitute or replica) black powder. Real black powder is made from a very old recipe and is classified by BATFE as an explosive. It is sensitive to heat but not electricity or impact. There are two major brands generally available by mail order and rarely over the counter at specialty shops: Goex and Swiss. Synthetic black powders (Pyrodex, 777, American Pioneer, Goex Pinnacle, Jim Shockey's Gold, Black Mag 3 and others) are made from proprietary formulas and are not considered explosives by BATFE. They can be purchased over the counter at almost any outiftter or muzzleloading supply dealer and by mail order from many suppliers.
Substitute black powders usually have higher ignition temperatures than real black powder but are not necessarily more 'powerful'. They react differently to different weapons, projectiles and even weather conditions. About the only generalization one can make is that 777 is about 10 to 15% more powerful than real black powder; when using it one should REDUCE the charge 10 to 15% from the real black powder charge.
Opinions vary as to whether the substitute black powders are cleaner burning and/or easier to clean than real black powder. In my experience 777 is cleaner and easier to clean than any other powders, but many do not agree with me.
There are also many different opinions about reliability over either short or long term usage.
The best idea is to test your gun with different powders to see what it likes best. Be sure, however, to include real black powder if possible, as that is the standard against which all others are evaluated.
Difference between #11 caps and musket caps?
Is one inherently better than the other?
I'll answer the question you asked and then the one you think you asked:
Musket caps are significantly larger than #11 or #10 caps and require a musket cap nipple. They produce hotter sparks and significantly more sparks than the regular #10/11 percussion caps.
But I think you meant magnum caps; they are the same size as #11 caps but produce hotter sparks. As to whether they are better depends on several factors, but on balance they are slightly better and more reliable over a broader range of conditions.
Nipple, how to tell which is which ... Old TC, TC Hot shot...etc.?
Is one better than the other?
I've not used Hot Shots, so I can't say for sure. I believe they have a radial hole near the tip. Range reports suggest they are more reliable than regular nipples, but I've never tested them. I can say that Treso brand nipples produce a hotter and more reliable spark at the powder than regular nipples, and they last much longer.
Types of bullets - ball, conical, sabot, minnie balls, max-balls....etc?
What are the various types and does each type have a specific usage? Are conical/sabot's more accurate than balls?
This one could take a book.
Round balls: traditional projectile, reliable, predictable easy to use. superior accuracy over conicals/sabots in slow twist barrels. Excellent penetration, poor expansion. Require patching in rifles and single shot pistols.
Minie Balls: Bullet shaped ('conical') projectile used in Civil War. Effective if loaded properly but hard to load and keep straight. Patch often required, depends on design of the base. Some modern versions have expanding bases that do not require patches. Generally superior to round balls in fast twist barrels.
Sabot rounds: Also conical in shape, usually undersize wrt bore. Used with plastic sabot which engages the rifling to impart spin.
The above is a very rudimentary treatment of a complex subject. No good generalizations can be made as powder load, rifling, rate of twist and many other factors determine which is best for any given application. The good news is you get to do a lot of shooting at paper to figure out what's best for your gun.
For conical bullets, how can you determine the weigh without weighting? Do the different colors mean anything?
I have some hollowpoint conicals which have green bottoms.
There is no color code for weight except perhaps within a given manufacturer. Best bet: weigh them.