Range Report, .58 cal smooth bore TC Trapper.

What’s the alloy?
Good question, I have lots of ingots of hard lead, which all vary greatly as to alloy. Much of it began as wheel weights, but as time went on it got mixed with other mystery scrap. This batch I used is possibly contaminated with stuff that should not be in a lead alloy, and does not cast well, has other weird "attributes", so I thought I'd use some of it up. Was/is my "junk lead", that I normally would not use. I did add some pure lead to it and that actually helped it a bit. Before I did that, the dross coming off the top was just weird. When the ingot cooled back down it was more normal too. Usually it cools all lumpy on top. !! Anyhow, it cast just fine, first pour into my old Dixie cast iron .570" ball mold made a keeper. Those old ones with no sprue cutter.
 
Very useful indeed. A 520 grain .45 caliber bullet pushed by 120 grains of 1.5f Swiss will dissuade the most insistent Grizzly. The recoil isn’t as bad as you might think.
Well...it was pretty bad. !!! :) But for sure, if you can't stop Grizz with that load at bad-breath distance, better get more target practice.
 
I would go with a single hard ball with a heavy powder charge but remember hard lead doesn't shrink as much when it cools as soft lead does so your balls will come out bigger. Is there any reason to use "chewed" balls?
The .570" when chewed, just fits the bore better. Kind of has that perfect fit. Some say chewed balls are more accurate, but it is quite a debate. In my Bess, they do seem to be more accurate, but I don't shoot it enough to prove it.
 
Very useful indeed. A 520 grain .45 caliber bullet pushed by 120 grains of 1.5f Swiss will dissuade the most insistent Grizzly. The recoil isn’t as bad as you might think.
It is a big old nasty long heavy slug, I have a mold for it. But, never really have been able to get any accuracy out of it. I think it weighs more like 550 or 560 grains.
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I have no idea what he means by "chewed" either. I wonder if it's kinda the same idea as a rifled slugs
You have not heard of chewed balls???!!! These days, it refers to a ball you work over with two rasps, put the ball between them and roll away, it makes dimples and spikes and is supposed to make them fly straighter out of a smooth bore. But that...is a huge debate.

Supposedly, "back in the day", in the olden days, it's been said that dudes actually chewed them to get the same effect, having no idea of the effect of lead poisening. I have no idea if that is true or not. No one actually chews them now (I hope) but that's where the term comes from.

All the modern tests I have seen only seem to indicate that it might work, but the difference is small, and the difference between barrels, loads, patches, size of ball, etc. etc. have as much difference as any difference the difference makes.

I sometimes use chewed ball as it increases the diameter a little bit, and makes for a cheap way to try a slightly bigger ball, without buying a new mold or a bag of commercial balls.

In this .580" smoothbore I'm playing with right now, the chewed .570's fit the bore a little better when shooting bare-ball. And at the moment, the bare chewed .570"s are more accurate than a patched unchewed .570" ball over the same powder charge.

Hope that helps, I thought everyone and their sister's brother's cousin's was arguing about chewed balls. Where was you?? :neener: ;)
 
You have not heard of chewed balls???!!! These days, it refers to a ball you work over with two rasps, put the ball between them and roll away, it makes dimples and spikes and is supposed to make them fly straighter out of a smooth bore. But that...is a huge debate.

Supposedly, "back in the day", in the olden days, it's been said that dudes actually chewed them to get the same effect, having no idea of the effect of lead poisening. I have no idea if that is true or not. No one actually chews them now (I hope) but that's where the term comes from.

All the modern tests I have seen only seem to indicate that it might work, but the difference is small, and the difference between barrels, loads, patches, size of ball, etc. etc. have as much difference as any difference the difference makes.

I sometimes use chewed ball as it increases the diameter a little bit, and makes for a cheap way to try a slightly bigger ball, without buying a new mold or a bag of commercial balls.

In this .580" smoothbore I'm playing with right now, the chewed .570's fit the bore a little better when shooting bare-ball. And at the moment, the bare chewed .570"s are more accurate than a patched unchewed .570" ball over the same powder charge.

Hope that helps, I thought everyone and their sister's brother's cousin's was arguing about chewed balls. Where was you?? :neener: ;)
Way I see it. What you said confirmed what I already thought in that it is akin to rifled slugs for smoothbore shotguns although the idea of the rifled slugs is creating the spiral effect like a well thrown football. This chewed up ball in my mind makes some sense I guess but for a different reason. I reckon the idea is that you are creating places on the ball that might gently kiss the inside of the bore. In doing so they right them self on there way to the muzzle, as their contact with bore was the result of drifting off course. If contact between the bore and ball at one point causes over correction then the idea is that another chewed up point will make contact and right the course hopefully
 
Way I see it. What you said confirmed what I already thought in that it is akin to rifled slugs for smoothbore shotguns although the idea of the rifled slugs is creating the spiral effect like a well thrown football. This chewed up ball in my mind makes some sense I guess but for a different reason. I reckon the idea is that you are creating places on the ball that might gently kiss the inside of the bore. In doing so they right them self on there way to the muzzle, as their contact with bore was the result of drifting off course. If contact between the bore and ball at one point causes over correction then the idea is that another chewed up point will make contact and right the course hopefully
Yes that too. Eloquently put. There is also the claim of an effect much like the dimples on a golf ball, when the ball is in flight. In my case, shooting the ball with out a patch, bare-ball, yes, I think it centers the ball in the bore better. At the same time, the rough surface has some give to it, so it's less likely to get stuck going down a fouled bore. Oh well, makes sense to me anyways. :) that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
Nice! I bet it cuts clean holes in the paper. At least it shows exactly how bad it’s flying…
I'm thinking it would cut a clean hole in grizzly hide, fat, muscle and bone too. Due to it's length it takes that heavy charge to keep it stabilized. I shot a couple out of my 1861 Springfield not too long ago, over 90 grains, and they did tumble at 100 yards. The diameter is just right, they are a perfect fit in a .580" bore. Not loosie goosie like most min-yay slugs/balls. Anything heavier than a 100 grain charge, regardless of ball, bullet or slug, starts kicking the hammer back to half cock on my '61, so she ain't going to shoot it.
 
Yes that too. Eloquently put. There is also the claim of an effect much like the dimples on a golf ball, when the ball is in flight. In my case, shooting the ball with out a patch, bare-ball, yes, I think it centers the ball in the bore better. At the same time, the rough surface has some give to it, so it's less likely to get stuck going down a fouled bore. Oh well, makes sense to me anyways. :) that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Idk a thang in the world about golf. I figured the dimples just made the ball sit on the tee better. Either way you got pretty good results out of the super duper double ball grizzly special
 
Me neither. I like to play with guns, bows and arrows, motorcycles, fast cars, old cars, spears and knives. :)
Guns yes bows And arrows yes fast cars... not for me I like old trucks if it ain't got a bed on it and it was made after the 1990's I ain't driving it. Motorcycles... I've always wanted one and I make my living in warehouse full of motorcycle stuff but I've yet to get one. Next thing in line after I fix the furnace and tile the shower
 
Guns yes bows And arrows yes fast cars... not for me I like old trucks if it ain't got a bed on it and it was made after the 1990's I ain't driving it. Motorcycles... I've always wanted one and I make my living in warehouse full of motorcycle stuff but I've yet to get one. Next thing in line after I fix the furnace and tile the shower
Here's a truck for ya. "Big Moe". There ain't no where, Big Moe can't go. :)
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Guns yes bows And arrows yes fast cars... not for me I like old trucks if it ain't got a bed on it and it was made after the 1990's I ain't driving it. Motorcycles... I've always wanted one and I make my living in warehouse full of motorcycle stuff but I've yet to get one. Next thing in line after I fix the furnace and tile the shower
Do not tell me you work in Maggie Valley!?
 
Alrighty then....did some shooting today with the Little Beast, just concentrated on the "chewed bare-ball" load. I set up at 35 yards.
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That load being a little over 100 grains 2fg Swiss, wax wad over the powder, then a non-lubed wool wad over that, to keep the wax wad from sticking to the ball. Wads sticking to the ball destroys accuracy...don't ask me how I know that. Then the ball, which I lube well, and then another wax wad over that to hold the ball in. I stack the load in the muzzle, then send it home all at once. Picture of the chewed hard balls, for those who are not familiar with chewing (rasping) round ball.
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Quite satisfied with results. The top hole, in the top plate, was a patched hard ball (non-chewed) already loaded in the bore. I was curious as to how a thinly patched hard ball would go down. Them hard balls have no give to them. Patching them is not an option, unless one wants to risk getting one stuck in the barrel on the side of some mountain. It went down the clean barrel fine, but I can tell it might be a problem in a fouled bore. They just don't have the "give" that a soft, pure lead ball has.

Moving to the bottom target, I fired three shots, with the chewed bare ball and load described above. Previous testing told me that the chewed bare balls were more accurate than a patched ball, in this gun. As you know, the patched double .530" ball load had mixed results, but I'm not going to work with that, as all things considered, and as suggested, the single .570" ball should penetrate deeper. Anyhow, since it was obviously grouping I was happy with the three shot group.

I then moved back to 50 yards, and popped off one more, and that's the lower hole in the top target. I'm thinking 50 yards is max range, with 30 and closer being ideal. But in a starvation situation, I'd chance a 50-60 yard shot at a deer.

However, considering the "mission" or purpose of this gun, she's good. The Little Beast is strictly a trekking, exploring and survival self defense gun in the deep wilderness infested with critters that will (or can) bite, scratch, eat or kill me. Anything over 25-30 yards I don't consider a threat. If something is a threat, hopefully I'll keep my cool and wait until I can just about smell it's breath. I mean, I only get one shot. The closer it gets, the harder to miss. :) My butt has been in the fire a few times in this life, and I kept my cool every time. So I'm not too worried about that. !!

The other purpose of the smoothbore is to be able to shoot small game, grouse, rabbits or squirrels when I'm starving to death after busting a leg or ankle. !!! That is also the beauty of the bare-ball, it's a very easy load to pull, and then throw some shot down the barrel, another wad, and SHAZAM! Shotgun!! Of course, that's when Grizz shows up.

The old TC is proving quite reliable too. I originally had my doubts, knowing of the contorted TC flash channel. But now I'm thinking, and it seems to be, that if you get that breech flushed out real good when you clean it, and prep the rifle properly before loading it, she'll fire every time. yeah yeah you guys know that.

Okay, looking forward to taking her up North when the snow melts. I've had it on a few walkabouts on the state land, and it's a very comfortable carbine to carry, good balance, light, just feels good to carry. Feels fast and "handy".

The Little Beast says: "thanks for listening".
 
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Motorcycle? Motorcycle? Did someone say motorcycle?????
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A motorcycle, and a feather weight little 20 gauge made especially to carry on said motorcycle.
At my work we sell a hard case for long guns that bolts onto an ATV ment for quick easy access. I'd like to figure out something like your set up for an old Enduro of some kind
 
How would one go about this with a rifle? .50 caliber
From everything I know about chewed ball, they just don't seem to work in a rifle. How well they work, or don't work in a smoothbore will always be an open debate. In my experience, with my smoothbores, my loads/patching/ball sizes, and in my limited testing, I think there is some truth to a chewed ball flying a little straighter. But there are so many variables that it is a hard thing to prove or dis-prove. I'm on the side of "it can" produce a tighter group. Depending on a million different variables.

I would not spend (waste?) the powder and lead to try it in a rifle. The only reason I can think of to do so would be with a very undersized ball, if that's all one had. Chewing (rasping) the ball does increase it's diameter a little, it will almost take it to the next size up. (.570" to .575" for instance) (it takes my .570's to exactly .575")
 
At my work we sell a hard case for long guns that bolts onto an ATV ment for quick easy access. I'd like to figure out something like your set up for an old Enduro of some kind
I have not found a good home-made way to attach a scabbard to any of my dirt/trail bikes. What works for me is to strap the rifle or shotgun, with the sling, across my front rather than my back. Of course if I take a spill, the long gun is going to take a beating. Very scary when I carry my Jeager like that. Of course then I go slowly, and don't do any hill climbing or anything like that!!! But yes, mounting one of those big hard cases on a bike would be/is problematic.
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The Jeager and the Trail 90.
 
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