Range Report: Great West Gunsmithing Mini14

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ratseal

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Jul 3, 2006
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Finally had a comprehensive range day with my recently tuned Ranch Rifle, warmed up courtesy of Great West Gunsmithing. The work that was performed was the Package 3, plus a rail:

  • Trigger job
  • Shorten and recrown the barrel, reattach the front sight
  • Recoil buffer and gas port bushing
  • Polish and adjust the gas block
  • Duracoat (matt black)
  • Smith brake
  • Ultimak rail
  • Hogue Overmold (my addition)

Ammunition: I was shooting both SS109 55gr and Wolf 62gr.

The rifle is a Series 186-xxxxx, with a 1:7 barrel, favoring heavier bullets and started life as a stainless model in the factory softwood stock.

The work was completed quickly, and the rifle beat my newly ordered Aimpoint home. As soon as my CompM2 arrived, I slapped it on and headed out. Of course, step one was dialing in my iron sights, and I experienced a little problem when I tried to establish zero. As I tried to adjust the strike of the bullet downwards (it printed 4" high at 25yd), I reached the limit of how far the rear sight could be adjusted for range. I am going to readdress this, but the short version is that I need to hold about 2 inches low with iron sights. I don’t know if this is an artifact of the barrel shortening and subsequent front sight repositioning or something else.

Nonplussed, I replaced the Aimpoint and zero’d the scope. The scope performed well, and I was able to enjoy the improvements to the rifle. The trigger was vastly improved, and the brass no longer ejected 15 feet forward! Instead, the brass pile ended up about 3 feet from me. The rifle functioned flawlessly, even after a heavy session with dirty ammunition. I was shooting from a rest for zero, but after the rifle was zeroed, I shot offhand, and appreciate the quicker handling that resulted from the shortened barrel.

Accuracy: this is the kicker. Prior to GunDoc’s efforts, the rifle printed at 4-4.5” (CTC) at a 100yds, with the occasional flyer out to 6”. Yesterday, from the 25yd line and with a cold barrel I put 3 rounds into a single ragged hole. At 100yd, I achieved two 1.5” groups, and that is with a red dot, milsurp ammo and a non bedded stock. Even the worst groups, including flyers, averaged 2.5MOA”! With a scope of modest power (the Leupold scout, forex), a bedded action and higher quality ammunition, this rifle could easily flirt with the 1MOA mark, from a bench.

Fit and finish of the work is excellent and the DuraCoat was cosmetically flawless. I did perform a bore check prior to shooting and found a little piece of tape hiding just inside the barrel, but no drama. The improvement in the trigger has to be experienced to be believed. The email communication from GunDoc was clear, quick and frequent, keeping me assured that all was well (this is the first mail order smithing that I have purchased).

If I had to do anything differently, I would have added the extended mag release to the package, and perhaps replaced my iron sights with an aftermarket set.

I heartily endorse GWS and the GunDoc!

Pics later! Crossposted to the Perfect Union BBS and LJ *Guns*.
 
GWS Mini14 pics

As promised.
 

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Bought the rifle @ 1992ish for approximately $500. The smithing, including the duracoat and the Ultimak was @ $500. The Aimpoint was about $300. The red dot is a wash, as far as rifle to rifle comparisons are concerned.

OTOH, a new Ruger costs between $750-850, and shoots poorly, compared to my Mini.

I am in CA, so my first choice, building a midrange AR, isn't an option unless I want a neutered, overpriced AR ($750 and up for a 10 round AR). So, roughly a grand later I have a nice $500-$600 rifle. Of course, the first $500 was a sunk cost. My recent net out of pocket is less than the CA legal AR.

After I leave CA I will have more options. :banghead:
 
Hmm. I am of mixed opinions here. Don't get me wrong, I think your gun is bitchin', and it sounds like your happy with it, which is the most important thing. My mixed opinions arise when I consider the conversion for myself.

First, My mini was a gift to me, and so I don't have anything into it. I have done some cosmetic upgrades (new stock, compensator) which cost me some money, but thats pretty much it. I guess my biggest problem is that I don't know if spending $500.00 is really worthwhile for a gun that for all intents and purposes takes a backseat to my AR.

On the flip side, I really like the mini design, and I think it is a pretty darn fun gun to shoot. I can say the same thing for the AR, but the reality is that I just think the Mini is neat, and thats all there is too it.

Of course, I also now have the option of the factory target Mini, which I am very much interested in. I need to handle one in person, but I maybe that $500.00 could go towards that too...

In any case, you have a neat gun, and I have a moral quandry.
 
your gun looks nice, I love the rail.

mine is stock with a leupold 3-9x40mm.......
i ve brought mine out to 200yds it shoot groups(5rnds) the size of a tennis ball (3").
 
Being that you are where you are I can see that is one of the few choices that are open to you, Good job!
 
Grats.

Knowing that you live in California, I applaud you spending the coin to make the Mini a decent rifle. If you lived anywhere else, however... we would be talking smack
 
ratseal, if you are testing accuracy, try some 10rd groups or at least 5rds. Three round groups don't really give enough data to make for a good comparison. (See this thread for more detail).

However, it sounds like your Mini may be very accurate. Even my Lilja barrel that is sub-MOA with match ammo is typically 3" at 100yds with milsurp. So it sounds like there is some potential there.
 
I wish mine would shoot that well. Since I don't live in California I have no incentive to dish out a grand to make a $350 rifle shoot that well. Is there some kind of compromise solution?
 
Yeah, its that CA thing...

... never would have spent the $ on the Mini if I wasn't in this state for the next few years. I probably would have (a ) sold it and used the money towards an AR, or (b ) spent less $ on a barrel tensioner and tried stoning the bearing surfaces in the trigger group myself.

Thanks for the positive feedback. The next step is to head to the outdoor range and shoot at 200 yards, and also do some more offhand work, including shoot and move with barricades.

Bartholomew Roberts, I will take your advice and shoot some longer strings. Since I still have a skinny barrel, I think that I will want to wait a little while in between shots to reduce the vertical stringing that I expect as the barrel heats up. What interval in between rounds do you recommend on a 5 - 10 shot string?
 
Man, that makes me wish I hadn't dumped my Mini-14 so many years ago - nice looking rifle you have there ratseal - very sweet. I have heard of another accurizing system which involved adjustable gas block, though I have not read any reviews on it. Also, invest in some match ammo - at least a few boxes. Would be nice to see what this puppy can do. I know the CA/AR thing, but I think it was dough well rolled....
 
Well, the first thing I would try is match ammo. I doubt you'll get much better than 2.5MOA out of the surplus. Also, if you are going for tiny groups, the process of re-acquiring the target and getting the exact same site picture you had before should slow you down enough to keep heat from building up too badly.

I would try just shooting it at your own natural pace first and if you notice stringing, then I would worry about slowing it down. Perhaps try a 3 or 5 shot string (whatever has worked in the past) and then let it sit for two minutes.
 
Bartholomew Roberts, thanks. I will give it a try. This isn't precision turn bolt, but is intended to let me compete in some of the (sharply) curtailed three gun matches around here. I will be content with being to place the rounds on silhouette targets or 10" metal plates at 200yd. I will look for some higher quality 62gr rounds.

However, my face is red. A sharp eyed poster on Perfect Union noted that the Smith brake looked funny. Sure enough, it's mounted wrong (90 degrees off). Got to get that addressed. Already wrote back to GWS.

http://www.smithenterprise.com/products07.html
 
Nice rifle! A perfect project for an older mini. I hope no one is paying the 750 to 850 for a newer mini like you mentioned. I paid around 550 last year for a new 580 series mini that shoots to around 2.5 inches at 100 yards. Although it is not as cool as yours, I am happy with it.
 
In keeping with the high quality comms from GWS, GunDoc already replied to my inquiry re: the muzzle brake is we are pondering a fix.

And this is on a weekend. Kudos.

Also, I was corrected over on the Perfect Union. This rifle began its life as a standard, vice ranch, model.

Lastly, here is a Gunbroker.com example of the Ruger Mini 14 Target Model price. It has a buy it now for $995.
http://gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=75662422

There are a cpl others at the $750 mark.
 
I also had my mini worked on by GunDoc/Great West Gunsmithing, so I have a few comments. My gun had everything mentioned above, plus glass bedding the stock. Also, I'm using a Burris 2-7x handgun scope on my Ultimak rail.

Comments... the $500 that ratseal mentioned I believe included the Ultimak rail (about $130?) and a coating refinish (about $100? I don't recall the exact $$ breakdown). My point is that if all you want to do is "accurize" your rifle, you can spend about $250 and have it vastly improved.

I don't live in California, I just did mine because I wanted to. I had an older Mini-14 (also a 186 series) that I had for years and had sort of grown bored with and stopped shooting. I could have bought a new gun, but decided to put the money into "recycling" this one, and I have no regrets -- it was worth every penny. I was sort of itching for a unique gun, and a 'scout scope' set up.

As far as the accuracy goes, I've also consistently shot 1.25"-1.5" groups from a bench. As a reference, that's the exact same groups I'll get with my RRA AR-15 with a 20" bull barrel -- point being that its the milsurp ammo and me that are the weak links, not the AR or the Mini in this case, and that the Mini is impressively keeping up with a very accurate AR.

John (the GunDoc) is a great guy, a great gunsmith, and an ethical person who is very easy to work with. He's worked on a half dozen of my rifles and a couple of my handguns. For a while there I was lucky enough to live about 35 minutes away from his shop, and I'd take guns down there very chance I got.
 
My Road, your price estime is dead on. For $250 you can get the basics done, skipping the rail and the coating. I just wanted a little gun pr0n. Ah, vanity.

However, the scout rail has already sold me. Worth every penny, for this type of application.

I still intend to get some AR's, first chance I get.

And a higher end turnbolt.

And a 1911 with a rail.

And...
 
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