RCBS seating die set up for 44 mag without crimp?

[p5200]

I found two sets of instructions, one says screw seating die in til it touches sized/primed and powdered case then, back out 1/8th turn but no more then tighten lock nut. The other instructions are the same except, it says back out lock nut 1 full turn? Is the full turn only needed if you also, use the die for crimping? Thanks!

 

[Walkalong]

The screw it back out 1 full turn is for no crimping while seating, and you'll need to crimp in a separate step. So is the 1/8 turn, but it's cutting it close.

If you want to seat only with that die and crimp in a second step I would just back it up off the case 1/2 or 3/4 turn and call it good. 1/8 would likely be plenty, unless your case length varies a lot and you used a short case to set the die, 1/2 should be fine, but 3/4 will be sure to work.

1 full turn isn't needed, but won't hurt anything if the seater stem doesn't run out of adjustment, which it probably won't.

If you trim revolver cases like I do, 1/8 would be fine, but why cut it closer than needed.

 

[FROGO207]

As you can see it all depends who you are talking to. I tend to unscrew it at least turn just to make sure. But that's me. At the end of the day as long as you get your desired results with no problems call it done.

 

[buck460XVR]

I just read the instructions RCBS gives online for adjusting the seating/crimping die and even tho I have used the same dies for 15 years, those instructions not only confuse me, but do not give any hint on how to adjust the seating plug. The idea behind backing off the die so it does not touch the case shoulders has to do so you do not accidentally crimp or crush the case when seating the bullet. The phase

Generally speaking, a properly seated bullet should be level with the lower end of the case neck

makes absolutely no sense to me. When determining seating depth, I back the plug way off, after adjusting the seating die so it does not crimp I then run the case with the bullet in the case mouth into the press, adjusting the seating plug until I get the cannelure or the OAL where I want it. Then if I'm going to crimp when seating, I will do what is told in the second part(B) of those instructions. If I am going to do seating and crimping separate with the three die set, I back the seating plug off three or four turns and then adjust the seating die for proper crimp.

Here's a better set of instructions.......https://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm

 

[fguffey]

I use a very unpopular method/technique; I use a transfer. the transfer reduces the number of tools required to seat a bullet off the lands.

But that is not what others are trying to accomplish when seating and crimping bullets; I do not know of any way to seat a bullet correctly but to start by seating bullets to the correct height/length etc. I suggest the reloader start by backing the die off the shell holder to prevent crimping. After backing the die off I suggest the reloader seat the bullet to the correct height. Once the bullet is seated to the correct height I suggest the reloader back the seater plug put and away from the bullet.

After backing the seating plug off I suggest the reloader adjust the seating die down to crimp; and then there is 'how much', when crimping I have never found it necessary to place more than a hint of crimp to hold the bullet.

The seating die does not have case body support; many years ago Lyman and Dillon said crimping can be a bad habit. In an effort to increase bullet hold the reloader believes it only requires more crimp to increase bullet hold. Increasing the amount of crimp can reduce bullet hold. In my opinion it is not necessary to crimp bottle neck cases. Straight wall cases require crimping, for me the crimp only requires a hint of a crimp.

After adjusting the seating die to crimp the seating plug should be lowered to the bullet if the reloader wants to seat and crimp at the same time.

Dillon believes it is a bad habit to seat and crimp at the same time. I have 2 4 position presses. I will not load on a progressive press without a lock out die. That makes if difficult to seat and crimp on different positions.

F. Guffey

 

[mdi]

When I started reloading I used Lee dies and part of the instructions stated a specific amount of "turn", like "1/2 turn for a roll crimp". That lasted about a month and I adjusted my dies by by backing off "some" and lowering for amount of crimp by visually checking. I haven't counted turns in 30 years...

 

[Walkalong]

That lasted about a month and I adjusted my dies by by backing off "some" and lowering for amount of crimp by visually checking. I haven't counted turns in 30 years...

Amen to that.

 

[buck460XVR]

I wonder why RCBS has changed their directions?I still have the sheets that came with my dies and they are much clearer as how to set up bullet seating and crimp.

 

[fguffey]

I wonder why RCBS has changed their directions?

RCBS has not and or did not changed the directions.

F. Guffey

 

[buck460XVR]

RCBS has not and or did not changed the directions.

F. Guffey

I have to disagree. The directions I Googled are what the OP stated and are probably where he got the directions. The directions pamphlet I have upstairs in the drawer of my reloading bench, that came with my older RCBS dies, are completely different as to how to set up the seating/crimping die of a three die set for straight walled cartridges. As I said, the direction I got with my dies are much easier to understand. The OP's question has nuttin' to do with cam over or bumping any shoulder back. He is asking about setting up crimp for .44 mag.

 

[whughett]

What ever method you use and it’s all try and adjust, once you’ve achieved the proper seating and crimping adjustments take one loaded round and label it as a set up round. You’ll need one for every bullet weight and seating depth you load for.

Or invest in tool heads and dies for every load.

Just an observation but every powder I ever used for 44 Magnum called for a heavy roll grimp.