Re-barreling a Rifle - Cost and Options

[ArtP]

I shoot enought to concern myself with having to re-barrel. In the fair amount of time searching the web, all I run across for options are high end match-like barrels. These barrels typically cost $325 or so. Once gunsmithing, shipping, etc are factored in, the cost to re-barrel approaches $500. Granted, these barrels are probably far better and more accurate than factory barrels. But what to do if one is only looking for factory specs and factory accuracy? With the re-barreling cost mentioned above, it's very close to the cost of many new rifles.

Are there options and sources to re-barrel in the under $300 (out the door) price range?

 

[dmazur]

The answer to this question is to buy a Savage. Because of the barrel nut design, barrel-swapping is relatively simple compared to conventional barrel designs.

AFAIK, you can buy a Savage replacement barrel (in a chambering that agrees with your action length and bolt face), and make the swap with a barrel wrench and a headspace gauge.

As Savage makes some darn good rifles, this is a way to handle barrel swaps and avoid the cost of shipping and gunsmithing.

Because of the labor involved in installing a short-chambered barrel, finish reaming, and possible rebluing (to handle the tool marks), I don't think there is a low-cost solution for conventional barrels.

 

[9mmepiphany]

just to add to what dmazur has posted...because many folks like to take advantage of the Savage's ability to switch barrels, there are many factory barrels available which can be obtained at a very reasonable cost.

get a barrel wrench and head space gauge and you're ready to change barrels for just the cost of a barrel and postage...i seem to remember factory barrels for <$100

 

[benzy2]

Midwayusa sells barrel blanks for $80. I know FFLs get a dealer price from them as well. If you have your gunsmith order the barrel he can probably get it for $60 or so. Then add on the cost of fitting the barrel to your rifle. You still end up spending a solid $300 or so as I don't know many people that will chamber, thread, and crown a barrel for less than $250. Then the question becomes, is a match barrel worth $200 more than a factory barrel?

As has been stated, the Savage line allows for easy barrel swapping. Assuming the round fits in the action length you are swapping to, you need the new barrel, a special wrench, a go gage, maybe a new internal box magazine, and maybe a new bolt head. From there you can install precut barrels yourself. There are match grade barrels available under $400 and the factory take off barrels sell from $50-$150, depending on contour and caliber. If you switch to the same chambering, you can reuse the box magazine and if the case head is the same diameter you can reuse the bolt head.

For the user who plans to swap barrels on a factory rifle, the Savage is tough to beat. If all you want is factory accuracy in a non-Savage rifle, look at Adams & Bennett blanks.

 

[Jim Watson]

An E.R. Shaw stainless barrel is $225, $75 to install.

 

[benzy2]

Is that for the blank or for a finished barrel? What does install include? Screwing the barrel on or are you getting threading and chambering as well? Who is doing the work?

 

[ArtP]

Coincidently I have been leaning heavily toward a Savage w/ accustock and accutrigger as my next tack driver.

Thanks for all the advice. I'm not sure what to do with the Sako (2 MOA with handloads) that currently needs re-barreling or the Tikka that will need it in the future. The Sako seems worth it, but not the Tikka. I have half a mind to sell the Sako and buy a Savage - that sounds laughable to those who respect beauty over accuracy.

 

[CraigC]

The blank is not the expensive part, it's the labor to turn it down, contour it, thread it, install it and chamber it. So with all that in mind, you're FAR better off to use a high quality blank than the cheapest you can find. The end result will be much better.

 

[Fat_46]

Northlander over on Savage Shooters also has the "Rem-Age". It takes the Savage barrel nut concept and applies it to the Remington 700 line. Currently he has McGowen making "Rem-Age" barrels for him, and sells the barrel nut himself.

 

[USSR]

Regarding going the non-Savage route. Installing a cheap barrel and not truing the action is, IMHO, being penny wise and pound foolish. Having a quality barrel installed and truing the action will run you about $650.

Don

 

[wlewisiii]

The Marlin X[L,S]7 uses the same breeching system as does Savage. McGowan's sells barrels already and any of those making Savage barrels can do likewise just as easily.

Also do not forget how simple it is to change a barrel on a Mauser action as well. Barrels are available from $80 and up to the stratosphere.

William

 

[kludge]

I'm having McGowen build 2 barrles in a wildcat caliber, using my reamer, and install them on our actions for <$300 each. One blue, one stainless.

 

[hardluk1]

artap Tell what caliber you shoot and FPS along with bullet type. If shooting a 223 or 308 chances are you will not wear out that barrel in 5000 rounds and the barrel is coppered up. If a small bore mag that is a different story and you can get some errosion but the guns can still shot better than most of can shoot.

 

[Wickens]

If you have a local gunsmith that does much rebarreling and chambering, He will most likey have a barrel full of new factory barrels that he's removed from actions. Depending on what you need this can be a good way to get your rifle up and running again--fairly cheap. Selling a Sako for a savage so you can change barrels easly? no comment. There is more to it than just beauty.

 

[Strongbad]

The new Shilen actions actually use a Savage'esque barrel nut system.

Assuming that you don't have a Savage platform I'll add the following -

If you could find a gunsmith that would install a barrel for you for $75, I'd jump all over it. Of course, I'd also be asking why it's so cheap. I just priced a barrel job for a project I'm kicking off next month and for a Lilja barrel installed, I'll be looking at roughly $700. That includes squaring and truing the action, threading the barrel, chambering, etc.

That of course is starting with a top quality barrel like a Lilja. Starting with a Douglas would get you done $100 cheaper just because the barrel is cheaper. Going with a barrel from douglas that is already prethreaded and chambered might get you off even cheaper but I bet you're still looking at nearly $400. Even on a relatively inexpensive gun though, that's still liable to be worth the price considering what you get.

Just a though.

 

[benzy2]

I have to be honest, while I really like Savage rifles, as well as the ability to switch barrels easily, don't sell the Sako to fund a Savage. Rebarreling is a cost of shooting, no different than brass, bullets, or powder. Think how much you spent on the rifle. Think how much you spent on ammo (even handloads) to wear out that barrel. Now, does $500-$700 sound so bad for a quality new barrel? Yeah it isn't cheap, but it isn't as bad as you may think when you consider how much you have spent getting to rebarrel. I never did hear what chambering you were using. If you do swap and dislike the price, I suggest you look at options that burn barrels slower than the last chambering. Run at mid loads, and watch how much longer that barrel lasts. Keep the 2 MOA barrel for a hunter. 2 MOA will work quite well on many animals.

 

[ricehombre]

A Sako with a scratched stock and worn barrel has a lot more going for it than a new Savage. There is a lot of reasons it could quit grouping other than the barrel, but even if it is the barrel you can build a first class rifle on that action. Of course there are a lot of shops that would love to beat you out of it and watch you walk away with a Savage instead. Good luck.

 

[ArtP]

A Sako with a scratched stock and worn barrel has a lot more going for it than a new Savage. There is a lot of reasons it could quit grouping other than the barrel, but even if it is the barrel you can build a first class rifle on that action. Of course there are a lot of shops that would love to beat you out of it and watch you walk away with a Savage instead. Good luck.

I think you're right. The appeal is knowing I could basically trade it for a new, accurate Savage, without costing anything.

 

[Wickens]

And your new savage-may or maynot be --very accurate. What is the model of your sako and what is it chambered for? The action alone might be worth more than a new savage.

 

[ArtP]

It's a Hunter AV - L61R in .270 made in the late 80's.

I bought it used, on consignment, so I don't know the history except supposedly the owner picked up a domestic and had to sell his guns.

It's got a funny wear pattern to it that I can't figure out. The trigger guard and floorplate are pretty heavily worn, good form but 50% of the blueing is worn off. The rest of the metal, except the bolt handle, has close to 100% of the blueing remaining. I can't figure out what sort of container or use would cause that very uneven wear. The wood stock is in very good condition. And even though it shoots between 1.5 - 2.5 MOA the barrel appears bright and sharp. Those MOA figures are from a solid bench with a variety of handloads meant to hone in on an accuracy load.

I picked it up for $600. When I saw the scope was a Leupold Vari-X III 3.5-10x40, I could hardly contain myself and had a hard time making the $600 offer, with a straight face, from the $685 asking price.

When I first got it, I pegged the value at $700+$300 for the scope. I've since come off of that and think $450+$300. Those are values I think I could reasonably get if I were to gunbroker it as an individual. What do you think it's worth?

 

[kludge]

And your new savage-may or maynot be --very accurate. What is the model of your sako and what is it chambered for? The action alone might be worth more than a new savage.

And even though it shoots between 1.5 - 2.5 MOA the barrel appears bright and sharp. Those MOA figures are from a solid bench with a variety of handloads meant to hone in on an accuracy load.

I picked it up for $600. When I saw the scope was a Leupold Vari-X III 3.5-10x40, I could hardly contain myself and had a hard time making the $600 offer, with a straight face, from the $685 asking price.

Keep the scope, trade the rifle on a new Savage and cut your groups in half.

Otherwise if this is a hunting gun 1.5 to 2.5 MOA is probably good enough. The .270 isn't going to win any accuracy contests, but I expect more than that from my rifles - especially after working up a load. Have a professional scope the chamber/throat/barrel. If it looks good, then the rifle is what it is. A rebarrel may help, but there might be problems with the action or stock that need attention instead/in addition, and you may spend enough to buy two Savages.

Don't get me wrong there are a bunch of accurate Sako's out there, and I'm not suggesting throwing the baby out with the bathwater, but I think at this point you need a second opinion.

 

[benzy2]

Well, I think at $600, even if it never shot better than 3 MOA, you got a good deal with a VXIII included. If you really have no attachment to the Sako and what it is, I guess getting rid of it straight up for a heavy barreled Savage isn't a terrible swap, thought try to keep the Leupold as well.

 

[dirtyjim]

the two cheapest was to rebarrel are 1 sending your rifle to er shaw, you can figure the cost from their website. 2 you can send a barrel blank and your barreled action to skaggs gunsmithing for him to install, chamber, & crown your new barrel for under $100.
you can also try i t & d for around $300 total cost.

 

[hardluk1]

ARTP Why not take some time and have the bore scoped to see what's really wrong with your rifle. Unless you load to the max and shoot 50,000 rounds plus it may not be shot out just coppered up. Both rifles being used never seem to shot like they could or should. I have an old rem. 788 from somewhere in the mid 70's and after many years of shooting and some barnes copper bullets when they were first made killed the accuracy of it. Went from a sub 1" to 3" rifle. Put it away for 15 years. Had a gun smith tell me to try to soak the barrel in kroil for a week. Put a couple condoms over the end of the barrel rubber banded tight and poured the kroil in. After a week i still had a weeks worth of nightly scrubbing to clean it up but like new and shoots as good as before. A smithly could check and clean if needed for you . Cheaper than replaceing something that may not be crap. Worth a check?? I rebarreled a ruger also that never shoot decent from the day i bought it. Love it after the rework but if you want to shot alot you will want a heavier barrel and some stock work at least. Both of your rifles tend to be great shooters but not bench rifles but should beable to shoot at 1" + or = and make good full custom rifle if wanted. Have you had a friend try to shot your rifles?

 

[OYE]

"The wood stock is in very good condition. And even though it shoots between 1.5 - 2.5 MOA the barrel appears bright and sharp. Those MOA figures are from a solid bench with a variety of handloads meant to hone in on an accuracy load."

Before discarding the barrel:
Do you have other guns you can shoot sub-inch center to center groups?
Is the action/recoil lug glass bedded and the barrel floated?
What's the trigger pull ?
How deep is the throat ( how far off the rifling are you seating the bullets) ?
What type of bullets have you tried ( boattail/ flatbase etc...) ?
Have you ever checked the groups after more than 12 fouling shots (after the bore was cleaned)?
What kind of brass are you using? ( what brand ?)
Are you neck sizing or full length sizing ?
What powder have you tried ?
Does the crown look o.k.?
Firing pin spring, does it seem o.k. ?

Lot's of questions and all are quite relevant.