Excellent!!
Re-barreling a S&W 66
- Thread starter hapidogbreath
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Riomouse911
Member
Nice! Sometimes another persons lack of concern for an item can become another persons pride and joy with a bit of effort. Hopefully this works out well for you once all is cleaned up! 
tbob38
Member
The "Lewis Lead Remover" is your friend.
OP
OP
hapidogbreath
Member
Need to get more screen for mine. haven't used it in years and the rubber is also swollen.
ChanceMcCall
Member
That was exactly what I was going to suggest. There are a number of custom gun makers that are very capable of making a better barrel for it than it had in the first place. Of course, we are talking about some money to do that.
Brownells bought them out...I just bought new screens and a few other ends, from Brownells. My box from my late 1960's set is priced at $2.75
I got to score a two times Bullseye National Champion at a local Bullseye Match. Turns out he is a multiple time PPC champion. I asked him the barrel life of his S&W 38 Special, he said he had about 600,000 rounds through it and it still shot 2"? groups at 50 yards. Most of his rounds were 148 LSWC 2.7 grains Bullseye. It was not a factory barrel, I have forgotten who made it, but that really does not matter in terms of barrel life. He did say, that in games where you had to make "major", it was not uncommon to have K frame forcing cones crack with 125 jacketed bullets.
I did ask what broke, and extractor stars and cylinder hands wore out on high mileage revolvers. Bud also had a hammer mounted firing pin break. Overall, unless you are shooting over pressure loads, doing something stupid like firing rocks down the barrel, or cleaning with steel wool, you are not going to shoot out a revolver barrel in this lifetime.
I did ask what broke, and extractor stars and cylinder hands wore out on high mileage revolvers. Bud also had a hammer mounted firing pin break. Overall, unless you are shooting over pressure loads, doing something stupid like firing rocks down the barrel, or cleaning with steel wool, you are not going to shoot out a revolver barrel in this lifetime.
Having hammers mounted firing pins break is not uncommon in high mileage revolvers. The other wear point you'll see in revolvers which have been run at speed is worn bolt notches in the cylinder...the factory refers to them as "blown notches"
Master Blaster
Member
If you want to remove all the lead using chemistry you can plug the muzzle end the the barrel and fill the barrel with 50% Hydrogen peroxide and 50% white vinegar. This is par-acetic acid use gloves if you do this and do not get any of the resulting grey scum and liquid on any skin. This solution will dissolve the remaining lead in the barrel very quickly lead acetate is the grey scum in the solution. Handle with care the par-acetic acid should only be left in the barrel for a couple minutes after wash and oil well. Do not get any in the mechanism of the revolver.
I've never been a fan of this for safety reasons - peroxide oxidizes the elemental lead in the barrel to lead oxide. Elemental lead isn't all that toxic, but lead oxide sure is. And proper disposal is becomes an issue - simply pouring a lead oxide solution down the sink and into the water supply doesn't seem a very responsible thing to do, IMO.
For lead removal, my vote is for the Lewis Lead Remover .
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