Re-tempering a tool after heating?

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I’ve been heating one jaw/tip of my long nose pliers to cherry red and placing it on a frozen screw head trying to get some Kroil/heat cycles to free it. Anyway I’d like to use the pliers afterward without them shattering or bending. Do I water quench or oil quench or do nothing? As for you who will recommend using another tool… too late. 😃
 

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Buy yourself a micro torch next time. Faster and quicker. As for re heat treating, it all depends on the alloy of the steel. Either way your likely to loose any serrations that is on the tip due to scaling. I would try oil first, but would not hold on to any hope of successful heat treating.

Edit:

Soldering irons work well to for heating up a screw in limited space.

You could have used a piece of scrap steel instead of a good pair of needle nose pliers.
 
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In the 70's made some chisels and screwdrivers. Still have them. Easy process. But never ruined a pair of needle nose on purpose. They don't cost much so read up and experiment.
 
Quick and dirty heat treat. Heat the parts you want hardened to red hot. If you really want to check it's hot enough a magnet will no longer stick to it when its hot enough.

Quench in oil. Used motor oil or even some waste cooking oil will work for this. Water quenches too fast and uneven when it creates vapor bubbles on the surface. Now the pliers will be hard to super hard, depending on how high the carbon content is. Don't drop them, especially if they are high carbon.

Now take some fine sand paper or scotch bright and shine the heat treat section so it's nice and bright and shiny. You need to get all the oxides off from the quench so you can see the next part.

After shining them up reheat slowly and evenly and watch the color change of the cleaned surface. For a pair of pliers you want to take them to a deep straw or even an orange brown color. Assuming they are a medium carbon steel (probably 4140 or similar) that will get a you a nice medium hardness (HRc 50 give or take a few points). If you know the are a high carbon steel go a little hotter and let them turn a little purple/blue. You can re-quench or let air cool once you have acheieve the color you want. Shine them up one last time and put them back to work.

If they are cheap low carbon steel then all the above is a waste as low carbon steel will not get much harder than its normalized state.

That said I have two or three pairs of pliers and several tongs that are simply my hot work pliers. I buy better one that I don't use on hot work.

-rambling
 
Quick and dirty heat treat. Heat the parts you want hardened to red hot. If you really want to check it's hot enough a magnet will no longer stick to it when its hot enough.

Quench in oil. Used motor oil or even some waste cooking oil will work for this. Water quenches too fast and uneven when it creates vapor bubbles on the surface. Now the pliers will be hard to super hard, depending on how high the carbon content is. Don't drop them, especially if they are high carbon.

Now take some fine sand paper or scotch bright and shine the heat treat section so it's nice and bright and shiny. You need to get all the oxides off from the quench so you can see the next part.

After shining them up reheat slowly and evenly and watch the color change of the cleaned surface. For a pair of pliers you want to take them to a deep straw or even an orange brown color. Assuming they are a medium carbon steel (probably 4140 or similar) that will get a you a nice medium hardness (HRc 50 give or take a few points). If you know the are a high carbon steel go a little hotter and let them turn a little purple/blue. You can re-quench or let air cool once you have acheieve the color you want. Shine them up one last time and put them back to work.

If they are cheap low carbon steel then all the above is a waste as low carbon steel will not get much harder than its normalized state.

That said I have two or three pairs of pliers and several tongs that are simply my hot work pliers. I buy better one that I don't use on hot work.

-rambling
Thank you. I wager these are not super high quality so maybe I won’t bother. If I just leave them as is after heating cherry red and letting them cool, they may be soft, is that right?
 
Thank you. I wager these are not super high quality so maybe I won’t bother. If I just leave them as is after heating cherry red and letting them cool, they may be soft, is that right?

Yeah they will be soft but they are still steel, even dead soft a medium carbon steel will be very usable for a lot of jobs. Think about a blacksmiths tongs that he uses to work red hot steel. They never bother heat treating them when they make them because any heat treat it going to get tempered way after constant heat and cool cycles holding hot steel to be forged. As pliers they will be fine, the cutters is were there performance will be hurt if you got the cutter that hot. That does need to be hardened to work well.
 
I realize its a bit after the fact, but…

For tasks like holding items to be torch-heated, welded, bench ground, etc., I buy a small variety of the 2.99 bargain bin pliers from HF or similar outlets. No need to worry about ruining a good tool when a disposable tool is on hand. ;)

Stay safe.
 
Reheat them until cherry red & quench in oil with a stirring action. It is too hard then so you need to polish up a spot on them & anneal it back to a useable hardness by heating to a straw color then let cool slowly.
 
It depends on the alloy they are made from as to what the heat treat method needs to be. With so many tools made from chinesium steel nowdays it would be more productive to save them for other abusive duties or just throw them away and purchase a well know brand to replace them. Klein comes to mind.
 
I have heated & bent several pairs very similar to yours. After years of service, I have not seen ill effects form heating.
 
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