Reassembling S&W 66 Problem...

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brockgl

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Apr 16, 2008
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Heya folks!

I bought a very nice used S&W Model 66 w/4" barrel yesterday, and I couldn't be more excited, because it was exactly what I've been looking for!

I of course examined it very well before buying it, and also when i got home. Its action was as smooth and stable as my new 686, and its cylinder lockup was even tighter.

However, this was the first used gun I have ever purchased. I usually purchase new, because I take very good care of my guns, and I like knowing how they have been treated in their lifetimes.

However, the 66 is out of production, so used is my only real option.

Nevertheless, I wanted to detail strip it and clean and oil all the lockwork and inspect the internal parts, etc... I wanted to do this before I relied on it as a carry piece.

I have detail stripped and reassembled all 3 of my S&W revolvers before, and I feel very comfortable doing so. I know the correct way to remove the side plate, and I know which parts are tricky with springs, etc... So, I wasn't worried about this one.

But something in the reassembly has me stumped!!

I get the gun completely reassembled except for the hammer block and side plate, and while in this condition the action works flawlessly. The hammer cocks smoothly, the trigger releases it perfectly, and the cylinder cycles with no problems.

However, the minute I drop in the hammer block and install the side plate the action takes on a problem.

There is a "hitch" near the very rear of the hammer cocking. This happens just before the hammer would reach its cocked position. Sometimes the hitch is so strong that the hammer will not even cock. Other times (after disassembling and reassembling again) the hitch is not enough to keep it from cocking, but enough to make it a very rough last pull at that point.

Again, once I take the sideplate and hammer block off the action functions perfectly as normal every time. It's like the hammer block is getting caught on something and dragging in its canal along the sideplate. But for the life of me I can't figure it out!

Has anyone had this problem? And if so can you lend me some advice on where to look?

I will add that this problem did not exist when I bought the gun and has only come about once I've disassembled and reassembled it. I have been very gentle with all the parts. It is very unlikely that something has been damaged or bent.

Man, I just hope someone has experienced this before... Thank you!

Brock

[Edit: I will add this-- if I install the side plate WITHOUT the hammer block the gun cycles and cocks perfectly. This leads me to believe that the trigger/hammer posts are straight. I happened to have an identical hammer block laying around and I tried it to see if there was a slight bend in mine. But both hammer blocks cause the 'hitch' so no cigar.]
 
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I am worried you might have bent the trigger stud while working the action with the sideplate removed.

The action should not be cycled with the sideplate removed. It places large, uneven stress on the left side of the mounting studs, and can bend or break them. Try removing the hammer and trigger and examine the studs to see if they are still even and square. Also check that there is no debris or burrs in the frame recesses.
 
Hmmm... definitely a good suggestion, Oro!

However, I just took it apart to give the posts a very good checking, and they all seem to be perfectly perpendicular to the side upon which they are mounted. And they are strong and appear unbent.

I will continue examining, but so far I've getting the same result.
 
I would pull the rebound slide, and have a look at the rebound slide spring.

I'm thinking something is kinked or caddywampus in that assembly.

I've done this as well. The spring looks perfect. I have even reassembled it with the spring in both directions (though I don't think it matters), but no different result. The rebound slide itself looks to be unmolested. It's posts are straight, etc... And when I cycle the gun without the side plate on the rebound slide moves straight back and forth and doesn't even try to wiggle outward like I've seen on my other Smiths.

The interior chamber of the rebound slide is clear and straight as well.
 
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Well, the problem has been resolved! It appears that the mainspring was either (just slightly) at the wrong angle or that the strain screw wasn't screwed in tight enough to give the main spring enough bow. Someone on another forum recommended that I play with the main spring as that could be the problem, so I just fiddled with it's angle and the tightness in which I had the strain screw and the problem disappeared!

I am very happy. It has been a LONG weekend of trying to fix this. But it's good to go now.
 
OK, if you were not screwing the strain screw in all the way that would certainly cause it. Keep that screw tightened all the way down - not loose at all.

Keep in mind also that when you have these open, not to work the action repeatedly. Glad you are all sorted out.
 
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