J & K frame Rossi with same problem

[graycrait]

OK, call me stupid, but that is besides the point. I picked up a pair of Rossi revolvers, a J-frame for 85.00 and a K-frame with broken hammer for 10.00. I put a DAO only hammer from Numrich in the K-frame sized DA Rossi and every time I put it back together with the hammer block in the trigger does not freely reset all the way every time. It will run in DA sometimes 6-10 times then the trigger has to be nudged forward just the least little bit so that I guess the sear clears the trigger. At least that is what I am thinking. With either the hammer block out or the side plate off the thing runs like a champ.

Oddly enough, the J-frame Rossi has the same problem. When I was working on the J-frame I couldn't figure it out so got a couple of extra hammer blocks from Numrich, as well as a rebound block - that now seems like a waste of money. Sideplate off or hammer block out the thing runs, put the hammer block in, tighten the sideplate and the J-frame's trigger won't reset, just like the K-frame.

I've been doing Miculek-like "Trigger Jobs" on S&W for years and have never run into this issue. I have a feeling there is something fundamental I am not doing right in reassembly but putting on a sideplate with a hammer block greased into its slot ain't rocket science, but it has me bamboozled. I've got the Kuhnhausen shop manual too, to no avail.

Besides the cutoff saw for these two Rossies any suggestions?

Craig Harrington
Clarksville, TN

 

[Mac's Precision]

Sounds as if you have some tolerance issues. Most likely the parts you are installing are to large in some place and creating drag on the rebound slide. You will want to use a sharpie marker or candle soot on the parts one at a time and see where the rubbing is happening. Degrease all the parts and soot / marker them. Assemble and see what touches.

If you are able to nudge the trigger and get proper reset it must not be too much contact that is causing the problem. It may be a machine mark in the hole of the hammer block or perhaps the slot in the side plate may be tight in the keyhole portion such that the pin on the rebound slide gets bound when the hammer block is supposed to float freely. The hammer block may be forcing the rebound slide against the frame pin as well.

Stick with it...you'll find the offending pinch point.

Cheers
Mac.

 

[graycrait]

Mac,

Thanks for the suggestion. I am still learning this stuff. I've been eyeballing stuff with the sideplate off and judiciously stoning a part here or there, but your degreasing and marking suggestion is practical and reasonable. I'll do it and report back in a few days.

Again, Thanks,

Craig

 

[graycrait]

Mac,

P.S. I looked at your website. I have spent some crazy money on 10/22 parts. Then there has been the squad of 1911s, got one completely disassembled one time in a box of parts I traded for. Once assembled I had a DW Pointman 9mm and half of another 9mm 1911. I've cut Glocks up just so they point like a 1911 or HKP7. I put a 17L Glock over a CCf stainless frame one time and then added Bomar sights. Heavy pistol, but it was a fun gun to fool with recoil springs. I've tinkered with quite a few different short and long guns as a kitchen table hobby. My wife was shaking her head seeing me getting frustrated with the Rossies. I figured I would get them running and see how they worked, it has taken longer than I thought. I've even started fooling around with Star BMs and even got an aluminum framed Star BKM. I like that design and trigger geometry appeals to me - easy to carry too. I've got 4 extra firing pins and enough springs to keep them running forever. Then there are the S&W 422s, love those pistols.

I hope you do well in your business.

Craig

 

[Mac's Precision]

Craig...

Best of luck with the Rossi's. Hope you iron it out. If I can be of any further help, feel free to shoot me an email or add to your post thread. I'm happy to do what I can.

Regarding your Ruger comments... YES it is very easy to spend a silly amount of money on the 10/22. The end result is quite amazing though and therefore justifies the expense...to a degree.

Few guns generate the smiles per mile as the 10/22. You can play all day for a few bucks...and they are a platform that responds very well to the VAST supply of after market parts. It is very easy to take a basic 10/22 from a pawn shop and add enough stuff to make even the most seasoned shooter smile.

Cheers
Mac.

 

[Old Fuff]

Possibly the problem is related to the fact that Rossi and S&W parts are not interchangeable, although they may look the same. One possible solution is to use Rossi parts, rather then trying to retro-fit parts from another manufacturer. While you may get S&W parts to work sometimes, I'd call that an unintended consequence.

 

[Clipper]

Refresh my memory, Fuff. Where exactly did he say he was using S&W parts?

 

[Ron James]

Just for information and correct terminology, J and K frames terms are used with Smith and Wesson's. Rossi does not have J and K frames. Just small frames and bigger frames.

 

[graycrait]

For clarity: I'm using Rossi parts in Rossi guns, I use S&W parts in S&W guns, Ruger parts in Rugers, and so on...

Craig

 

[graycrait]

P.S. for further clarity one is a M88 the other 972. the M88 is sure size similar to a J frame while the 972 parrots a K Frame pretty well. I realize parts are necessarily compatible but now that you mention it I should check to see. I know hammers and spring systems seem incompatible, but don't know about the rest of it. The general shape of the guts of the Rossi look and function like S&W. So I figure Kuhnhausen's shop manual pretty much covers the Rossi in most things.

 

[Jim K]

Check out the part of the rebound slide where it contacts the bottom of the hammer, and the hammer itself. Those areas are sometimes sharp or rough and the rebound slide hangs up trying to go forward. Too weak a rebound slide spring and/or too strong a mainspring can give the same problem. The fix can be a bit of stoning or even just a dab of lube.

Jim

 

[graycrait]

Jim,

Thanks for the tip. I looked closely at that very thing, not really knowing how to really touch up the entire juncture. Somehow when the hammer block is in and it is riding well seated within the sideplate slot, there is some pressure bind, ever so slight - IN BOTH GUNS!!!! So I lightly stoned the bottom of the hammer where it meets the rebound block on the 972, stoned the top of the rebound block lightly, hit the back and bottom just a bit and looked,felt for hang ups in the rebound block spring hole. Hit the top of the trigger where it hits the sear and chamfered the sear a hair, still get a little binding. When I get this figured out I guess I will be good enough for final line inspector at Rossi.

Craig

 

[Old Fuff]

Refresh my memory, Fuff. Where exactly did he say he was using S&W parts?

The constant use of S&W terminology left me with the impression that he was trying to fit S&W parts into a Rossi.

For clarity: I'm using Rossi parts in Rossi guns, I use S&W parts in S&W guns, Ruger parts in Rugers, and so on...

But obviously he wasn't. I apologize for my error.