Received AR upper and have a few Q's

[1911user]

I received my AR upper today and have a few questions. It is an A2 HBAR upper with a colt barrel stamped 5/95 and C MP 5.56 NATO 1/7 HBAR. The chamber looks chromed, but I don't know about the barrel? The rifling looked good; 1/7 is a fast looking twist. The muzzle has a 3 slot compensator that looks pinned in place. Here's a pic: Brake pic
Is the barrel threaded under the brake? The brake slots are at 9, 12, and 3 o'clock with a closed bottom. Is this comp loud? Can I just drill this pin out?

The upper has 0.25 inch diameter holes in both mounting holes. The only mark is a broken A by the rear sight. I'm guessing this is not a colt upper. Here's a pic: upper pic The bolt group and charging handle shows little wear and are unmarked. The bolt compartment in the carrier looks chromed. Here a pic: bolt group pic

The handguards are standard A2 black plastic. I'm thinking of replacing them with a Bushmaster free float tube (vented). Is there a good collector or value reason to leave the barrel as is?

 

[Redlg155]

This website should help you out in your answers.

http://www.biggerhammer.net/ar15/

The muzzle brake looks to be aftermarket attatched to your barrel. It may be pinned or pinned and welded/soldered. I doubt that the upper/barrel has any collector value and may be a "frankenstein" upper with parts from different manufacturers.

Good Shooting
Red

 

[1911user]

What is the best way to remove the pinned brake?

 

[NEtracker]

Sometimes it can be best to ask the detailed AR questions over here..
http://ar15.com/forums/board.html?b=3

 

[rbernie]

You should be able to tap the pin out and pull the brake off. Sometimes a spot of heat helps this along, and be aware that sometimes the pins are tapered and need to be drifted out in a specific direction (e.g. left-to-right).

 

[Jim Watson]

While you are waiting on a reply from the experts...
That looks like the Wilson AWB muzzle device, made to look like a flashhider but to function as a muzzle brake, screwed on and blind pinned to make it difficult to remove and replace with a wicked flashhider.
The pin cannot be driven out and will have to be cut out one way or another. I dunno about drilling, the pin might be harder than the body of the device. If it were mine and I just had to have it off, I'd take it to my gunsmith and he would probably put it on the milling machine.
I THINK you will find the barrel threaded underneath, the similar device for use on unthreaded barrels had multiple set screws and pins.
Why do you want to take it off anyhow?

 

[Powderman]

Why trouble yourself removing it, when for the cost and trouble you can simply replace the barrel?

The tools are relatively inexpensive, and once you learn how to, you'll be surprised how easy it is.

You can change your own barrel in about 1 hour or less. But before you do, give that upper of yours a good workout with some nice tasty 62 and 77 grain MatchKings. I'll bet that once you find a good accuracy load, you'll forget all about changing that barrel.

 

[1911user]

I'll probably end up selling this upper instead of modding it. To be quite honest, I really don't like muzzlebrakes unless they are on large caliber, heavy recoiling rifles; they are anti-social IMHO.

This was advertised as a 3 slot flash-hider and I didn't know enough to ask for better pictures or a clarification; the photos were just right/wrong enough for me to see/assume an A2 flash suppressor. I think the deal was good enough that I can resell it to get my money back instead of fighting to return it to the seller. It'll also give me something to shoot while gathering parts to assemble a better upper.

I'll try to shoot it this weekend and if the weight of the heavy barrel doesn't bother me, then I'll remove the brake and install a free float handguard with a good flash suppressor. If it's too heavy, the barrel, at a minimum, gets sold in its' present condition.

 

[rbernie]

BTW - the broken "A" casting mark is the OEM mark for Olympic Arms.