Rechambering S&W 10 to .357

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Smoothing the serrated trigger?

Hell, if I didn't want an old Model 10, I wouldn't have bought one!

There are plenty of Smiths out there with smooth triggers, some of them in the safe next to the Model 10 (which also got a new set of S&W Service grips to replace the "improved" things someone had put on it in the past).:)
I recall a magazine back in the late 70s addressed this. It reported that the K-frame Smiths all received the same heat treat, but the writers may not have taken literal measurements of some of the areas discussed here.

If you want a .357, I strongly urge you to find a nice Ruger Speed-Six or Security-Six. I found a couple of Speed-Sixes that were chambered for .38 Special and had them rechambered for .357 -- but keep in mind that these guns are overbuilt and intended for the .357 pressures. I'm not aware that S&W made any changes in its K-frame design to accommodate the .357. If it altered anything, it should have beefed up its topstrap and forcing cone, neither of which seems to have been changed.

I'd like to see how the 686 would fare in a torture test against a Security-Six or a GP-100. I know of some Security-Sixes that have surpassed 30,000 hot magnum rounds each with no parts replacements. I don't know how many a 686 could take (in spite of its being beefed up).

The GP-100 can probably go even more, but to me the extra weight isn't worth it.
Question: "Why not make all your guns with the superior metallurgy and heat treating?"

Answer: Why spend $$ when there is no need? Ford doesn't install full race packages on all its cars.

Very bad idea, because:

Every school boy knows by now the K-Frame Magnums had problems with cracked forcing cones, right?

Well, the Model 10 has a shorter cylinder and longer barrel shank then a Model 19 or 66, or other K-Frame Magnum.

That makes the forcing cone / unsupported section of the barrel shank even longer & less supported then those on the Magnum guns.
They even have way more unsupported barrel shank then a J-Frame .38 or .357.

Don't do it, because it's a bad idea, because the .38 Spl. K-Frame was not designed with Magnum length cylinders or shortened forcing cones!

Supposedly S&W tempered the 357 cylinders beyond what the 38s received. I know that many 38s were bored for 357s and were used with magnum ammo. But it is risky at best and I can't recommend it. Just buy a 357 revolver.
Ok, to everyone just tuning in:

It's already been established that this is unwise. I don't intend to pursue it further.

I appreciate the recommendation on the model 60, but I do not want a J-frame gun in .357, and would prefer a 4" barrel. I have a J-frame .38 and love it, but the trigger is nowhere near as smooth as my larger 10-7. I'm going to look for a 13 or 65, and may settle for a Speed Six.
If you plan on shooting a buttload of .357 Magnum, especially 125 grain or lighter rounds at 1450 fps+, I second Confederate's recommendation for a Ruger Security/Police Service/Speed Six. They are very nice guns, not quite as refined or smooth as a K Frame, but nice nonetheless. They are more affordable too, I bought a 4" Police Service Six a few months ago for $275.

If you'll be shooting 1100-1250 fps 158 grain Magnums sparingly, then the 13 or 65 would make a great choice as well.

Enjoy the hunt!
I plan on shooting 158 gr. loads at around 1400+ fps, and experimenting with some of the heavier 180 gr. bullets too.

I can get 1015 fps from a .38 158 +P factory load from my model 10 (according to a PACT chrono), so I don't see much point in an 1100 fps .357 load.

I want this gun as a woods/camping/trail gun, and to carry as a sidearm while hog hunting. I like the S&W better, and think it will hold up fine for my purposes, but if I come across a Ruger at a good price I might pick it up instead.
I plan on shooting 158 gr. loads at around 1400+ fps, and experimenting with some of the heavier 180 gr. bullets too.

JMO but you need to look for a S&W Highway Patrolman Model 28 if you plan on shooting the 180 grain.
Hi John Wayne,

Given your interests then...I'd say, consider a .41 Magnum.

It will satisfy the requirements, and, deliver quite beyond the usual .357 Balistically.

That's what I'd do, if it were me.

I am considering one in fact myself...but, the model I'd like ( S&W Model 58 ) is usually fairly pricey, and, I am of modest means, so...patience, and luck, maybe will win out eventually.
I actually came across a .41 Magnum the last time I was at a gun show (S&W 57). I loved the gun, and I like the cartridge based on what little I've fired it. I already reload for .38 special though, and my dies are good for .357 Magnum as well.

I have nothing against N-frame S&W's, but if I got one I'd prefer it in something larger than .357 to justify the extra weight.

The .41 Mag is on my "someday" list. For right now though, it seems like .357 offers the best compromise for my needs. I want a gun light/compact enough to carry on extended backpacking/hiking trips, occasional concealed carry, woods walking, etc. I don't actually plan on hunting with it, but it would be nice to have something handier than a rifle when walking up on a mean ol' hog that might not be dead yet.
I've been working on the action of my Ruger Security-Six, just by dry snapping it, and it's like glass. People want to know if it actuallt ever misfires it's so slick (not so far). Anyone with a Leatherman Ti Charge or similar model can make the action on a Sec/Spd-Six other tools needed.
I have a Model 65, stick with .38's for the range stuff and save the hot .357 for carry.

Heat treatment, strength is very different. You might shoot successfully it a few times, but not for long.
Find a Model 13, one of the best of the K frame .357's - simply a heavier Model 10,larger window, longer cylinder, fixed sights, nothing you don't really need.

I have had several and am looking for another...IMO, the gunfighter's gun of DA revolvers.

Now to throw a wrench in the works, S&W did make a number of Model 10s in 357, they are 10-6s and were the pre-Model 13, they have been built to S&Ws standard of heat treatment for the 357 and are technically a model 13 but are stamped 10-6.

If you are going to look at the 180gr bullets try some 180gr XTP JHP and 15grs of Lil'gun, it really thumps and shoots well in both my handguns and my 1894C Marlin. The load I really like is a 180gr RNFPGC over Lil'gun.
I have one of those 10-6 chambered in .357 by S&W that Mr Williams mentioned. There were 1200 done for the New York State Police in the early 70's. There were more made for other law enforcement agencies before S&W began the model 13. Some of these 10-6 357's were then overstamped 13-1, again, by the factory.

All these 10-6 357's were 4" heavy barrel. No pencil barrel model 10's in 357 that I am aware of. These 10-6 357's do appear on the gun auction boards fairly regularly.

An interesting thing happened when I took my 10-6 in to a local gunsmith for some work. When I showed it to him and he discovered it was marked 10-6 instead of 13, he asked me if "this one of the ones I did?" :confused: When I assured him I'd never been there before and this was a factory revolver he told me how he had "bored out the cylinders on a bunch of those model 10's and turned them into 357's for some deputies that wanted them." :what: Needless to say, but I took my 10-6 elsewhere for service.

While I'm not sure that the metalurgy is any different between a model 10 and a model 13 or 19 for that matter, the heat treatment IS different.

Perhaps you might explore the feasibility of putting a pencil barrel on a model 13. Good luck! TJ
posted by John Wayne;

I plan on shooting 158 gr. loads at around 1400+ fps, and experimenting with some of the heavier 180 gr. bullets too.

You may want to check into the reloading data. I just happened to have my Lyman manual open to the .357 page from using it to cross check some recipes off the 'net. There's no loads given that will push a 158 to 1400fps. The highest for a 158 according to the book is 1327 fps and at that it's got the highest chamber pressure at 42,900. You won't get 1400 fps out of a 158 without going past the SAAMI max spec pressure.

Now doing so may well be OK on a big solid GP100 Ruger. Or one of S&W's 27's or 28's might even do well since they are the big N frame and there's lots of metal in the cylinder what with having turned out to be OK for the .44Mag. But I don't think I'd want to be pushing past the limits on the more light and compact cylinders and frames. And the Security Six is not as heavy as the newer GP100's from what I've seen and read.
Buffalo Bore sells commercial loads with 158 gr. bullets clocking 1485 fps from a 4" barrel. In fact, they list a 180 gr. load at 1400 from 4" as well.

While I don't have load data to duplicate this offhand, if it can be done by a factory then surely it can be safely reloaded to similar specs.
Lots of things can be done by a factory that we can't duplicate by reloading.

The reason being, we cannot get the specially blended powders they use in canister grade reloading powders.

And I agree that you will not get an honest 1,400 out of a 158 in a 4" revovler at sane pressure.

I seriously doubt Buffalo Bore can either if they weren't using a minimum SAAMI spec pressure barrel with no cylinder gap.

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