recoil pad on synthetic stock

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454c

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Dec 25, 2002
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I'm wanting to replace the thin and hard as a rock recoil pad on my Traditions muzzleloader. I pulled the pad off the synthetic stock and have a couple questions before I go any further.

The mounts with the screw holes sit alittle ways below the edge of the stock.The pad is recessed to fit inside the stock.Is there an aftermarket pad that is allready recessed for this or will I have to grind away on a pad to make it work?I thought about cutting the stock down flush with the holes.Any comments on this idea?

I also noticed the stock pad had a metal plate across it.I'm guessing this is to distribute the recoil over a broader area instead of the edges of the hollow synthetic stock.Am I correct?If so,do the aftermarket pads have one or will I need to make one?
 
pad

in allot of cases adding an after market pad is getting more difficult these days,on the thin recesed type that you have,making a spacer to bridge the stock screw holes is the way to go,the new pad will not line up with the stock holes unless you get lucky.as far as i have found,recoil pads have a metal insert,there are ofcource different sizes so pick the one that you can grind on and not expose the metal in the pad.one other thing you can do is build up the space between the pad and spacer with devcon steel bed,this will give you a more evenly distributed recoil area and help stiffen the rear of the stock.it is possible to use a release agent on the whole mess so as to allow for removeal of the pad in the future.block the area behind the spacer so no steel bed compound gets around it,use modeling clay to shape to a taper the surfaces around the spacer and stock,use a good release agent,the stuff brownell's sells works good,or you can use pam,the non-stick cooking stuff,not the butter flavored,dry fit everything and when it looks good,compound the crap out of it.whatever you don't want to stick to the stock,remove it as soon as you can,the release agent on the outside will help with that.the spacer can be wood of metal,just something stiff enough that it will hold up.good luck.
 
Thanks for your help.This is the first time I've tried this on a sythetic stock and I wasn't expecting that gap.
You stated that the new pad holes would probably not line up with the stock holes.Would I be better off to cut a wood spacer that would completely close in the end of the stock and be flush with the outer edge?Then screwing the wood spacer to the factory holes should allow me to use a pad with almost any mounting hole locations,correct?
 
pad

if you can get a flush fit with a spacer than it is easier than using a bedding compound and allot cleaner also.than as you wrote,you would be able to use any pad because you would be able to screw right in to the spacer.just for holding power go ahead and screw the spacer into the stock holes,i hav'ent found a epoxy yet that will bond to the plastic stocks.let me know how this is going,if you need help just let me know
 
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