Recommend a NATO 7.62x51 or .308 Winn suppressor? (non-surplus)

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wacki

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If you were going to recommend a can for NATO rounds 7.62 x 51 or .308 winn... what would you recommend?


I made a typo in this thread. I'm kinda glad I did as I didn't know you needed a take apart can for surplus ammo. And now I'm waffling in my decision as I have nagants and other comm block rifles. But I'm still interested in a pure NATO suppressor.
 
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Down-scale .30 cal rounds?

wacki,

Not at all to hijack your thread and push it OT (I await forum members' feedback on your OP question eagerly), but does it make any sense to use a .308 Win/NATO 7.72x51mm suppressor with a mid-power .30 cal round such as 7.62x39mm Russian? Or is the difference in the amount of energy needing to be absorbed so great as to make a .308 Win/NATO 7.72x51mm suppressor wasteful and too expensive for a mid-power .30 cal round?
 
Bill_Rights,

Bigger rounds need bigger cans as well as stronger, heavier or more expensive (e.g. Inconel / Titanium) metals.

If you are shooting AK rounds I recommend getting a Liberty Mystic. Just make sure to re-thread your AK or you will get a baffle strike and lose your suppressor & tax stamp.

AK47s are infamous for crappy barrel threads.
 
take apart can for surplus ammo

Templar Tactical Firearms makes a Ti suppressor that disassembles. It's rated to ~ .300wm. I can't vouch for the suppressor as of yet because our benevolent gov has yet to deem me worthy of ownership, so ask me in a few months if it's any good...
 
wacki,

Not AK or clone of AK. I have a Ruger Mini-30 (Model 5854, M-30/20GBCPC, so-called "Tactical" version). I believe the threads on the muzzle for the stock flash hider are 5/8" x 24 threads/inch (tpi). I think the flash hider makes it louder, at least to bystanders, than the regular Mini-30 with straight muzzle/crown.

Yeh, by researching a couple of suppressor mfr web sites, incl. Mystic, I did pick up on the non-concentric threads causing baffles strikes on most AKs. I guess the Ruger Mini should be checked for that too.
 
take-apart can?

MtnCreek (and wacki),

I don't know that you need a take-apart can for poor-quality, fast-fouling ammo. For all ammo, the baffles in the can will eventually have to be cleaned. If you have a sealed can, you can still use a solution dip cleaning, ideally in a heated bath ultrasonic cleaner. That just means you need stainless steel or titanium (or non-corrodable) metal baffles and spacers, etc. parts inside the can. The cleaning solution and ultrasonic cavitation will mess up aluminum (or copper) baffles, though brass could be OK (but it's also heavy and nobody uses it).

Lyman has a perfect ultrasonic cleaner that you can get for sometimes under $300: Turbo Sonic 6000 I have one for other purposes, and it is great. Useable interior length of basket is 12". Lyman also sells a steel cleaning solution that should do the trick on SS or Ti baffles, but you should call the Lyman engineers. In any case, the cleaner tank itself will handle any cleaning solution.

The point is, for $300 for an ultrasonic cleaner and a bottle of solultion, you are wide open on the suppressors you can buy. Maybe cheaper overall. I am a little wary of user-assembled suppressors. A flake of crud, grain of sand, metal shaving, etc. in the wrong place and POOF, baffle strike and you're a hurtin' gator...


BTW, MtnCreek, I like that
http://www.templartacticalfirearms.com/shop/suppressors/archangel-30-cal-suppressor/ SWEET!
 
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A can that works on 308 would be acceptable for anything else that is less powerful including 300 whipser and 223 remington. They are only a little heavier than the smaller cans dedicated to the less powerful rounds.

I have never bothered to clean any of the silencers I built for center fire rifles. The high pressure gases tend to make the silencer self cleaning. I keep track of the weight the silencer gains over the years and thousands of rounds fired. So far they have only gained a few grams of weight; nothing to be concerned about.

I used 4130 steel for a few of my high powered rifle silencers and use a solvent/oil mix occasionally to rinse them out prior to storage to prevent rust, but it does little or nothing to clean them out. I have one 223 can that has some aluminum baffles in it. It gets heated enough on occasion to shoot out flames and has heated up enough to ruin the Gun Kote finish on it, but the baffles are only showing a slight amount of wear and it has gained very little weight from fouling.

Rimfire cans are another matter entirely. My 9mm and 22lr cans come apart for cleaning. I use cast 9mm, 7.62 Nagant and 22lr ammo in the 9mm can. The 22lr can would probably fill half way up with gunk within 10,000 rounds if I didn't take it apart every 500 rounds or so to scrap off the gunk.

Ranb
 
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Excellent info, Ranb! Good points. Weighing the can is a good measure, but just one more piece of equipment to own. (I guess some powder scales can measure up to a pound or so, as you would need to weigh a suppressor?)
 
Ranb,

That scale is pretty cool, for $60 or so. 0.1 gram resolution. Let's see... 1 gram = 15.4 grains, so 0.1 g = 1.5 grains, approx. That's good enough resolution for all but powder measures for reloading, I think.

wacki,

In retrospect, I am sorry. I really did drag your thread OT. Mea culpa! :(

What is your present thinking on a .308 Win can? How much were you willing to spend, not counting stamp?
 
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