Recommendations for Gun Safes

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I have a Canon fire resistant safe and it has served me well. Keep in mind the "residential" safes are only "smash and grab' safe. Anyone could gain access to the contents of your safe in about 20 minutes with a dremel type tool unless you have a commercial unit costing over $3500. A professional could get in quicker.
 
There are safes available that have ratings for both security and resistance to break-in. I think most "gun safes" are just that- storage boxes for your guns. Like anything, price detrmines what you get to a large degree.
 
Someone somewhere told me or I read that if your safe provides fire resiatance that there could be a pretty good tax deduction on such a purchase. That was a couple years ago-check with your tax person-and would someone please post details.=-maybe a taxperson reads these??
 
I don't think whatever safe (small or high grade) you've got will stop a motived thief, it is just a matter of time. More time you give, more chance a thief can steal your safe contents.

Consider an installation of fire detector very close to your safe, so if one guy use a torch cutting (I read most of the safe will not resist) your fire alarm will go off, bringing the fire department on your location, ad more gadget surveillances if you can, etc...
 
The bigger the better to start - you will always need more room no matter if you think it will hold what you got now.

I recommend going with the fire protection also just for the peace of mind.
 
Someone somewhere told me or I read that if your safe provides fire resiatance that there could be a pretty good tax deduction on such a purchase.

This is true if you use a fire rated document safe or filing cabinet. You may be able to cheat and claim your gun safe is a fire rated safe, but in truth, it's a gun safe, and not suitable for the deduction.

Consider an installation of fire detector very close to your safe, so if one guy use a torch cutting (I read most of the safe will not resist) your fire alarm will go off

I can almost guarantee you that anybody bringing a torch to attack a safe has already bypassed your alarm system. Cutting torches seem to be a tool used by professionals more so than your average burglar.

Gun safes are much more likely to be attacked by common hand and power tools, and many will be easily defeated. Crowbars, saws with steel blades, and hammers are your biggest threats against a gun safe.

Most residential burglars aren't carrying 4' pry bars with them, so make sure you don't leave yours sitting next to the gun safe. A criminal is more likely to use tools found at your house then he is to bring his own.



I don't think whatever safe (small or high grade) you've got will stop a motived thief, it is just a matter of time. More time you give, more chance a thief can steal your safe contents.

That's true to an extent. Safes buy time against threat. The better the safe, the more time you buy. You can't use the argument that "eventually they'll get into it" because there's a big difference between 5 minutes and 5 hours.

The first step anyone should take when safe shopping is to determine the threat level they face along with the value of the contents. You then buy a safe that offers you that protection. Price, paint, warranties, and other factors should only play a minor role in that decision.
 
a1abdj, I was reading something about a ratio contents value/% investment you should put in your safe. Is it perhaps, a possibility to evaluate how much we need to spend in a safe.
 
Roadrunner;

Yes, there are suggestions as to the contents value/vs cost for safes. However, they tend to be meaningless unless & until you determine the threat level to your valuables.

In other words; there are areas of this country that putting $50,000.00 worth of contents in a $5000.00 'B' rated safe, would be reasonable. There are other areas that that would be rather unreasonable.

900F
 
It is certainly true that the risks vary across the country as CB900F mentioned above. Insurance companies do a lot of research on this, and are more than happy to dictate safe requirments to their insured.

We usually use a rough figure of 10% safe/cash ratio. If you're keeping physical goods in the safe, you can spend less. Around here, a brand new$9,000 TRTL-30x6 would be good up to around $300,000 in assets. You could buy a used version of that safe in the $5,000 range.

The problem you have applying this to gun safes is that the purchase price isn't directly related to the security. The fancy paint, warranty, interior, and brand recognition is figured into the price, but providing you zero protection.
 
Actually my ratio is: 1 safe/ 4x the price of the safe in contents. Basically 25% investment to secure that, but I should eventually take an insurance to be on the good track. I am not living in a bad area, but extra care doesn't hurt.
 
For the Safe Dealers...

I need an RSC to hold 8 rifles, 5 handguns, several boxes of ammo, 2 cameras, papers, jewelry, etc. The contents' value is in the $7-8,000 range. I'm more concerned with security than fire protection, because the papers will be in a fire box within the safe. It will be in a closet with a deadbolt and security hinges on it. My budget is $1,000-$1,500. I want something that will defeat the guy who learned how to bust into cheap safes in the joint. Could you rank these into No Good, Too Good, and One of These:

Graffunder
Brown
Heritage
Champion
Fort Knox
Browning
Granite (Winchester)
Cannon
AmSec
Fortress
Patriot
Diamondback
Security Products
Liberty
Gardall

Whew, I think I named them all, except Sentry and Stack-on! Granted, some of these may be "economy" brands made by another on the list. Feel free to add your own.
 
Jack;

Brown & Graffunder are true safes, not RSC's. Either will exceed your budget, though they offer excellent protection. FWIW, I sell Graffunder.

AMSEC is the largest maker of safes & RSC's in America. They produce, or import, everything from TL rated safes to tin boxes. Make sure you know what you're getting if you buy an AMSEC. Not that the company itself is anything but reputable, but the dealer may not give you the correct, entire, and whole picture without considerable questioning by yourself.

Fort Knox: Protection is available that's above the average RSC. However, it's still not a true safe and the price difference from the top end of their line to a real safe is minimal. That's my opinion & I'm stickin' to it.

Of the rest: Buy the unit that gives you the features you need at the least price, there's no substantial difference in protection.

900F
 
If you guys like Liberty Safes, take a look at Champion. They are similar to the Liberty line, but offer better fire protection at longer times at higher temps. Champion is another Utah safe company and they rock.
We've dropped the Liberty line and now deal exclusively with Champion.
 
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