Recommendations on springs for Ruger MK III

[LightningMan]

Hello to the forum, I bought a Ruger MK III Hunter model and really like it. I even mounted a 2-6 power scope on it. I'm going to use it mostly for indoor target shooting, but the only thing I don't like about it is the trigger pull, too stiff so it needs a little lightening. I'm thinking replace the trigger spring but which one to get and will the spring kits for the MK II's from Brownells work? Any recommendations would be welcome, thanks LM.

 

[gb6491]

Rather than new springs, get the Volquartsen target sear. Their extractor is a desirable upgrade as well.
Regards,
Greg

 

[gb6491]

BTW, Volquartsen sells the spring kit as well. They currently have some cosmetic blemished triggers in their bargain bin; the triggers come with a plunger spring.
Regards,
Greg

 

[Drail]

Use caution when installing "drop in" sears and hammers. I have done trigger work on Ruger .22 pistols and it is possible to get a better trigger the problem is the pin holes in the frame do not seem to be held to very tight tolerances. If the sear and hammer are pins are wallowing around in the pin holes it really doesn't matter what kind of sear or hammer you install. It might work and it might be be a waste of time. The pins need to be sized to fit the holes and the hammer and sear will need to be reamed to that pin size. I've never been able to remove ALL of the creep in these guns. New springs can lighten it up but it won't really change the feel of the trigger.

 

[gb6491]

The Volquartsen parts have a very good reputation in the Ruger community, for improving the trigger on these pistols, but you are correct in that there are pistols out there that might need more involved work.
In regards to slack, I've had good results by stoning a slight break away or "escape" angle (much like what is done on 1911s) on the sear.
Regards,
Greg

 

[JackOfAllTradesMasterAtNone]

I am not a gunsmith...

I have worked a few MK pistols. I'll say that the Volquartsen accurizer/trigger kit is worthy. But my preference is just the VQ hammer, but only because it is lighter and affects timing and has a better sear notch/angle. I leave the factory sear spring (with a little bend mod installed backwards), and the Trapper brand reduced power hammer/main spring. (WaHoo! That's a real fun spring to change. Be careful.) Then I polish the right side flat of the disconnector. Polish the inside of the right side of the frame, and the sides of the pivot points of the hammer and the sear, the right side of the pivot point of the trigger and the disconnector surface that slides on the trigger. This usually yeilds a trigger of less than 2 pounds. The VQ complete kit will yeild something near one pound if you also do the polishing at key points.

I do not like the newer MKIII trigger, but prefer the older VQ aluminum MKII flat front trigger or the Clark steel trigger that requires fitting. (And it appears the Clark design changes from time to time.)

For the MKII series pistols I've drilled three at the front of the trigger guard to install an externally adjustable pretravel trigger set screw. My triggers on my MKII's are just as good as any Hammerli or Pardini target/BullsEye pistol.

Learn how it all works though. Playing with them, it's pretty easy to make them go full auto.

-Steve

 

[LightningMan]

Hello, I just wanted to say I went and ordered the Volquartsen Custom Ltd. complete (trigger, accurizing, & targer hammer) kit. I installed it today, after being a little apprehensive about doing it because the instructions just seemed to complex and hard to understand but after going to the web site and viewing the process done (about 3 times) I got up the courage to do it. It took about 45 min. and the only fitting I had to do was file the width of the sear down, as it was about .010 wider than the original one, so it would not fit in the frame where the pin went through. Anyway I got it done and every thing seems to work correctly but going to the range soon to try it out. The trigger feels really good after I used the adjusting screws to get it where I wanted it. Thanks for the advice, LM.
PS. the only part of the kit I not sure I like is the slide release as its larger and sticks out like a sore thumb. So anyone know if putting the old slide release would make any differance? It doesn't seem as if it would, but want to know if anyone as done their's that way?